It was serendipity when Ankit invited me to Sikkim for its first-ever Rural Tourism Meet. I have a deep appreciation for such experiences, so my husband, Vikram, and I eagerly packed our bags to visit Uttarey—one of the remotest yet most enchanting corners of the state.
Located a five-hour drive from Gangtok, Uttarey serves as a base camp for adventure tourism, surrounded by hilltops, waterfalls, frothing rivers, evergreen forests, and medicinal herbs. It remains largely untouched by commercialisation, making it an ideal escape for nature lovers. Beyond hotels and resorts, three picturesque homestay villages—the Bandukey Limboo Tribal Heritage Village, the Sherpa Gaon Tribal Heritage Village, and the Ferek Lepcha Tribal Heritage Village—offer visitors a glimpse into the region’s rich cultural heritage.
Reaching any homestay in Uttarey required a trek of anywhere between five to 25 minutes—an effort that only added to its charm. The homes, lodged in lush greenery, offered breathtaking 360-degree views of the mountain ranges from Kanchenjunga to Narsingh. It was truly spectacular.
At Totola Homestay, we were welcomed by Indra and Niren, the warmest hosts I’ve ever met. Indra, an exceptional cook and caretaker, is also a respected leader in her community, having even run for local elections. She made us feel truly special. Niren, a schoolteacher in Uttarey, has an inspiring story. When he first arrived, the local school had barely any students. Under his guidance, the school has flourished, drawing students from private institutions in the vicinity—a fact he shared with quiet pride. Their children, Kunsang Dolma and Chirin were utterly charming. On our last night, they sang beautiful Nepalese songs for us, turning the evening into a heartfelt celebration filled with music, dance, and feasting. I even tried the local millet brew, thongba—it didn’t quite give me a high, but we shared a few hearty laughs over it.
Vikram embarked on a five-hour trek to Phoktey Dara, starting from Chewa Bhanjyang at 3,000 m. He climbed a steep 600 m to a vantage point where one foot stood in Nepal and the other in India, offering an unparalleled panoramic view. From this spot, trekkers can see some of the highest peaks in the world—Mt. Everest, Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Makalu, and Mt. Lhotse in the west; and Mt. Khangchendzonga, Mt. Pandim, Mt. Kabru, Mt. Narsing, and Mt. Rathong in the east. Along the way, he was accompanied by yaks and Pahadi dogs, adding to the rugged beauty of the landscape.
Beyond trekking, Uttarey offers a host of other attractions. The Kagyu Gompa, a revered monastery perched atop a forested hill, is a serene retreat and an important site for locals. The spectacular Singshore Bridge, one of Asia’s highest suspension bridges, spans a deep gorge and offers breathtaking views. Nearby, the Mainbass Waterfall cascades through dense greenery, while the Limboo traditional villages of Sopakha provide insight into indigenous life.
The Sikkim Government’s inaugural Rural Tourism Summit was a brilliantly organised event, bringing together 85 participants from across the region. Despite the rain, the enthusiasm was palpable as we listened to the Hon’ble Tourism Minister, T.T. Bhutia; Tourism Nodal Officer, Neeraj Pradhan; and National Tourism Expert, Ankit Sood. The experience was nothing short of exhilarating.
One of the oldest monasteries in Sikkim, Kagyu Monastery offers a serene atmosphere and stunning traditional murals that hold great religious significance. The monastery sits atop a hill, just a 10-minute walk from Titanic Park, providing visitors with a peaceful retreat and panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. Though the original structure has been renovated, its spiritual essence and historical charm remain intact.
This memorial park honours climbers Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary. Though the road leading up to the park is slightly rough, the breathtaking views of the Kanchenjunga range make the journey worthwhile. On a clear day, the vantage point offers a mesmerising panorama of the mountains. The park features statues of the two mountaineers, serving as a tribute to their monumental Everest ascent.
An intriguing landmark in Uttarey, the Titanic Park features a building shaped like the famous ship. It is a popular photo spot near the main market, though the structure remains closed to visitors. The unique design makes it a distinctive and quirky stop while exploring the town.
Located about two km from Uttarey town, the trout farm is home to large, well-maintained ponds teeming with thousands of trout. The surrounding area is peaceful, making it an excellent spot for a relaxing visit. A river flows nearby, adding to the tranquillity of the setting. For those who enjoy nature and aquaculture, this farm offers a fascinating glimpse into local fish farming practices.
A hidden gem near Uttarey, the Mainbass Waterfall is a stunning cascade that can be reached on foot. Situated about seven km from town, the trek to the falls takes visitors through a scenic forested trail. The journey begins on the westbound road from Uttarey leading to the trout farm, followed by a five km walk through the woods. Camping near the waterfall is also an option for those looking to spend more time immersed in nature.
The nearest airport is Bagdogra Airport (IXB). Take a taxi or bus from Bagdogra to Siliguri (30 minutes). From the SNT Bus Stand, shared jeeps to Uttarey or Jorethang are available. If no direct jeeps are available, travel to Jorethang first and switch transport there.
The nearest railway station is New Jalpaiguri (NJP). From NJP, travel to Siliguri SNT Bus Stand, where shared jeeps to Uttarey or Jorethang are available.
Uttarey enjoys pleasant weather from February to October, with summer temperatures ranging from 13 to 26 degrees Celsius, making it an ideal escape from the heat. The season is perfect for trekking and mountaineering. However, July to September sees heavy rainfall, making travel risky due to landslides. Winters (November to March) bring cold temperatures and snowfall, especially in higher-altitude areas like Pelling and Yuksom, though trekking is not advisable.
