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In the early 1970s, Italian explorer Count Guido Monzino arrived in the hills above Phaplu with the kind of ambition that defined his Everest expeditions. His 1973 climb was famously extravagant, backed by thousands of porters and supplies that ranged from silver cutlery to leather furniture.
But it was here, away from the summit, that he decided to leave a more permanent mark. On land belonging to his Sherpa companion’s family, Monzino funded and helped build a home that blended European eccentricity with Himalayan sensibility.
What emerged was not a hotel but a gathering place. Early visitors were mountaineers, wanderers, and thinkers. People came not for polished luxury but for conversation, firelit evenings, and the pull of the mountains.
The house is located just above Phaplu, in the lower stretches of Solu Khumbu. This part of the Himalayas feels closer to everyday life. Fields step down the slopes, pine trees edge the ridgelines, and prayer flags cut across the sky in bright lines of colour.
On clear mornings, you can spot distant peaks, their outlines faint but unmistakable. A short walk leads to Chiwong Gompa, set on a cliff where monks move through their routines as they have for years.
Phaplu still carries the memory of older Everest journeys. Before Lukla took over, this was one of the ways in. Even now, small planes land here, and travellers pass through without much fuss. The pace stays steady. You walk, you pause, you keep going.
The first thing that catches your eye is colour. Deep reds, ochres, and golds run across the walls. Painted figures look down from every corner. These are thangkas, done by a Sherpa artist when the house was first built, and they still shape the mood of every room.
Then there is the furniture. Some of it came up the mountain with Monzino himself. Leather armchairs sit close to the fireplace, worn just enough to show their age. Heavy wooden tables carry scratches and marks from years of use. Bookshelves hold old expedition stories, the kind you pick up and keep reading longer than planned.
There are only a few rooms, each with its own character. Thick walls keep the chill out, carved windows frame the valley, and rugs soften the floors. Nothing feels staged. It feels used, in the best way.
Meals arrive without hurry. Much of what you eat comes from nearby farms. You sit down, share food, talk, and stay at the table longer than you meant to. Evenings often drift toward the fireplace, where conversations stretch and time slips by unnoticed.
If Monzino built the house, Edmund Hillary made it his own.
He spent years in this region after climbing Everest, working with Sherpa communities on schools, hospitals, and basic infrastructure. When he came through this part of Solu Khumbu, he stayed here often.
It became a place he returned to between commitments. Somewhere familiar. Somewhere, he could sit back without ceremony. Over time, he began calling it his “happy place,” and the name stuck.
People who remember those years still speak of his visits. Not as grand arrivals, but as someone coming back to a place he knew well.
The house went through a difficult phase during Nepal’s civil conflict. The family left, and for a while, the rooms stayed empty. Dust gathered, and the future felt uncertain.
Later, the same Sherpa family came back and began restoring it. They repaired what needed fixing and kept everything else as it was. The paintings remained. The furniture stayed. The feeling of the place did not change much.
Today, it carries all those layers. You can sense the years it has seen, without needing anyone to explain them.
Two explorers came here from very different worlds and kept returning.
Spend a few days here, and you begin to understand why.
How To Visit: Fly from Kathmandu to Phaplu. The flight is short but memorable, with the runway appearing suddenly between hills. From there, it is a quick drive or walk to the house. Some travellers arrive on foot, following older trails through the region. A few come by helicopter, tracing the mountains before dropping into the valley.
The Stay: The house has only a few rooms, so stays are limited. Many visits are arranged through travel planners, and sometimes groups take over the entire place. That keeps things personal.
What To Do: Once you are there, the day finds its own rhythm. You might walk to a monastery, spend time reading, or simply sit outside watching the light shift across the hills. There is a yoga space, a library, and plenty of corners where you can be by yourself.
The house also stays closely tied to the local community. Work here supports nearby families, farms, and small initiatives in the region, continuing a connection that goes back decades.
1. Where is Happy House in Nepal?
Happy House is located above Phaplu in the Solu Khumbu region, a quieter part of the Everest area.
2. Who built Happy House?
The house was built in the 1970s by Guido Monzino on land belonging to a Sherpa family.
3. Why is Happy House famous?
It became well known because Edmund Hillary stayed here frequently and referred to it as his “happy place.”
4. Can you stay at Happy House today?
Yes, the house has been restored by the original Sherpa family and offers a limited number of rooms for travellers seeking an offbeat Himalayan stay.
5. How do you reach Happy House Nepal?
Travellers can fly from Kathmandu to Phaplu, followed by a short walk or drive. Some also arrive via trekking routes in the region.
