A porcupine caterpillar stuck to my left leg, and Lokam, who drove with me to Ganga Lake in Itanagar, sprang up with a loud cry. “This is Yalañ Pombo. It will suck your blood.” The next few minutes were spent plucking away the creature that had half done its job. It left behind a battle scar, and drops of blood had painted my leg. This was one of many things that didn't go as planned during a memorable visit to Arunachal Pradesh’s capital, Itanagar, with the Ministry of Development of the North Eastern Region (MDoNER).
As soon as I landed at the Donyi Polo Airport near Itanagar, I learnt that my visit to Ziro Valley had been cancelled due to landslides and heavy rains that had destroyed the route from the capital. Rains in Arunachal are like a meticulous thief. They do the job without letting you know that it ever happened. One moment it would be pouring like cats and dogs, and the next, you won’t even know that it ever rained.
So, with a cancelled trip to Ziro, the next three days were spent exploring everything that Itanagar had to offer.
First Impressions: Some Surprises And More Surprises
If you ask anyone in Delhi about Arunachal Pradesh, they would speak with fondness but also distance, as if it were a land separated not only by miles but by culture, language, and lifestyle.
However, one of the most surprising facts about the people of Arunachal is that everyone can speak Hindi as fluently as someone in North India can. “We had no option but to learn the language that would have kept us connected to the mainland,” explained Lokam.
The lush greenery, clean air, and kind locals, however, were no surprise.
En route to the hotel, I decided to stop by a fruit market because I believe sabzi markets are the best introduction to a city. I asked for coconut water, expecting it to be much cheaper than the summer rates elsewhere. INR 120. Surprised, yet again. When I asked why, the vendor said that in Itanagar, most fruits and vegetables are imported from Guwahati.
That left me not just surprised but curious. Despite the required resources and the conditions, why was the state relying on another for its fruits and vegetables? Locals attributed it to the youth's laziness and lethargy and their reluctance to work on farms.
I took my question to K.T. Parnaik, the honourable governor of Arunachal Pradesh, who assured me during a meeting that the government is working to expand cultivation of kiwi, mandarin orange, jackfruit, pineapple, and avocado in the state. This will help them not just meet their own requirements but also export their produce to the rest of the country and even overseas.
Chronic diseases like cancer are a battle that most households are fighting. Despite a population as small as a little over half a million, Arunachal remains one of the largest contributors of stomach and liver cancer patients in India. Even under such alarming circumstances, the state has no single diagnostic centre where PET CT scans can be performed on patients.
However, the upcoming State Cancer Institute in Itanagar comes as a promising response to the situation. Led by Dr Sam Tsering, the project is expected to be completed by the end of 2027 and will be the first of its kind in Itanagar.
Tourism was another matter of discussion with Parnaik. Citing the new tourism policy, launched by the state last year in April, he said, “The government is making concerted efforts towards developing the right infrastructure for niche, adventure, culinary, and spiritual tourism in the state.” A glimpse of that effort can be experienced in Itanagar, the capital and usually the first stop in the state.
A Tourist’s Guide Through Itanagar
Walk Around The Jawahar Lal Nehru State Museum
Other than homes and markets, museums are a great entry point into understanding a state and its people. And when I knew that Itanagar is home to one of the two state museums in Northeast India, there was no way I was passing it .
That aside, for a state as culturally diverse and historically rich as Arunachal Pradesh, the Jawahar Lal Nehru museum in Itanagar is a great attempt at bringing the stories, textiles, symbols, and beliefs of the 26 major tribes under one roof.
Divided into sections across two floors, an interesting section is dedicated to Tapi Mra, the first person from Arunachal Pradesh to scale Mount Everest.
The museum is only 4-5 kms from Itanagar’s centre, and if you are an Indian national, the ticket costs INR 10, and INR 75 if you are a foreign national.
A Walk To The Ganga Lake
A must-visit in Itanagar is the Ganga Lake. As you enter, through thick foliage, you will catch a glimpse of the lake. That is just the start. The spot that gives you the best view of it lies 2 km away. To traverse the route with ease, ensure you put on your sports shoes. You will be tempted to stop on many occasions to pull out your camera and capture the beauty of the lake, but ensure that you look around for a porcupine caterpillar. Don’t let it come close.
Once you are on the other side, the experiences are many. You can take a boat ride on the lake if you arrive before 5 PM. Dress in traditional Nyishi, Apatani, or Monpa attire to get clicked against the scenic view of the lake and the greenery. Finally, don’t forget to step inside the models of traditional homes of different tribes from across Arunachal Pradesh.
Climb Up The Ita Fort
The city of Itanagar derives its name from this historic landmark. My suggestion would be to go with a local who would share legends from the Ita Fort because otherwise, there is not a lot to do during your visit. My guide sum driver Lokam spoke to me about the legend of Ayamatta and Mayamatta that also lends the place a haunted status among many city dwellers.
As a first-time visitor, I thought the government could do lots at the fort, including starting a sound and light show, setting up eateries, and conducting paid guided tours through the monument.
Shopping
If you are looking to explore and purchase artefacts, jewellery, and attire closely associated with tribes of Arunachal Pradesh, the choices are not many in Itanagar. The Apatani Heritage Souvenir Shopping Complex, which is located at the Dree Ground in the Papu Nallah area of Itanagar, gives shopping opportunities. The Khinam Fashion House, run by popular singer and fashion designer Taba Yall Nabam, is another destination perfect for silk wear and traditional attire shopping.
Where To Eat In Itanagar?
Being the capital, Itanagar is a hotpot of diverse communities and that reflects in the food scene of the city. From Monpa eateries to Nyishi restaurants and karaoke bars, if you are a foodie, there is a lot to explore in the capital. I enjoyed a traditional Monpa meal at the Monyul restaurant that is run by Rinchin Tashi. Do try their millet momo and makai thupka if you get a spot.
The city is also home to plenty of karaoke bars that you must attend on a Friday or Saturday evening. Many play jazz, some play Bollywood, and others play traditional music. Alchemy, Gravity Monkey, and 13 Old Spirit are some in Ganga Market that are worth the visit.
Alcohol in Itanagar is not just cheap but also available in every second shop. A bottle of beer costs approximately INR 60. My suggestion would be to visit the vegetable market to spot earthworms, lai patta, bhut jalokia, and traditional wines that are intrinsic to the state’s culinary fabric.
FAQs
Q1. What are the best places to visit in Itanagar?
Some of the top attractions include Ganga Lake, Ita Fort, the Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum, local markets, and nearby river and hill viewpoints.
Q2. Is Itanagar worth visiting in Arunachal Pradesh?
Yes. Itanagar offers a mix of tribal culture, natural scenery, historical landmarks, local cuisine, and a slower pace of travel compared to more crowded destinations.
Q3. How many days are enough for Itanagar?
A 2–3 day trip is usually enough to explore Ganga Lake, Ita Fort, the Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum, markets, restaurants, and nearby viewpoints.
Q4. What can I eat in Itanagar?
Itanagar has a diverse food scene, including Monpa meals, millet momo, makai thupka, traditional tribal dishes, local vegetables, and regional wines.
Q5. When is the best time to visit Itanagar?
The post-monsoon and winter months are generally the best for sightseeing, though the monsoon season offers lush greenery and dramatic landscapes.
