All About The Old-School Cabin Eateries Of Kolkata

A quintessential part of Kolkata's culinary scene, some of the cabins date back more than a century. They have a unique atmosphere and food ethos. Some have been featured in Bangla films, and Rick Stein's BBC programme
The famed cutlets of Dilkhusha Cabin served with some salad and kasundi, the Bangla mustard sauce
The famed cutlets of Dilkhusha Cabin served with some salad and kasundi, the Bangla mustard sauce@foodiebongsomrrita/Instagram

If you are exploring the culinary scene in Kolkata, you must not miss out on the famous "cabin culture". The term "cabin" refers to partitions that were originally created for families to sit privately in restaurants. Cabin restaurants originated almost one and a half centuries ago when society was much more conservative, and respectable women were not meant to be seen in public. The partitioned and curtained cabins enabled women to eat out with their families or partners hidden from the public view. They were also popular among Kolkata's intelligentsia and revolutionaries during the freedom struggle, and later during the Naxal era. Many have been the setting for scenes in Bangla films.

Many cabin restaurants still remain, though the essential cabin atmosphere is missing. They are mostly small, hole-in-the-wall joints, but fairly clean. The cabin menu features Kolkata's famous chops, cutlets, and kabiraji—remnants of the Raj era. These dishes are served with the mandatory "salad"—sliced cucumber, carrot, and onions. And some kasundi, Bengal's unique mustard sauce. You can also avail of plates of chicken curry and Kosha Mangsho with plain parathas, and the famed Mughlai parathas.

Dilkhusha Cabin

The iconic Dilkusha Cabin has been in operation for more than a century, and its popularity has remained steady. The restaurant is frequently visited by college students and attracts a considerable number of patrons every day. Previously, the eatery was a famous cabin restaurant, but it removed its six cabins in 2011. Nowadays, the restaurant also offers more conventional dishes, such as Doi Chicken and vegetable cutlets. Located on MG Road, it has had the pleasure of welcoming distinguished guests like Kazi Nazrul Islam and Ganesh Pyne.

Address: 86/4,86, Mahatma Gandhi Rd, College Square West, College Square, Kolkata, West Bengal 700009

Basanta Cabin

@passportandpizza/Instagram

Nestled in the midst of the legendary bookstores of Kolkata's 'Boi Para,' or College Street, in North Kolkata, lies a hidden gem that has been serving up delectable cabin dishes since 1890. Frequented by iconic Bengali superstars Uttam Kumar and Basanta Chowdhury, this place still entices both regulars and passers-by with its mouth-watering aroma of its kabiraji cutlets and Basanta Special Thin Mughlai Paratha and Aloo Dum. Step inside and indulge in a truly authentic culinary experience that has stood the test of time.

Address: 3, College St, near medical college, Lalbajar, College Square

Anadi Cabin

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Established in 1925, Anadi Cabin is located near the heritage structure of New Market. Over the years, it has been visited by many notable personalities associated with the Bengali film industry, and several films have also been shot here.

Like other cabins, the menu at Anadi is a mix of Bengali dishes with Raj-era influences, showcasing the culinary heritage of Kolkata
Like other cabins, the menu at Anadi is a mix of Bengali dishes with Raj-era influences, showcasing the culinary heritage of Kolkata@atrichakraborty93/Instagram

Anadi Cabin is well-known for its delicious Mughlai Paratha, which is a square-shaped paratha stuffed with eggs and sometimes minced meat. The Mughlai Paratha is made by stuffing flattened dough with crushed peanuts, raisins, finely chopped carrots, and green chilies, all whisked into freshly cracked eggs. The stuffed dough is then shallow-fried and served hot. Interestingly, the Mughlai Paratha is similar to the martabak of Penang, matabaq of the Middle East, the palata of Myanmar, and the baida roti of Mumbai.

Address: H972+8JF, SN Banerjee Road, New Market Area, Dharmatala, Taltala, Kolkata, West Bengal 700072

Allen Kitchen

This cabin, which has been featured in Rick Stein's India (BBC Books), is renowned for its Special Prawn Cutlet. The dish consists of a complete butterflied tiger prawn coated in batter and deep-fried in pure ghee. The interiors of the cabin are charming and atmospheric, with old fans hanging from a wooden ceiling. The eatery was originally set up by a Scottish gentleman named Allen, who later passed it on to Jibankrishna Saha. The restaurant is currently run by Saha's grandsons.

Address: 40, Metro, 1, Jatindra Mohan Ave, Girish Park, Sovabazar, Darjipara, Shobhabazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700006

Fern Hotel and Restaurant 

Located on the busy Rashbehari Avenue in South Kolkata, Fern Hotel and Restaurant has managed to retain the iconic cabin look with its signature blue hued booth cabin partitions. There was a time when there was no better way to end a shopping spree at Gariahat than with some mouth-watering chop-cutlets and tea at Fern. Its legendary interiors have even made appearances in Bengali films, such as Kaal Purush.

Address: 193, Rash Behari Avenue,Ballygunge, Kolkata, West Bengal 700019

Mitra Cafe

Mitra Café is an iconic eatery and one of the few cabins with other branches. Serving delicious food since 1920, its name means 'Friends Café' in English, and perfectly encapsulates the warm and welcoming atmosphere you'll find here. Their brain chop and mutton cutlet are legendary, and it's no surprise that the queue outside the restaurant has never diminished. The kabirajis are undeniably scrumptious and have earned Mitra Café a loyal following over the years, including Bengali superstar Uttam Kumar and singer-actor Anjan Dutt. Whether you choose to sit in the traditional outdoor space with its old wooden furniture or in the fully air-conditioned indoor space, you'll be surrounded by the rich history and charm of this beloved establishment.

Address: 47, Jatindra Mohan Ave, Raja Nabakrishna Street, Sovabazar, Shobhabazar, Kolkata, West Bengal 700005

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