Nestled in the rugged mountains of northeastern Georgia, Tusheti remains one of the country’s most remote and enchanting regions. Here, time slows amid soaring peaks and windswept valleys, where ancient stone towers punctuate the landscape and isolated villages cling to age-old traditions. Life in Tusheti is intimately tied to the rhythms of nature, with shepherds tending their flocks on alpine pastures much as their ancestors did centuries ago.
This is a land of breathtaking beauty and enduring heritage, where access is as challenging as the terrain is majestic—a place where the past is not just remembered, but lived. One of the must-visit places in Tusheti is Omalo, a village nestled in Georgia’s remote Tusheti region. Accessible only for a few months each year because of heavy snowfall and harsh winter conditions, Omalo offers a rare glimpse into a timeless mountain way of life.
Perched at an altitude of 1,880 m, Omalo is the gateway to Georgia’s remote Tusheti region. Reaching the village is an adventure in itself—via the formidable Abano Pass, a 70-kilometre dirt road that twists through the Caucasus mountains and is considered one of the most dangerous roads in the world. The pass is typically open only from mid-June to October, depending on weather conditions, cutting Omalo off for much of the year.
Omalo holds deep historical and cultural significance. Its traditional Tushetian architecture—centuries-old stone houses and fortified towers—reflects a way of life shaped by isolation and resilience. The imposing Keselo Fortress, located in Upper Omalo, once served as a strategic refuge for locals during periods of conflict, and today stands as a powerful symbol of the region's past.
The remote village is also a cultural hub, known for preserving ancient traditions and hosting the annual Tushetian festival, which celebrates the region’s customs, music, and cuisine. Omalo has seen a modest but growing influx of tourism in recent years, helping to support local livelihoods and fuel efforts to preserve its fragile cultural landscape. The village is divided into Upper and Lower Omalo: Upper Omalo is famed for its traditional architecture and historical landmarks, while Lower Omalo, more recently developed, offers guesthouses and modest tourist infrastructure. However, challenges remain, including water shortages and waste management.
Though remote and accessible only during a short summer window, Omalo offers a rich array of experiences for travellers willing to make the journey.
Perched dramatically on a hill overlooking Upper Omalo, Keselo Fortress is a striking complex of medieval watchtowers that once provided protection from invaders. These towers, restored in recent years, offer sweeping views of the Tushetian valleys and a window into the region’s tumultuous past. It’s a must-see for those interested in Tusheti’s defensive architecture and local history.
Nestled within the Keselo Fortress complex, the Ethnographic Museum is small but deeply informative. It showcases traditional Tushetian life through artefacts, clothing, household items, and tools used by past generations. The Georgian museum is a great starting point for understanding the unique culture and resilience of the Tusheti people.
Just a short hike or drive from Omalo lies Shenako, a peaceful village famed for its well-preserved stone homes and the only active Orthodox Christian church in Tusheti—an elegant wooden structure that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding landscape. Shenako is the perfect spot for travellers seeking a quieter, reflective experience.
Often described as the jewel of Tusheti, Dartlo was recently restored and now listed as a protected cultural heritage site. Its terraced stone houses, slate roofs, and medieval towers make it one of the most photogenic villages in the region. Dartlo is accessible via a scenic hike or drive from Omalo and serves as a gateway to more remote parts of Tusheti.
Further east of Dartlo lies Dzveli Diklo, an abandoned village of great historical significance. With its haunting beauty and crumbling stone structures, it offers an evocative glimpse into the region’s past. The journey there, through narrow trails and wild landscapes, is a highlight for adventurous travellers.
Omalo also serves as a popular base for trekking in the Greater Caucasus, most notably the Omalo to Shatili route, a multi-day hike that traverses some of the wildest and most scenic terrain in Georgia. Whether drawn by history, culture, or adventure, visitors to Omalo find themselves immersed in a world where the past and present coexist against a backdrop of awe-inspiring natural beauty.
Omalo is the main hub for trekking in Tusheti. Short hikes to Dartlo, Shenako, and Diklo offer a taste of the region, while more ambitious routes—like the multi-day Omalo to Shatili trek into Khevsureti—test the skills of experienced hikers. These trails lead through untouched wilderness, high mountain passes, and ancient villages.
For a more traditional experience, explore Tusheti’s meadows, ridges, and forests on horseback. Local guides offer multi-day horse treks that follow old shepherd routes, allowing you to see the landscape the way locals have for centuries.
Whether you arrive by vehicle or trek part of the route, Abano Pass itself is an experience. At over 2,800 m above sea level, it’s one of the highest drivable roads in the Caucasus and offers jaw-dropping views along a thrilling and often nerve-wracking route.
Covering over 80,000 hectares, Tusheti National Park is a sanctuary of biodiversity and rugged beauty. From alpine meadows and dense forests to remote ridges, the park is ideal for hiking, wildlife spotting, or simply soaking in the unspoiled natural environment.
On your way to or from Tusheti, consider stopping in Kakheti, Georgia’s famed wine region. A wine tour makes a perfect complement to your Tushetian adventure, offering a taste of Georgia’s ancient winemaking traditions and sun-drenched vineyards.
The region is typically cut off from the rest of the country from October to May, with the road opening in mid-May or early June and closing again in late September or early October. The best time to visit is during the summer months, from June to September, when the weather is more stable and the landscape is vibrant with wildflowers.
Reaching Omalo is an adventure in itself. The closest major transport hubs are Tbilisi International Airport (TBS) for international air travel and Tbilisi Central Railway Station for domestic rail connections. From Tbilisi, the journey continues overland into the high mountains of the northeast.
By Car
The most common route to Omalo begins in Telavi, a town in the Kakheti region, reachable from Tbilisi by road. From Telavi, the drive to Omalo takes approximately 3 to 5 hours in a 4WD vehicle. The journey includes navigating the notorious Abano Pass—at over 2,800 metres, it is the highest drivable mountain pass in the Caucasus. The road is unpaved, narrow, and often treacherous, requiring an experienced driver and good weather conditions. The pass is generally open from mid-June to early October.
By Helicopter
During winter and early spring, road access is completely cut off due to heavy snow. The only way to reach Omalo during these months is by helicopter, with limited services available—usually organised for locals or essential travel.
In Omalo, accommodation is mostly limited to charming guesthouses and family-run stays, reflecting the village’s remote, highland character. These offer warm Georgian hospitality and an authentic window into local life. Guesthouses are the most common option, providing simple but clean rooms—often with shared bathrooms—and traditional home-cooked meals. For those seeking a bit more privacy, some families have expanded their homes into small, hotel-style lodgings while preserving the region’s rustic charm. You can also book into Hotel Tusheti, a popular choice in Omalo with stunning views. Adventurous travellers may also choose to camp in the surrounding wilderness, waking up to sweeping views of the Tusheti mountains. Whether indoors or under the stars, staying in Omalo is as much about cultural connection as it is about comfort.
The road is rough and unpredictable, featuring potholes, loose gravel, mud puddles, and steep cliffside drops with no barriers.
You may encounter boulders, fog, and roadside memorials, reminders of the road’s dangers.
Cash Only: There are no ATMs in Tusheti. Bring enough cash for your entire stay.
Sustainability: Practice responsible tourism—dispose of waste properly, minimise environmental impact, and conserve water. Follow marked trails, dispose of waste responsibly, and avoid disturbing wildlife to help preserve the delicate ecosystem.
Limited Amenities: Expect basic infrastructure, limited connectivity, and few modern conveniences.
Respect Local Culture: Dress modestly, be courteous, and take time to learn about local customs and traditions.
Tour Operators: Consider travelling with a tour operator, especially if you're unfamiliar with the region. They can assist with logistics, accommodation, and provide local insights that enhance your visit.
Pack layers, including waterproof and warm clothing, as the weather can be unpredictable, even in summer.
Medical facilities are limited, so it's crucial to pack a first-aid kit and consider travel insurance that covers medical evacuation.
