High up in the rugged Svaneti region of northern Georgia lies a place seemingly untouched by the passage of time. Ushguli is not just remote. It feels like a lost page torn from the chronicles of the Middle Ages. Perched at over 2,000 metres above sea level beneath the icy crown of Mount Shkhara, this group of four age-old villages is widely regarded as the highest permanently inhabited place in Europe. Here, amid stone towers and glacial silence, the pace of life slows to a gentle rhythm, offering travellers a rare glimpse into a world that endures far from modern distractions.
For those who seek mystery, majesty, and meaningful silence, Ushguli is a journey worth every mile. Tucked away in the highlands of Svaneti in Georgia, this hidden gem is a living relic of culture and a wonder of nature. Winding trails pass by ancient stone towers, while flocks wander through meadows cloaked in mist, all under the towering presence of the snow-covered Greater Caucasus. Ushguli isn’t about glossy sights or staged experiences. It offers authenticity, preserved with pride and mountain grit.
The legacy of Ushguli stretches back over a thousand years. Constructed by the proud and self-reliant Svan community, Ushguli’s distinctive stone towers dating back to the 9th to 12th centuries were erected as much for protection as they were for enduring the harsh mountain life. In this remote mountain stronghold, communities relied on their own ingenuity to withstand enemies, avalanches, and time itself.
Ushguli’s seclusion played a key role in preserving its distinctive traditions, architectural style, and native language. For centuries, access was nearly impossible during harsh winters. Even today, the difficult road to Ushguli keeps mass tourism at bay, preserving its spirit for those who venture off the beaten path.
Despite its age, Ushguli lives on not as a museum, but as a real village with smoke rising from chimneys and children playing under ancient towers. Only a few hundred people live here, most relying on livestock, farming, and now slowly, tourism. Unreliable electricity and limited connectivity are everyday realities here, but they’re balanced by genuine hospitality and the crisp purity of mountain air. Guesthouses are modest, but what they lack in luxury, they make up for in soul and views that belong to another era.
Reachable by a rugged 4WD road trip from Mestia (about 45 km, 2.5–3 hours). Daily shared vans or jeeps run in summer months.
Bring cash in Georgian Lari (GEL). There are no ATMs or card facilities in the village.
Locals speak Svan and Georgian. English is rare. Learning a few Georgian words goes a long way.
Wi-Fi is scarce and unreliable. This is your chance to go offline and truly connect with the surroundings.
Warm clothes, hiking shoes, and rain jackets are essential even in summer, nights are cold and sudden showers are common.
Wander Among Svan Towers – Stroll through the village and look up at the centuries-old stone towers that still stand watch, preserving the stories of the past.
Visit Lamaria Church – Perched on a hilltop, this small chapel features weathered frescoes and panoramic views of the surrounding glaciers.
Hike to the Shkhara Glacier – Embark on a breathtaking 4–5 hour trek to the base of Georgia’s highest peak, where the glacier awaits in icy splendour.
Ride Through the Valleys – Join local guides on horseback as you follow time-worn trails, winding through alpine meadows filled with wildflowers.
Explore the Ethnographic Museum – Set within a restored tower, this museum offers a glimpse into traditional Svan life, from daily routines to ancient defences.
Meals in Ushguli are a comforting reflection of mountain life and generations-old family traditions. Most guesthouses serve dishes made fresh from garden produce and pantry staples, offering hearty, homecooked fare.
Svanuri Marili (Svan Salt) – A bold, garlicky blend of herbs and salt that’s the backbone of local flavour.
Matsoni – Tangy homemade yoghurt, often paired with golden honey from nearby mountain hives.
Chacha – A powerful homemade grape spirit, sipped slowly and shared as much for the ritual as the flavour. Shared during toasts celebrating friendship and life, chacha embodies warmth and togetherness. Distilled using ancient methods, each region boasts its own distinctive recipe, ranging from light and fruity to rich, oak-aged varieties with bold aromas.
Tashmijabi – Creamy mashed potatoes stirred with melted cheese, warm and indulgent with every bite.
Kubdari – Svaneti’s signature meat-filled bread, rich with spices and baked to a crisp perfection.
Chvishtari – Cornmeal cakes stuffed with cheese, pan-fried until golden—simple, satisfying, and irresistible.
In Ushguli, accommodation is simple yet rich in charm, offering a true taste of mountain hospitality:
Guesthouse Panorama Ushguli – Welcoming hosts, basic comforts, and breathtaking views of the surrounding peaks.
Guesthouse Nato & Lado – Famed for hearty homecooked meals and a warm, traditional setting that feels like family.
Local Homestays – Immerse yourself in village life with a stay in a family home—where meals, stories, and daily rhythms unfold naturally.
Summer (June–September)
With lush green trails, clear skies, and open roads, summer is the best time to explore Ushguli in comfort and ease.
Autumn (October)
The hills turn golden and the air grows crisp. It’s quieter, but early snowfalls can make travel unpredictable.
Winter (November–March)
Ushguli slips into deep stillness, blanketed in snow. Roads are often impassable—this season is for the truly adventurous.
While in Ushguli, a few tips can help you make the most of your visit:
Consider hiring a local guide from Mestia for glacier hikes or cultural walks—they add insight and ensure safety.
Power cuts are common, so a bit of patience goes a long way.
Always ask before taking photos of people or their homes—respect is key in this close-knit community.
Wi-Fi is rare, but starry skies and mountain silence offer their own kind of connection.
Pack wisely. Bring a flashlight, extra power banks, and plenty of warm layers to stay comfortable in changing mountain weather.
Support the community and the ecosystems by staying in family-run guesthouses and purchasing locally made crafts.
Always carry your rubbish out—leave the landscape as untouched as you found it.
Avoid climbing on the ancient towers or stone walls; they’re historic and fragile.
Embrace the quiet—Ushguli’s true charm lies in its peaceful stillness.
And try to learn a few words in Georgian or Svan; even a simple greeting can create meaningful connections.
Is Ushguli safe to explore alone?
Yes, it’s generally safe—just stick to daylight hours and let your host know if you’re heading out on a longer hike.
Can I visit Ushguli in one day?
You can make a day trip from Mestia, but staying overnight lets you truly experience its magic.
Is the hike to the glacier difficult?
It’s of moderate difficulty. With sturdy shoes and a steady pace, most walkers can manage it comfortably.
Do people speak English?
English is limited, so knowing a few Georgian phrases or using a translation app is helpful.
Is Ushguli suitable for kids?
Adventurous older children will enjoy it, but facilities are basic—plan and pack with care.
