To veer off State Highway 17 and pass through the arched gate to Mysore city is a symbolic act. One leaves behind the frenetic bustle and the determined post-modernist throb of Bengaluru, Mysore's eastern neighbour and, in many ways, the gracious old city's upstart sibling.
Till 1973, when Mysore State was renamed Karnataka, it was the spirit of Mysore that imbued the cultural and social life of the region. As Bengaluru embraced science and strode ahead into the emerging world of technology, Mysore remained enmeshed in a time warp of old-world royalty.
The Wodeyars made Mysore grand and irresistible, particularly so under the rule of Chikka Devaraja Wodeyar (1673-1704). He promoted art and literature, besides instituting large-scale administrative reforms. By the late 18th century, however, their sway over Mysore weakened when their general, Haider Ali, rebelled to establish a capital in the nearby Srirangapatna. The young Muslim kingdom barely had the time to consolidate itself when the British started interfering. Haider Ali's son, Tipu Sultan, bravely took on the challenge till he was killed in the Battle of Mysore in 1799, earning the grudging admiration of his enemies, who nicknamed him the Tiger of Mysore.
The Wodeyars returned to rule Mysore, subject to the British writ. Once again Mysore revived its links to art and learning. It's a tradition that lives on till today. Like the die-hard fans of RK Narayan's Tales from Malgudi who'll swear they can recognise its landmarks everywhere.
It's a city that harks back to a past when the finer things in life still mattered. It's a place where time is measured in seasons and not seconds, and where a horse-drawn tonga still runs alongside an autorickshaw.
Mysore's glorious past does not live on in its royal edifices, churches or museums. Its palpable in the unhurried, yet often grand lifestyle of its people, and its literature and performing arts. Cap the experience with a Mysorean sunset. Even today I would assert, after having visited many parts of the world, that nowhere can you witness such masterpiece sunsets as in Mysore, wrote RK Narayan in My Days.
Home to the Wodeyars, the Indo-Saracenic Amba Vilas Palace, also known as Mysore Palace, was built in 1912. Designed by Henry Irwin, this palace is dominated by domes, turrets and colonnades. Beautifully restored and maintained, the palace is a treasure trove of art, antiques and rare collectibles. In the Marriage Pavilion (open to the public only during Dasara) you can see the chandeliers, cast-iron pillars from Glasgow and a Belgian glass decorated ceiling. This is also where the jewel-studded 14th-century Golden Throne is placed. Some say it's made of fig wood.
Entry fee: INR 100 for Indians.
Timings: The palace is open daily from 10 AM to 5:30 PM.
Next to the palace is the Maharaja's Residence, now a museum with a good collection of art and artefacts. Normally lit on Sundays and public holidays, the grand structure is a treat, especially during Dasara when every evening its entire panoply of 97,000 bulbs shine bright.
Entry fee: INR 100.
Timings: 10 AM to 5.30 PM, open all days.
The Jagan Mohan Palace houses the Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery with its collection of Raja Ravi Varma and Nicholas Roerich paintings.
Entry fee: Adults INR 20, children INR 10.
Timings: 10 AM -5 PM, open all days.
Located 5 km from the Amba Vilas Palace, within the sprawling campus of the University of Mysore, lies the beautiful Jayalakshmi Vilasa Palace, built in 1905. It houses one of Mysore's best landmarks, the Folklore Museum. With over 6,500 articles on display, this museum is considered one of the biggest of its kind in Asia.
Entry: Free
Timings: 10 AM - 1 PM, 3 PM - 5 PM. Closed on Sundays and public holidays.
The second largest palace in the city, the Lalitha Mahal, is a spectacular white stone building, situated at the foot of the Chamundi Hills. Built in 1913 by Krishnaraja Wodeyar IV, it served as a palace for guests. The tradition continues with the palace now running as a 5-star heritage hotel.
Atop the Chamundi Hillls is the abandoned royal retreat, Rajendra Vilas. Its main draw is its spectacular view of Mysore.
Located behind the railway station, this little known, but impressive museum has locomotive coaches, paintings and photographs, narrating the Rail Story. The prize exhibit is the Maharaja's Saloon, especially crafted for the Wodeyar rulers in 1899.
Entry: INR 50 for adults, INR 20 for children
Timings: 10 am-5.30 pm.
Still Camera: INR 20, Video Camera: INR 30. Toy train ride: INR 10
Address: 8J8V+G8P, KRS Rd, opp. CFTRI, Medar Block, Yadavagiri, Mysuru, Karnataka 570005
Mysore's only British edifice, on Ashoka Road north of the Amba Vilas Palace, is this Gothic Church built in 1931. It's an imposing structure with impressive stained-glass windows and twin spires that stretch 175 ft into the sky.
Entry: Free
Timings: 8 AM -8 PM, open all days, cameras Not allowed.
Address: Lourdes Nagar, Ashoka Rd, Lashkar Mohalla, Mysuru, Karnataka 570001
Perched atop the Chamundi Hills, at a height of 1,000 ft on the eastern edge of Mysore, sits the 11th-century Chamundeswari Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga, the family deity of the Wodeyars. You can either climb the 1,000 steps to the temple or drive up the winding ghat roads. As you approach the temple, you can see the towering statue of the demon Mahishasura. Nearby is the monolithic Nandi.
Entry: Ordinary darshan free, special darshan INR 10.
Timings: 7.30 AM - 2 PM, 3.30-6 PM and 7.30-9 PM, open all days.
Address: Shri Chamundeshwari Temple Road, Chamundi Hill, Mysuru, Karnataka 570010
Over 60,000 palm-leaf manuscripts in Sanskrit and South Indian languages are housed in the Oriental Research Institute. Located behind Maharaja's College, its prized possessions include Prof R Shama Sastry's translation of Kautilya's Arthashastra. It is one of Mysore's treasures.
Entry: Free
Timings: 10 AM - 5.30 PM, closed on Sundays and on second Saturdays.
Address: University of Mysore, Kautilya Circle near, near Crawford Hall, Mysuru, Karnataka 570005
At the Payana Car Museum, you'll encounter not only an impressive array of cars, but also a showcase of heritage vehicles like the iconic double-decker bus of Mumbai and the extinct 'kaali-peeli' taxis. Read more about it here.
Address: Bengaluru - Mysuru Expressway, Brahmapura, Srirangapatna, Mandya District-571477
To experience Mysore at its best, simply walk. The 150-acre Karanji Kere (next to the zoo) is a refreshing green lung. Skirting the Manasa Gangotri Campus is Kukkanahalli Kere, RK Narayan's muse.
From sandalwood to silk, Mysore has a wealth of textile and crafts that you can pick up as gifts and souvenirs. For shopaholics, Mysore's well-planned markets are a treat. The Devaraj Urs Market, also known as Mysore City Market, is a historic and bustling marketplace where you will find Mysore's special fragrant jasmine, and the tangy betel leaf. Also, on Sayyaji Rao Road is the government-run Cauvery Arts Emporium, known for its genuine sandalwood and ivory inlay work.
Drop by at the Government Silk Weaving Factory on Mananthavady Road, where you can watch the famous Mysore silk saris being woven. The factory also houses a retail outlet on the premises and another one on KR Circle. Another place to visit is the Government Sandal Oil Factory, located in Kuvempu Nagar 2nd Stage, where sandal oil is extracted and used in the production of the famous Mysore Sandal Soap. Timings 9:30 AM – 1 PM, 2 PM – 5:30 PM. Closed on Sunday.
A laid-back stopover city en route the Kodagu, Wayanad and the Nilgiris, Mysore has plenty of hotels to choose from.
Strategically located at the foothills of Chamundi Hills and overlooking the majestic Mysore Palace, the 141-key Taj Mysore is designed to reflect the city's regal charm. The advantage of location goes to The Viceroy, a popular 3-star hotel situated near the Mysore Palace and offering views of the Chamundi Hills. At the upper end of the scale is the Hotel Southern Star, centrally located in Mysore, close to major attractions like Mysore Palace and the railway station. Karnataka Tourism's Mayura Hoysala is a good option but book well in advance. Situated near the railway station, it is easily accessible for travellers and offers a range of accommodations at reasonable prices. The middle-range King's Kourt Hotel is nearby.
On the green outskirts, Lalitha Mahal Palace Hotel is superbly located at the foot of Chamundi Hills. On the Mysore-Nanjangud Road is The Village Resort, 2 km from the city centre. The Royal Orchid Brindavan Garden, located an hour away from the main city, is often the first choice for locals looking to escape the daily grind. Frequented equally by bird-watchers and photographers, the property provides an unmatched view of the gardens as well as the KRS (Krishna Raja Sagar) dam.
Taking a tiffin break in Mysore is the most delicious thing to do. The city offers terrific set dosas (fluffy, soft pancakes made of beaten rice, served in sets of three), masala dosas, uppittu (or upma), rava idli and Mysore rasam. Tasty savouries like churmuris and peanut masala also entice. But the most outstanding feature of the city is the web of bakeries set up by Mysore's Vaishnavite community, the Iyengars. Try out the veg bun cakes and nipattus at the Iyengar Bakeries on Devaraj Urs Road and the nearby Sayyaji Rao Road. And how can anyone forget Mysore pak, the sweetmeat that Mysore made famous. Check here for the best places to have Mysore pak. While in Mysore, also check out the Mylari Dosa. Legend has it that the Mylari dosa in Mysore is the softest in all the land.
The restaurant at Hotel Dasaprakash is recommended for excellent South Indian thalis. Bombay Tiffany's is a popular restaurant and bakery known for its vegetarian snacks, sweets, and baked goods. It's a well-regarded establishment with multiple locations in Mysore, including one on Sayyaji Rao Road and another in Kuvempunagar. The Nalpak restaurants in Ittigegudu, Kuvempu Nagar and VV Mohalla are the places to head for delicacies like akki and ragi roti, and the spicy bisi-beli-huli-anna (hot-lentil-tamarind-rice). If driving down from Bengaluru, try the famous Maddur vadai at the town by the same name en route. If you are in Mysore for just a day, this food guide has got you covered with top recommendations from chef Ria Belliappa for a full day of gastronomical magic
The nearest airport to Mysore is Mysore Airport (MYQ), also known as Mandakalli Airport, which is located about 12 kilometers from the city center. However, it has limited connectivity. The closest major international airport is Kempegowda International Airport (BLR) in Bangalore, which is approximately 170 kilometers away. For railway travel, Mysore Junction (MYS) is the main railway station serving the city and is well-connected to major cities in India.
The best time to visit Mysore is during the winter months, from October to March. This period offers pleasant weather, making it ideal for sightseeing and exploring the city's attractions. The temperature during this time ranges from 15°C to 30°C, providing a comfortable climate for outdoor activities. You can also visit during the monsoon season, from July to September if you do not mind getting a bit wet. While the city experiences heavy rainfall during this time, it also turns lush green, offering a soothing and peaceful atmosphere. It can be a good time for budget travellers. Summer, April to June, can be hot and humid.
There are several interesting places to see near Mysore. Approximately 19 km away, Srirangapatna is a historic island town featuring the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple, Tipu Sultan's Summer Palace (Daria Daulat Bagh), and the Gumbaz.
Somnathpur is known for the Chennakesava Temple, which exemplifies beautiful Hoysala architecture. Talakadu is an ancient temple town with submerged temples along the Kaveri River.
If you enjoy exploring wildlife, Bandipur National Park, approximately 80-90 km away, is home to elephants, tigers, leopards, and various other animals. Similarly, Nagarhole National Park, approximately 61 km away, offers opportunities for wildlife viewing, including tigers, elephants, and gaurs. For nature lovers, Shivanasamudra Falls features a stunning waterfall divided into two sections: Barachukki and Gaganachukki.
