I walk through a gallery whose walls are adorned with colourful Gond art, characterised by figures of birds, animals and humans created with dots. I have come to the Aadivart Tribal and Folk Art Museum, an immersive experience that showcases the traditions and cultures of seven tribes like the Gonds, Bheels, Baigas, etc. that live in Madhya Pradesh. Most visitors to Khajuraho don’t explore the town beyond its temples and carved erotica, so they miss out on this hidden gem.
The museum was opened in 2023 and is divided into two parts: a museum with galleries, and another section with a replica village showcasing the life-sized huts of different tribes. In front of the museum is a gargantuan wooden statue of the Boodhi Dai and Bada Dev, deities worshipped by the tribes representing the divine creator and destroyer. A platform with rods represents Gal Baapji, a deity worshipped by the Bheels for accomplishing any desire or vow, and for overcoming illness and other obstacles. Not far away is a ladder made of wooden logs and sharp swords called Sarg Nasaini. Sharp trishuls line a path as offerings to a goddess.
Upon entering the museum, the first gallery features brilliant and colourful Sanja art from the Malwa region. It is made by applying cow dung on the walls and creating patterns using the thumb and index finger, then decorating with flower petals. I notice Pithora art on another wall, a visual tradition of the Bheels for invoking the rain god in areas with less rainfall. The sun, the moon and horses are three lucky mascots which appear frequently in Bheel art. These paintings use cow dung and chuna on the walls, and its vivid colours are painted by a brush made from a tree branch.
Another painting shows the Bheel community's beliefs on the source of water originating from a sycamore tree. It is believed that animals and birds from far and wide come to this tree to quench their thirst. The intricacies of Gond art supposedly springs from South India when it was part of Gondwanaland. With its vibrant colours arranged in lines and dots, Gond art depicts birds, animals, human beings and deities inspired by local legends and myths.
There is a gallery dedicated to tribal jewellery and tattoo traditions. One of the displays is a ceremonial bangle adorned with fertility symbols that is usually presented to the bride. The tattoo traditions invoke ancient symbols of the sun and moon. Apart from looking beautiful, their purpose was to protect the wearer from wild animals.
My favourite part of the museum is a gargantuan three-dimensional mural that represents the origin story of the most important life-giving river of the state: the mighty Narmada. The stories are portrayed through colourful images and depict wild forests and animals on the Narmada, including the towns through which she flows such as Amarkantak and Maheshwar. It was created by the artist on a long paper roll which has been enlarged be mounted on wood.
I head to a room displaying the Saja tree, which is the abode of a deity worshipped by the Gond community. On the walls are a variety of distinctive artistic traditions such as Kohbar paintings, geometric patterns created by newlyweds when they enter their new home, and paintings of the Tulsi Choura with pictures of Radha and Krishna. There are also special paintings done for specific occasions like Nag Panchami, for particular deities like the Goddess of Knowledge, or for the prosperity of the house. The visual art style of the Chambal region, which decorates the outer façade of a house when a wedding is held, is striking.
The next gallery has a large pile of terracotta figurines in the centre of the room. It shows how the tribal communities of Jhabua district worship the deity Baabdev by offering up goats, local crops and terracotta figures of horses. The gallery after the terracotta figurines showcases the dance traditions of tribal communities which are inspired by living beings, the flora and fauna. I find it interesting to note that there are no spectators in tribal dances as everyone participates.
I finally end up on the other side of the museum where a replica village of tribal houses was built by folk artisans. Inside these houses are utensils, clay granaries, baskets, cooking stoves, furniture, knives, ploughs and spades, all of the daily implements used by local communities. The indoor walls are plastered with art. Stepping into the Gond tribal house I spot a doriya, a beautifully covered basket used during weddings to send food from the bride's side. The Baiga houses are built around a central courtyard and have high fences to protect them from wild animals. The tribal houses are ecofriendly as they are constructed using wood, straw and bamboo. The floors are polished with cow dung and many of the rooms are communal in nature.
I leave the museum after picking up a dhokra metal figurine and a tribal bangle from the souvenir shop to remind me of the rich traditions of the tribes of this state, which live in complete harmony with the natural world.
