You don&rsquot have to go to Death Valley in July like I did, but this desert on the California-Nevada state line is best experienced at its most extreme. Approach the valley from the west, past the gnarly Joshua trees at Panamint Springs, and climb to Towne Pass where it is nearly 5,000ft and a balmy 200C. Then, for the next 20km, keep your windows rolled down and stick out a hand as you plummet to Stovepipe Wells, where it is 100ft below sea level and 550C. During your stay at the valley, you will be seduced by glittering salt flats, windswept sand dunes and a riot of colours on the rocks at Zabriskie Point. But that initial plunge into hell will stay with you. On your way out towards Nevada, don&rsquot forget to stop by the Amargosa Opera House at Death Valley Junction, population 4. See www.nps.gov/deva