Litchfield National Park, Australia | I am captivated by the sight of gargantuan golden orb spiders, the size of a man’s hand, spinning their sunlit webs, darting frilled-neck lizards scurrying into the undergrowth, and grey-headed flying foxes roosting upside down on the tops of palm trees. These flying foxes can travel up to 50 km in the night, pollinating flowers and spreading fruit seeds, regenerating woodlands and forests. Kookaburras and kingfishers fly past us, as the canopy provides shade and a cool temperature.
I am at Litchfield National Park, a lush corner of the Northern Territory in Australia’s Top End, that feels like Jurassic Park, spread across a compact 1,461 sq km, just a 90-minute drive from Darwin. The pint-sized national park is home to lush waterfalls, rock holes, woodlands, rainforests and towering termite mounds. Litchfield’s compact size makes going from one attraction to another a breeze, and its diversity of landscapes and terrain makes it the perfect national park for those with limited time.
Driving into Litchfield feels like an oasis for travellers escaping from the heat, with its otherworldly landscapes of sandstone, moulded and shaped by water. It percolates through sandstone fissures from the sandstone plateau of the Tabletop Range, and falls into dramatic waterfalls and plunge pools with crystal-clear water, fringed by tropical greenery.
Our local guide Rob Woods, of Ethical Adventures, a tour company based in Darwin, explains that Litchfield has been the home of the Indigenous people for millennia and is a sacred place for them. Our first stop here is the misty Wangi Falls, the most accessible of all the waterfalls, where water from a huge cliff face, fringed by greenery, plunges into an emerald swimming pool. Unfortunately, we are here at the end of the wet season and cannot swim in it. But just walking the trails around Wangi, with its monsoon rainforest and tall trees with fruit bats, and seeing it from a boardwalk is a thrilling experience.
If you are adventurous, choose the 41.7 km Tabletop Track that starts from Wangi Falls and takes you through extensive woodlands, along creek lines to scenic waterfalls and pools, and takes you three to five days to complete. You can also do shorter loops like the Treetop Deck or the steep Wangi Loop with scenic viewpoints.
One of the spectacular things about the national park is its lush flora—from tall palms and Kapok bush to tropical banksia, wild hibiscus and spiky pandanus. We drive to Buley Rockholes, a local favourite with a cascade of spring-fed, teal-coloured tiered waterholes, set in orange rock and surrounded by lush rainforests, to sink into and cool yourself. Open generally through the year, it’s the perfect place to cool off. Each pool differs in depth and size, and if you want to nab a good spot, make sure to get here early. Families with kids holding brightly coloured pool noodles float lazily in the waters, under the shade of tall trees. Many just lounge in the cold water, while others swim laps against the gentle currents.
Tolmer Falls is one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the park, and also one of the few where you cannot swim, where a short walk takes you to the viewing platform with an up-close view of the thundering waterfalls over a rocky cliff, which is home to a colony of rare ghost and orange horseshoe bats. Clusters of sandstone and quartzite, eroded into russet blocks by the rocks fracturing at right angles to each other, cycads as old as dinosaurs, and open woodlands line the path to the falls. It’s here that I truly get a sense of the vastness of the undeveloped and pristine region. In the distance is just lush greenery and the glorious outback.
Rob drives us to the Tabletop Swamp, a wetland, a little off the well-trodden tourist track, surrounded by paperbark trees and picnic tables, which, like a saucer of water, provides the source of water to many rock holes and waterfalls. He efficiently whips out a tablecloth, drink cans and metal tiffin boxes prepped with salad ingredients, adding toppings like avocado and salmon and serves it on the picnic tables. We eat in silence, bewitched by the sounds of nature around us, watching egrets and herons and soaking in the tranquillity of the place.
Don’t miss a look at Litchfield’s otherworldly Magnetic Termite Mounds to marvel at nature’s ingenuity. These look like tombstones in a cemetery, and were painstakingly made by a well-organised army of workers and soldiers, overseen by their queen, and spike its vast plains, some as tall as four metres high! They are so called as they are engineered to be like magnetic compasses, with their thin edges pointing north and south and their backs pointing east and west, so that the narrow part catches the sun and remains cool! We learn about how these intricate structures are temperature-regulated with pores and are cool inside, and this prevents them from becoming solar ovens in the hot season.
We drive past campgrounds where, for as little as USD 20 (approximately INR 1,700), one can enjoy a hot shower and good facilities. We find our own sweet spot at Florence Creek, where we half recline against rocks and soak in the ice-cold water under the shade of paperbark trees, chatting with one another. It’s a hot day, but under the trees here it’s blissfully cool and I muse on the power of water that silently keeps flowing for millennia, slowly eroding rocks and sustaining life. Green reflections of the trees above, the rocks seen through the crystal-clear water, and the feel of water lapping against my back—it truly feels like a piece of paradise.
Best Time to Visit: The dry season from May to October offers the most pleasant weather and fully accessible trails, waterfalls, and swimming holes. The wet season (November to April) sees fewer crowds, but some areas may be closed due to heavy rain.
How to Reach: From India, there are no direct flights to Darwin. Travellers can fly to Darwin International Airport via connecting flights through major hubs such as Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Sydney, or Melbourne. Airlines like Singapore Airlines, Qantas, and AirAsia offer convenient one-stop options. From Darwin, Litchfield National Park is a 90-minute drive (approximately 120 km). The easiest way to reach the park is by self-drive car rental or by booking a guided day tour from Darwin. Public transport does not operate directly to the park.
Entry Fee: There is no entry fee for Litchfield National Park, but some campgrounds may charge nominal fees for amenities.
Things to Do: Hike rainforest trails around Wangi Falls, swim in natural rock pools at Buley Rockholes and Florence Falls, and visit the dramatic Tolmer Falls lookout. For longer treks, the Tabletop Track offers multi-day hiking through woodlands and creeks. Don't miss the otherworldly Magnetic Termite Mounds and the serene Tabletop Swamp for wildlife spotting.
Where to Stay: Camping is available within the park at sites like Wangi Falls, Walker Creek, and Florence Falls. Darwin offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget hostels to upscale hotels.
Nearby Attractions: Combine your trip with a visit to Kakadu National Park or Berry Springs Nature Park. Darwin city offers museums, waterfront dining, and indigenous art galleries for a well-rounded Top End experience.
Visa Policy for Indians: Indian citizens must apply for an Australian Visitor Visa (subclass 600). Applications can be submitted online through the Australian Immigration website, and may require supporting documents like proof of funds, itinerary, and accommodation details.