In May 1973, the United States and NASA launched their first space station, Skylab, into orbit. Six years later, fragments of this project rained down upon Esperance, a quiet town in Western Australia—a place so obscure that many Australians knew little of it. With a modest population of around 2,700, Esperance suddenly found itself thrust into the global spotlight.
Seizing the moment, the town's municipality issued a fine of USD 400 to the United States for "littering." In 2009, after nearly three decades, radio show host Scott Barley finally paid the fine on behalf of NASA by raising funds from his morning show listeners. A San Francisco newspaper offered USD 10,000 for the first piece of Skylab debris brought to their office, sparking a frenzy. Stan Thornton, a teenager, won with help from a Perth radio station and Qantas. The event secured Esperance's place in space-age history, attracting curiosity seekers to this gem on the Southern Ocean coastline, about 720 kilometres east-southeast of Perth.
Today, Esperance is home to one of the world's largest collections of Skylab debris. The Esperance Museum houses this extraordinary collection, including an oxygen tank, a nitrogen tank, and various pieces of insulation and metal. This permanent exhibit draws tourists, contributing to the town's sustained tourism industry. Esperance received close to 200,000 visitors in 2023.
"I was in my late thirties when Skylab crashed here. At that time, we seldom saw any tourists," said an 82-year-old local I encountered at the 33 Degrees pub at the Esperance Esplanade overlooking the stunning Bay of Isles.
Beyond its cosmic connection, Esperance draws visitors to its pristine beaches, diverse wildlife, and rich Aboriginal history. The Indigenous residents, the Esperance Nyungar and the Ngadju, make up 4.1 per cent of the local population.
The Esperance Nyungar's ancestral lands stretch across more than 30,000 square kilometres. Descendants of seven significant ancestors, today, six family groups carry the responsibility of preserving their cultural traditions and sharing them with future generations.
The Ngadju people, known as the "Song and Dance" people, have inhabited this area for 50,000 years. Their unique identity, rooted in language and spiritual practices, emphasises the importance of community and connection to the land.
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My visit to Esperance had its fair share of adventure. After a somewhat turbulent 1.5-hour flight from Perth on the regional Rex Airlines, we boarded a Cessna 206 commercial aircraft for a 35-minute aerial tour of the region. This nerve-wracking flight offered panoramic views of Woody Island on the Recherche Archipelago; Hellfire Bay, a hidden gem with a scenic, secluded beach surrounded by rugged, sea-swept headlands; Lucky Bay, with its pristine white sands glittering in the crystal-clear turquoise waters; Frenchman Peak, named by surveyor Alexander Forrest in 1870 for its resemblance to the distinctive hats worn by French soldiers; and Lake Spencer, the Instagram-famous "Pink Lake" that is just as stunning in reality.
The stunning vistas, while awe-inspiring, couldn't entirely quell my growing unease. Every altitude change or sharp turn sent a jolt of fear through me.
"That's Wylife Bay over there," our young Filipino pilot pointed out, interrupting my anxious thoughts. "A local surfer was killed by a shark there in October 2020." As he spoke, my heart sank, and I resumed my silent prayers for a safe landing.
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Our second day began with an early start as we boarded a large boat, joining 20 other tourists and locals for a cruise around the stunning waters of Esperance. Departing from Taylor St Jetty at 8 AM, we were immediately met with rough seas. Those of us standing at the back in the open were quickly drenched, as we clung to a metal pole for life.
Our guide was the 16-year-old son of the captain, who bore a striking resemblance to Dudley Dursley from the Harry Potter movies. Throughout the 3.5-hour journey, he showed us the sights and wildlife of the Recherche Archipelago, a group of 105 islands off the south coast of Western Australia. We had several close encounters with New Zealand Fur Seals, Australian Sea Lions, Cape Barren Geese, and White-Bellied Sea Eagles, all in their natural habitats.
For the more daring among us, there was an opportunity to take a dip in the blue waters. "Go ahead, mate, dive in," our guide encouraged as he emerged from a swim in the icy cold sea. I mustered all my courage, recalling every ice bath challenge video I'd ever seen, but in the end, I couldn't bring myself to jump in. "Maybe another time," I thought, already drenched from the spray. Instead, I opted for the warmth of steaming coffee and muffins.
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On our final day in Esperance, we took a quick tour of Cape Le Grand National Park, renowned for its coastline of rugged granite terrain and white sand beaches. As we traversed the park in our 4x4, we encountered brown rabbits and a snake, adding a touch of local wildlife to our adventure.
Suddenly, the landscape opened up to reveal a breathtaking sight: Lucky Bay, one of Western Australia's most picturesque beaches. With its crystal-clear turquoise waters and soft, powdery sands, Lucky Bay is a dream destination for swimmers, snorkellers, surfers, and anglers. We set up a temporary camp on the white sands, eager to spot the kangaroos that roam the beach. However, despite our best efforts, we couldn't find any.
"Kangaroos used to be common on this beach because tourists would feed them," said Jess, our guide. "But that was disrupting their natural foraging habits. Now, with stricter regulations kangaroo sightings have reduced."
Originally from Canada, Jess came to Esperance about a decade ago and met her future husband. "Since then, this is home," she said. "Love makes you do crazy things."
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As I sat by the water's edge at Lucky Bay, savouring the last few moments of peace and solitude before my flight back to Perth, I reflected on the transformative power of nature. Just a day earlier, I had been battling the rough seas on our cruise. Now, I found solace in the tranquillity of Lucky Bay, savouring the wonder that is Esperance.
For a great dining experience, visit 33 Degrees, a pub with views of the Bay of Isles, or kick off your day at Lauren's Larder, a pop-up stall serving great breakfast. Yirri Grove on Myrup is ideal for olive tastings, coffee, and lunch, while Bistro Louis on Dempster St has French-inspired flavours in a cosy setting. Go to Lucky Bay Brewing on Bandy Creek Road for craft beers and wood-fired pizzas.
Esperance Chalet Village features uniquely styled self-contained cabins, chalets, and shacks in a coastal estate near Bandy Creek. Close to the beaches and just 5km from the town centre, it's the perfect base for exploring Cape Le Grand National Park and Lucky Bay.
Explore Cape Le Grand National Park for its rugged coastline and hiking trails like Frenchman's Peak. Visit the 415m-long Esperance Jetty and check out the Esperance Museum's collection and Cindy Poole Glass Gallery. Don't miss Esperance Stonehenge, a full-sized replica aligned with the solstices.
Esperance is accessible by road, approximately an eight-hour drive from Perth. For a quicker option, fly with REX Airlines, which has daily flights from Perth that take about 90 minutes.
