My first wildlife safari was in Jharkhali in the Sundarbans. We spent hours navigating its tidal creeks along the Matla and the Herobhanga rivers, hoping the mangroves would surrender a tiger. They never did. An estuarine crocodile basking on a mudflat was the closest we came to a top predator. Months later, Pench offered the opposite experience. Bijamatta walked past with her sub-adult cub. The following morning, Kalapahad emerged, paused to mark her territory, and vanished. The tigers were unforgettable, but they weren’t what stayed with me. With every safari, I have begun paying less attention to the promise of a sighting and more to the forest itself: the alarm call of a langur, the nervous glance of a chital, fresh pugmarks pressed into the dust, claw marks on a teak trunk. The spectacle gradually gave way to curiosity.










