Offbeat Alert: Guide To The Ruins And Heritage Of Champaner, A UNESCO Site

Forty-nine kilometres from Vadodara lies a historical town that was once at the height of its grandeur. Champaner was the seat of the Bhil Dynasty but was founded by Vanraj Chavda, the most prominent king of the Chavda Dynasty, in the 8^th century. The town changed hands when the Sultan of Gujarat, Mahmud Begada, decided to attack Champaner in the 15^th century and make the site the capital of his kingdom. Today, the town is home to the splendid Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2004.

Here’s what you should know about Champaner.

Steeped In Time And History

Champaner lies at the foot of the 800-metre-high Pavagadh Hill, which is composed of reddish-yellow coloured stone formations and is among the oldest rock formations in India. The monuments that make up the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park are old, too, and attest to the site’s diverse heritage and culture. The earliest temple here dates back to the 10^th or 11^th century and is dedicated to Lakulisa, a Shaivite revivalist. Other temples belong to the Hindu and Jain sects and are dated to be between the 13^th and 15^th centuries. All the temples were designed in the Nagara style and have a garbhagriha, mandapa and an entrance porch.

A fortress on the top of Pavagadh Hill used to belong to the Solanki kings of Gujarat. When Begada took possession of the fort in 1484, and by extension the site of Champaner as a whole, he renamed the area as Muhammadabad. In addition to embarking on a vast infrastructure project that saw the building of bridges, roads, markets, gardens and fortifications, he also built water harvesting structures such as lakes, ponds, step wells and tanks. The most notable of Begada’s works is arguably Champaner’s Jama Masjid, a blend of Jain and Muslim architecture often considered to be one of the finest mosques in Western India because of its elegant interiors.

Another highlight of the UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Kevada Mosque, one among a handful of mosques whose ruins still exist. Its numerous mihrabs (niches), all intricately carved with floral and geometrical designs, are a wonder to behold. The layout of the mosque is rectangular in size and features a double-storied prayer hall that used to have three domes—now only one remains. The windows and minarets are also exquisitely carved, indicating that Begada spared no expense in the buildings he made.

There are 11 different types of buildings at the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, including mosques, temples, granaries, tombs, wells, walls and terraces. The most-visited temple on the hill is the Kalika Mata Temple, one of Gujarat's major Shakti Peethas. It features three images of goddesses inside it: in the centre is Kalika Mata, on the right is the goddess Kali and on the left is Bahuchara Mata. The spire of this temple carries a shrine of Sadanandsha pir, a Muslim saint held in great reverence in the region. The best time to visit is the Kalika Mata Temple is during the Navratri festival. One can reach the temple via a ropeway system that carries 1,200 people to the top every hour.

The temples of the Jain religion at Pavagadh Hill are also noteworthy. They are of three different groups: the first consists of the Bhavanaderi temples near Naqqarkhana gate called the Navalakka temples; the second group is in honour of the Tirthankaras Suparshvanatha and Chandraprabha; and the third group is near the Pārśva Temple. These temples are believed to have been constructed in the 14^th–15^th centuries. There are elaborately carved seated and standing images of the Jain pantheon seen on the temples' outer walls.

One of the best things about visiting the Champaner-Pavagadh Archeological Park is it's adorned with well-manicured gardens that preserve the old royal feel of the heritage buildings. Make sure you check out the Helical Step Well, a unique 15^th- or 16^th-century structure that has a 1.2-metre-wide staircase that spirals down along the wall of the well shaft; the Nagina Masjid, whose cenotaph is beautifully carved with niches and columns; and the Kamani Masjid, which rarely gets visitors, before you leave.

Places To Visit Near Champaner

Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary

Located in the Panchmahal district of Central Gujarat and spread over 130 square kilometres, the Jambughoda Wildlife Sanctuary is home to a variety of animals, such as leopards, sloth bears, jackals and blue bulls, and plants, like sag, sadad, shisham and khair. Its teak and bamboo forests and reservoirs create a tranquil atmosphere where visitors can relax away from city life. The most striking feature of the area is its undulating hills, and most of the people who live here are indigenous to the land. This wildlife sanctuary is the perfect place for a camping experience.

Tomb Of Sikandar Shah

Sikandar Shah was a Sultan of Gujarat who was murdered on the instruction of his slave on May 30, 1526, after a reign of just a few weeks. His mausoleum in Halol, just seven kilometres from Champaner, consists of a single-storey structure with central domes and five smaller ones. Inside it are two chambers adorned with floral patterns and geometric designs, particularly on the porches and pillars.

Where To Stay In Champaner

Consider booking accommodation at the Hotel Nilkanth, the Hotel Aspolav Inn, the Basalt Paradise Resort and Spa, and the Richa Hotel Palace. The best time to visit the Champaner-Pavagadh Archeological Park is during the monsoon, when the rains make the site glimmer with awe-inspiring beauty, and winter, when the weather is cooler. It is best to check out the site during a weekday and outside of the festive season, as it can get very crowded.

How To Reach Champaner

The closest airport to Champaner is in Vadodara and the nearest railhead is the Champaner Road Junction railway station (CPN). However, it’s best to alight at Vadodara Junction (BRC) as it enjoys wider connectivity with the rest of India. State buses are available from Ahmedabad and Vadodara for visitors who want to reach Champaner.