After the news that the Supreme Court of India ordered authorities in Delhi-NCR to move all stray dogs from the streets to animal shelters within eight weeks, there has been much online discussion about the effectiveness, ethics and challenges involved in doing so. This spotlight on “man’s best friend” has seen an outpouring of commentary from animal lovers, people concerned about rabies and dog attacks, and everyone in between.
One place where dogs are not just welcomed but considered sacred is the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple near Kannur. Anchored on the banks of the Valapattanam River, this temple, considered to be one of the Malabar region’s most revered pilgrimage sites, is flanked by bronze statues of dogs standing guard outside the temple gate—the first sign that a special bond exists between these four-legged animals and humans.
The second indication of this unique association is during the distribution of the prasad (blessed offering), which is first served to a dog that stands ready inside the temple complex before it is served to other devotees.
So, what’s behind the reverence with which the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple priests and community hold dogs? Here’s what we found.
The deity of the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple, locally known as Parassini Madapura, is Muthappan, a personification of Thiruvappana (Vishnu) and Vellatom (Shiva). According to local folklore, a child named Muthappan used to live in the area and had an insatiable appetite for dried fish, toddy and meat. Owing to his strange ways, he was cast out by his family. After his disappearance, a string of curious and out-of-the-ordinary incidents made the residents realise that the child was an incarnation of the divine; hence, a temple was erected and Muthappan began to be worshipped.
The god is considered a protector of the downtrodden, so people from all walks of life visit the temple to seek his blessings. Because Muthappan was always accompanied by a dog, the animals are considered sacred and roam free in large numbers inside and outside the vicinity of the temple.
Every morning and evening, the temple performs nayoottu, or a ceremony of feeding the dogs dried fish and other items. It is said that a seven-year-old local dog called Sundari is the favourite of visitors and temple staff alike. She is the daughter of Meenu, a former stray and the oldest dog in the temple at 15 years old.
According to a local animal shelter, there has been no history of bites among the dogs at the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple. Pet owners often visit the shrine to pray for the wellbeing of their animal companions, too.
Another notable fact about the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple is its theyyam ritual. Meaning “god” or the “incarnation of god,” this is an ancient folk ritual combining theatre, mime and worship that predates Hinduism but incorporates Hindu mythology. A typical theyyam performance involves the chanting of mantras for an extended period of time and ceremonial preparations that typically span eight to 10 hours. The ritual culminates with the placement of the mudi (sacred headgear) on the performer, a moment believed to mark the entry of the deity into the performer’s body. As part of the process, the performer consumes madhyam (toddy), which is believed to suppress personal consciousness, allowing the divine consciousness of the deity to manifest.
Unlike other places in Kerala where theyyam is conducted seasonally, the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple conducts the performance on a daily basis. People from the Vannan community perform the theyyam, while those of the Thiyya community conduct the pujas. It is a custom here to offer the deity fish, toddy, boiled black beans and tea as offerings, which are then distributed to those gathered.
A visit to the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple is a unique experience with no equivalent anywhere else. Whether you’re a dog lover or someone who stays as far away from them as possible, you will find something to admire about the temple, whether it is its traditions, its architecture (a three-storied structure painted in white), or simply how it shows the rest of us how to live together with non-human animals.
The best time to visit the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple is during the first week of December, when locals celebrate the annual harvest festival of Puthari Thiruvappana.
Take a flight or train to Kannur city and then a bus or taxi to the Parassini Madappura Sree Muthappan temple, 21 km away.
The temple is open daily from 6:30 AM to 8:30 PM according to online sources.