A Walk Through Borjomi: Exploring Georgia’s Historic Spa Town

On a recent trip to Georgia, Borjomi was high on the list of places to visit. This historic spa town has retained its spa culture, offering visitors the chance to taste mineral water from a public spring and experience the unhurried pace of Georgian life in the mountains. Small yet diverse, Borjomi is also easy to explore on foot, with most of its sightseeing attractions within walking distance of one another.

While strolling through the main tourist area, a queue of people holding plastic containers caught my attention. Some of the containers could hold five or 10 litres of water. One by one, people bent down to fill them with mineral-rich natural spring water gushing from an opening in a stone wall.

Wishing to sample this mineral water, I bought a plastic glass from the nearby souvenir shop. After getting in line and filling the glass, the first sip came as a surprise. Cold and naturally carbonated, it tasted like salted Sprite.

Seeing my surprised expression, the lady from whom I had bought the plastic glass explained, “While the taste can take some getting used to, its therapeutic properties have been appreciated for centuries. The carbonated water contains naturally occurring minerals, including calcium, potassium and magnesium, and has been studied for potential digestive benefits. Our town’s wellness centres offer treatments using the water.”

The weather was pleasant, with a nip in the air, and the crisp mountain air made the walk particularly enjoyable. A little further along stood the main entrance of Borjomi Central Park and the former 1896 Borjomi Mineral Water Export Building. A quick peek inside the cultural heritage monument revealed a few photographs displaying the grand scale of bottling and exporting the town’s mineral water.

The well-manicured park was filled with children running around and families leisurely walking along the paths. Another mineral-water drinking source had drawn a small crowd. A board mentioned that its water came from the Ekaterina Spring.

Unlike the previous location, where visitors could fill their own containers, here, a lady filled plastic glasses and handed them over to visitors. A pictorial notice added that five- or 10-litre plastic containers were not allowed. This water was warm and had considerably more fizz.

Heading back towards the exit, the Borjomi Cable Car caught my eye as it moved from the park to the Borjomi Plateau. The ride offers panoramic views of the wooded gorge, forests and town, making it another way to take in the landscape.

A Glimpse Of Borjomi’s Heritage

Firuza Palace, a hard-to-miss 1892 building located close to the park, was the next stop. Its turquoise façade, highlighted by mirror-studded balconies, drew the attention of several visitors. A couple sitting on one of the balconies looked back at us as we paused to admire the building.

Blending Persian, Georgian and European design elements, the palace was built for Mirza Reza Khan, an Iranian diplomat serving in the Caucasus. Today, it houses the Golden Tulip Borjomi Hotel.

Shopping For Keepsakes

9 April Street, which runs along Borjomi Central Park, was lined on both sides with souvenir shops, mostly run by women. Woollen socks and shawls, traditional Caucasian papakha hats, wooden spoons and boxes, and jewellery filled the shelves.

What stood out about the shops was that no one hassled visitors to buy anything. A couple tried on a papakha hat, clicked a photograph and walked on without purchasing it. The vibe of the shops was homely, too. There was no fancy marketing jargon. The women spoke basic English, and handmade boards displayed the prices of the souvenirs.

The edible souvenirs were my favourites. The shops stocked mountain honey, Georgian spices and fruit jams, while the ones selling churchkhela were the most colourful. Strings of walnuts coated in thickened grape juice hung in front of the shops, making them easy to identify.

So far, not a single shop had offered samples, but eventually, one shopkeeper, a mother of two, shared some churchkhela. The walnuts were crunchy, and the sweet coating didn’t deliver an instant sugar rush. Her son kept cycling nearby while I bought a few strings in flavours including orange, strawberry, chocolate and kiwi.

Pine-cone jam, made by cooking tender young pine cones in sugar syrup, and tklapi, or fruit leather, were equally intriguing. However, having bought enough souvenirs, I gave them a miss.

Flavours Of Borjomi

Eating churchkhela had made me hungry, which meant it was time for a meal at the all-day dining restaurant at Crowne Plaza Borjomi by IHG. While the restaurant serves both Georgian and international cuisine, Georgian dishes offered an opportunity to sample some of the country’s distinctive flavours. Before the food arrived, a glass bottle of Borjomi mineral water was placed on the table.

The spread included Lobio Ojakhurad, a skillet preparation of beans cooked with aromatic Georgian spices. The dish had a mild flavour, with the taste of the beans coming through without being overpowered by the spices.

Mushrooms on Ketsi featured oyster mushrooms prepared and served in a clay pan. Their meaty texture was complemented by a subtle smoky flavour. The non-vegetarian dishes included Ghor-Mutsela, a combination of pork belly and green beans, and Kubdari, a meat-filled pie.

The cold appetiser was a highlight of the meal. Served on a ceramic plate, it included two pkhali balls, one made with spinach and the other with beetroot. Both contained ground walnuts, which lent a creamy texture to the fresh spinach and balanced the sweetness of the beetroot.

There were also badrijani nigvzit, or eggplant rolls, in which finely sliced fried eggplant was wrapped around a walnut filling. The soft texture of the eggplant contrasted with the graininess of the walnuts.

The Mushrooms on Ketsi and pkhali balls were the standouts. The best way to relish the meal is with a glass or two of Borjomi mineral water, which became popular during the Russian imperial period and remains one of Georgia’s best-known exports.

How To Get To Borjomi, Georgia

Turkish Airlines, Air Arabia and Azerbaijan Airlines operate flights to Tbilisi. From the Georgian capital, Borjomi is approximately 165 kilometres away and can be reached by a scenic three-hour drive.

FAQs