Brewing Tea Trails And Himalayan Adventures With Neil Law

“Darjeeling holds a special place in my heart for many reasons,” says Neil Law in an exclusive conversation with Outlook Traveller. “As a schoolboy at La Martiniere, I travelled there every other year to play football, and that tradition made me fall in love with the area. I even dreamed of marrying a woman from Darjeeling! Coincidentally, I met my wife there—though she is from the neighbouring town of Gangtok—which adds to the nostalgia of my visits.”

Kolkata-based Law is a storyteller, weaving his extensive knowledge of tea, colonial history, and the Himalayas into curated immersive tours. With a passion for uncovering hidden gems and a talent for creating meaningful connections, Law’s journeys offer more than just sightseeing; they tell a story.

Travellers can choose from several options. For instance, the Colonial Land Rover Safari takes guests on a journey through time, including an exciting ride in a classic Land Rover to Sandakphu—the highest motorable point in West Bengal. The tea tour delves into the rich culture of Darjeeling’s tea estates. Supporting small growers, this experience walks travellers through every step of tea-making, from hand-plucked leaves to the first sip of an aromatic brew. The Sikkim tour showcases the heart and soul of this Himalayan paradise. Married to a Sikkimese, Law provides a unique insider’s perspective, guiding guests through serene monasteries, traditional villages, and breathtaking landscapes.

The Beginning

Law's adventures with travel began in 1997 while he was taking a break from his office automation business. "I travelled to Darjeeling and Sikkim for a trek. I was so captivated by the people and the beauty of the region that, upon returning to Kolkata, I decided to sell my business and move to the hills to start a tourism venture."

Starting a tourism business in Sikkim wasn’t easy, so his friends advised him to lease a hotel as a foundation for building his enterprise. In 1998, he took a long lease on a hotel called Mt. Simvo and began his journey in the industry. Over the next few years, he organised treks to Sandakphu, Dzongri, Goechala, and Green Lake, along with adventure activities such as mountain biking, white-water rafting, and rock climbing for corporate groups and international travellers.

Stories From His Travels

Law travels extensively to explore new places, discover markets for his tea and tourism business, and connect with people to expand his network. Some of his most memorable journeys have been solo expeditions to Ladakh, Lahaul, and Spiti, where he drove his 55-year-old Land Rover across snow deserts and high mountain passes.

"My first trip to North Sikkim in 1998 was an unforgettable experience—Lachung and Lachen had no electricity, no hotels—just untouched natural beauty," says Law, reflecting on his most notable journeys. "Another remarkable adventure was my trek to Green Lake in 2010, where we had to literally cut through dense forests to find the route. Upon reaching our destination, we discovered that Green Lake wasn’t a lake at all—it was a vast, snow-covered expanse at the base of Mt. Kanchendzonga. The reflection of the sky and meadows gave it a mesmerising greenish hue, creating the illusion of a lake."

Another fascinating journey took him to Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Assam, and Meghalaya, in search of rare bird species. "Along with my friend Peter Lobo and an excellent birding guide, we ventured into uncharted territories, seeking elusive birds in places like Eagle’s Nest, Roing, Mayodia Pass, Ghosu Bird Sanctuary, and Nameri."

Improvising On The Road

Throughout his journeys, he has encountered many unforgettable experiences, but a few truly stand out. In 2007, he faced the challenge of crossing the mighty Brahmaputra River by ferry. "Loading my Land Rover onto the boat required precise positioning at the edge to ensure it fit within the boat's width. A slight miscalculation could have sent the vehicle straight into the river. This experience demanded careful skill and attention, making it one of the most thrilling moments of my journey."

Another memorable adventure was driving his classic Land Rover to Khardung La Pass. At high altitudes, the thin air caused the vehicle to lose power and overheat frequently. To manage this, he carried 20 liters of water and made regular stops to cool the radiator, moving forward just a few yards at a time. "At one point, I doubted whether I would make it and considered turning back. However, sheer determination kept me pushing forward, and ultimately, I conquered the world’s highest motorable pass."

While driving from Manali to Shimla in his Land Rover, the second gear slipped, making it extremely challenging to navigate downhill. "I needed to fix it to continue, but there were no workshops that specialised in Land Rovers. Eventually, I found a Maruti service center and drove in. Fortunately, I always carry the workshop manual with me, which made it easy to work on the problem. With the help of one of their mechanics, I was able to fix the issue and keep going, despite facing more challenges, like a leaking radiator that I repaired with M-seal compound and running out of fuel at Baralacha Pass."

Tea Tales

Law's journey into the world of tea has been gradual over the years. In 2014, HIDCO entrusted him with creating an ornamental tea garden at Eco Park, Kolkata. Since he was already managing sports activities there and had extensive experience in tourism in Darjeeling and Sikkim, this opportunity felt like a natural fit. Andrew Yule provided the tea saplings, soil from the Dooars, and necessary training led to the establishment of the Yule Tea Lounge—a space offering Darjeeling, Assam, and Nilgiri teas along with a model of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway toy train.

This experience ignited his passion for tea and inspired him to discover and support Small Tea Growers (STG)—independent tea farmers producing natural, handcrafted teas across the North East. As a social entrepreneur, Law has always focused on community-based tourism, helping rural families set up homestays and training youth as local guides. Tea complemented this vision perfectly, enabling him to promote sustainable eco-tourism.

In 2017, Law launched his tea brand, STG TEA (Small Tea Growers Tea), to honour tea artisans and provide them with direct market access. Over time, the brand has developed into a movement that empowers small tea growers in Darjeeling who have often been overshadowed by large tea corporations.

What differentiates STG TEA is its organic, handcrafted quality. The small tea growers he collaborates with use only vermicompost, ensuring flavourful, chemical-free teas. Since these boutique teas are rare, they are not available in the open market, making them even more special.

Heritage Through Walks

Law focuses on creating experiential tours tailored to guests’ interests. He believes that Darjeeling offers incredible resources that enable him to provide unique travel experiences beyond conventional sightseeing. "Since I own a tea factory that collaborates with small tea growers, I started offering tours where guests stay in homestays run by these farmers. During these tours, guests can participate in tea plucking, learn the art of hand-rolling rare Darjeeling tea, and enjoy authentic local cuisine. The day is spent at our tea factory, exploring the tea-making process."

For nature lovers, Law organises forest walks through picturesque pine-covered trails. Adventure seekers can embark on the iconic Sandakphu trek (13,000 ft) in a vintage Land Rover, which offers panoramic views of Mt. Kanchendzonga, Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu. During spring, the landscape bursts into vibrant colours with blooming rhododendrons.

Another unique experience is a stay at Rose Villa, a 102-year-old heritage bungalow owned by veteran tea planter Pakhrin. "His grandson, Jenjhup, has kindly allowed me to host guests there, where they can hear stories from the old plantation days firsthand. The food served is an authentic Nepali thali, presented in traditional brass utensils."

For history enthusiasts, Law offers a walking and storytelling tour of Darjeeling’s colonial past, which includes a visit to Burdwan Raj Bari. Guests have the option to stay in heritage hotels or colonial tea bungalows, such as Ging, Mim, or Tamsong.

"Since Darjeeling has a historic connection with Land Rovers, I personally drive guests around in my Land Rover Discovery, sharing stories and providing a luxurious yet immersive experience," he explains.

High Tea And Momo

In Kolkata, you can often find Law at the cosy Dzomsa, a popular eatery known for its delicious chimney soup, a variety of momo, Chinese cuisine, and an extensive selection of teas. Inside, you’ll see rows of tall glass jars filled with various types of tea, ranging from floral blends to unique combinations. The café also features tea ceremonies and beautifully designed tea sets, some adorned with interesting motifs, such as depictions of Mao. Additionally, there is an impressive collection of travel books and magazines, including editions of Outlook Traveller dating back to the 1990s.

Dzomsa embodies a Buddhist theme and serves as a space for storytelling, Himalayan exploration, and curated experiential tours led by Law. With his wife hailing from Sikkim and his ownership of tea gardens in Darjeeling, Law sought to bring these elements together under one roof. "Dzomsa was born out of my dream to create a place where people can truly experience the spirit of the Himalayas," Law explains. The name "Dzomsa," which means "meeting place" in Sikkimese, perfectly captures the essence of this unique space.

At Dzomsa, Law hosts regular tea-tasting sessions where guests can sample a variety of handcrafted teas, all free of charge. One of his specialties is the Gong Fu Tea Ceremony, a traditional Chinese tea preparation and tasting ritual. He conducts this ceremony at Dzomsa (by pre-booking) and in various cities as an exclusive tea-tasting event in cafés and tea rooms, promoting STG TEA.

Among his future plans is the creation of a unique fleet of vintage Land Rovers, specifically designed to offer experiential discovery tours in the Himalayas. Each journey will feature the rugged charm of classic Land Rovers and include a range of carefully curated experiences, from guided treks through picturesque mountain trails to visits with local artisans and traditional community gatherings. This will ensure that guests leave with not only stunning memories but also a deeper understanding of the enchanting cultures they encounter.