Today, trains are a common mode of transportation around the world and have become an integral part of our daily lives. However, this wasn't always the case. For hundreds of years, artists have drawn inspiration from the railways. Trains have intrigued many renowned painters throughout art history. Kalimpong-based artist Rabindra Rai has been fascinated by the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) since childhood. This passion is evident in his extensive body of artwork, which pays tribute to the DHR, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1999.
Rai has created a series of paintings showcasing the iconic British-era steam engine train amidst various backdrops in Darjeeling. His artworks have been displayed in various art galleries across India.
"Darjeeling ko sano rail hidna lai abo tyari cha, Guard le shuna bhai siti bajayo…("The small train of Darjeeling is now ready to leave, here's the guard blowing the whistle"). This was a childhood song my mother sang to me while carrying me in her arms. My love for the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway started from that time."
Rai is referencing a beloved Nepali children's song about the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, which has echoed across the hills and resonated among generations. The song describes how the small train prepares to depart from the station, with the guard waving a green flag. It then chugs along, whistling, and disappears from view as it passes through the Batasia Loop.
Rai fondly recalls his childhood memories of the toy train, particularly during Dasain (Dussehra), when they would visit his maternal grandparents' home in Darjeeling. "My heart skipped a beat as I watched the train chugging along, its mellifluous whistle something I always tried to imitate. Even today, whenever I see the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a sparkle lights up in my eyes. The child within me dances with joy as I see the train, just as I did the very first time," he tells Outlook Traveller.
"As an artist, I believe there is no greater muse than the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway," says Rai. "Its grand majesty, beauty, and grace consistently inspire me, often appearing in my artwork. While I explore many subjects, I always return to the DHR whenever I have time away from my commissioned works."
He points to the many stories which have been told, the songs that have been sung, and various documentaries and films that have chronicled the beloved DHR. "This little toy train not only transported goods and passengers but also carried with it an entire history, along with the socio-economic culture and ethos of the hills."
The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, commonly referred to as the "Toy Train," is part of the Mountain Railways of India, which include three remarkable rail routes across the country. They have gained the UNESCO World Heritage status due to their historical significance and iconic infrastructure. Established in 1881, this engineering marvel offers a thrilling journey through stunning landscapes, gaining elevation through loops, turns, and zigzags. Regarded as Asia's oldest narrow gauge railway, it begins its 88 kms journey in New Jalpaiguri at an altitude of approximately 100 m (330 ft) and ascends to Ghum at an impressive height of 2,258 m (7,407 ft) before ultimately reaching its destination in Darjeeling.
Rai says he sometimes spends days capturing the train at various moments on its journey. "I see the tracks laid down from the plains of Siliguri to Darjeeling as a necklace on the beautiful hills adorned by the most beautiful jewel. The curves, the contours, the aesthetics of the engine, the smoke, and the vapour are all very magnetic and I try to capture the drama on canvas."
His fascination with the heritage railway often brought him into close contact with others who shared his passion. He recalls a time when he worked as the Resident Manager at the Windamere Hotel, where many friends of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) and enthusiasts from around the world gathered to ride the train and create unforgettable memories.
"During colonial times, some of their grandparents, uncles, and aunts were involved in or witnessed the laying of the original railway tracks, which created a deep connection to the train for many visitors," says Rai. Some guests came simply to experience the heritage railway and learn more about its history.
"One gentleman, whose name I can’t remember, would always arrive with his camera. Just after breakfast, he would set out to photograph the DHR as it chugged along the tracks, a routine he followed every day. Instead of chasing the train, he often sought the perfect spot to capture it coming into view. He would return in the evening for dinner, always wearing a happy, satisfied expression. During his long waits, he was frequently invited by local residents whose homes were nearby. They were hospitable, sharing their lunch, tea, and snacks, as well as stories about the train, which enriched the purpose of his visit to Darjeeling."
His work with the DHR has garnered attention, leading him to be commissioned for artwork by various individuals and organisations. One of his projects involved creating artwork for the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway. The board of the Welsh Highland Heritage Railway provided him with the history of a specific locomotive to enhance his understanding of its background. He discovered that this locomotive had a brief service in India. Built during the Great War, the train served in the war before being sent to India, where it worked on sugarcane plantations and earned the nickname “Tiger.” It is now owned by The Imperial War Museum and has been transferred to Porthmadog, where it operates under the pseudonym 590.
Recently, his work was featured in a book commissioned by the Heritage Directorate of the Ministry of Railways titled "Darjeeling Himalayan Railway: A Journey Among The Clouds."
The signature blue of the DHR, in various hues and shades, is Rai's favourite colour in the palette. He often finds himself purchasing this blue more than any other colour. "Has the signature hue of the DHR influenced me to make blue the dominant colour in the subjects I paint? Well, one may never know," he smiles.
When Rai isn’t immersed in following the DHR, he brings the captivating beauty of the hills to life through his artwork in various locations around Darjeeling. His passion extends beyond his own creations; he loves sharing his knowledge and skills by conducting engaging workshops and classes that invite others to discover the joy of painting.
Rai has created a Signature Toy Train Series, featuring jigsaw puzzles inspired by the "Toy Train" series. His deep connection to Darjeeling is beautifully showcased in these puzzles, which depict the iconic British-era steam engines amidst the bustling streets of the Darjeeling hills. Rai also hosts art camps such as Darjeeling Art Holidays with organisations like Darjeeling Walks.
