Amid corpses, artis, shlokas, dips and diyas, the Ganga river at Varanasi is also given to roaring commerce. Pretty little boats, lit up with dozens of flashing coloured bulbs, slide sweetly among tourists attending evening arti at Dasaswamedha Ghat, selling trinkets and dinky cars and incense, seducing many people into many ridiculous purchases. I fell prey to the charming impudence of a far less attractive boat peddling little brass pots, Rs 50. What&rsquos so special about them Each is filled with precious Ganga jal&mdashwhen you buy it, the boatman pops it into the river and bob&rsquos your uncle. Why bring your own jar to fill yourself when you can pay for the privilege
