After making my way through the busy streets of Pondicherry, packed with yellow and green auto-rickshaws and bikes, I finally found myself staring at a bright yellow-coloured house with an arched doorway. That was when I knew the French quarters had begun. Most commonly referred to as White Town, this part of Pondicherry is nothing like the other lanes that run through it, and everything like any lane that runs through a quaint town in France.
Although it is now flanked by tourists and dotted with cafes and chic boutique hotels, it was once where the French colonists lived until they officially transferred Pondicherry to the Indian government in 1954. Since then, the locals have replaced the French residents, and their houses have been turned into profitable and aesthetic stays.
Each alley that makes up White Town is lined with decades-old houses whose facades are washed with red, blue, yellow and every other bright colour you can think of. Most of these narrow lanes open up to the Promenade, where the Bay of Bengal greets couples engaged in silent conversations, families enjoying stolen moments of happiness, and the one-in-a-hundred solitary beings lost in their thoughts.
To help you soak it all in—from the tucked-away galleries to the little cafes—here's a guide to spending the perfect day strolling the charming lanes of White Town.
After a leisurely breakfast, hit the road while they're relatively empty to capture White Town's beauty. If you're all about upping your Instagram game, a few snaps of the bright walls with arched doorways covered with bright-pink bougainvillaea will seal the deal.
An anomaly among the many cafes that dot the area, the Puducherry Museum stands proud. If you're interested in knowing a bit about the rich legacy of this Union Territory, spending an hour here is a great idea. If there's more curiosity left, you must head to the Romain Rolland Library, also known by its French name, "Bibliothèque Publique," which translates to "Public Library."
Address: Romain Rolland Library, 8, Goubert Avenue, White Town
Located along Casern Street, Le Dupleix's serene lost-in-time vibe is difficult to miss. If you are searching for a fine meal, then the outdoor restaurant at this hotel sets just the right vibe. You can relish some delicious aglio-e-olio while enjoying the bright sun.
Address: 7, Casern Street, White Town
With the rock beach not very far away, it is a must to make it well in time to see the sunset and enjoy a few moments in its warm glow. As the sky turns darker, the streets get lit with vendors selling colourful masks and people taking leisurely walks. The view and the vibe are definitely worth all the hype.
To sit under the stars, surrounded by plants, books and soulful jazz, is the perfect way to end the day. You can enjoy that perfect ending at Coromandel Cafe with delicious food and punchy cocktails. Their harissa tomato macaroni bake is a top favourite among diners.
Address: 8, Romain Rolland Street, White Town
The best time to visit Pondicherry is in the winter months between October to February. The weather remains pleasant throughout the day during this time, with occasional light showers during the winter.
Serenity Beach: This pristine beach is flanked by palm trees and has golden sands and beautiful views of the Bay of Bengal. The best time to visit is during sunset, when everything sparkles in the sun's dying light.
Arikamedu: This is an archaeological site of an abandoned city that flourished as an Indo-Roman trade centre during the first century BCE. Excavations here have uncovered Roman artefacts like amphorae, lamps, glassware, coins, beads made of stone, glass and gold, and gems.
Matrimandir Viewpoint: This golden dome in the Auroville township is a top attraction in Pondicherry. While there are restrictions on guests entering the grounds, visitors can access a viewpoint to the south of the building for a panoramic view of Matrimandir and its surroundings.
The closest city to Pondicherry is Chennai, 143 km away.
This story was originally published in January 2023. It has since been updated.
