Shasvat Shah was just six years old when his parents took him on a pilgrimage to Shatrunjaya Hill in the dusty town of Palitana in Gujarat—one of Jainism's holiest sites. While his memories of that particular trip remain vague and hazy, Shah has returned every year since he became an adult to complete the pilgrimage. The last time the 41-year-old garment manufacturer undertook the walk was in January 2025.
Rising 580 m above sea level, Shatrunjaya is a sprawling complex of nearly 900 temples grouped in tunks (enclosures) along the hill's various ridges. All of them were built in stages across a millennium, a remarkable feat of engineering, devotion, and veneration.
Here, the first Tirthankara (supreme preacher) of Jainism, Rishabhanatha, also known as Adinatha, sanctified the complex. His temple remains the highlight of a pilgrim's ascent, which requires devotees to climb an astonishing 3,750 stone steps barefoot. To reach Shatrunjaya, pilgrims must undertake a strict fast and spiritual cleanse months before taking the first step.
"Many sadhus (holy men) and atmas (souls) have received liberation here. Among them are said to be 23 of the 24 Tirthankaras," said Shah to OT. "People should undertake the pilgrimage annually because only then can they find the inner peace and blessing to achieve the liberation of their soul.”
The Shatrunjaya pilgrimage pauses for four monsoon months, reopening around Kartik Purnima. During this time, Jain monks observe Varshayog or Chaturmasya, staying in one place to avoid harming organisms that flourish during the rains. They focus on meditation, religious study, sermons, and cultivating virtues like restraint and emotional control. This austerity extends to diet, too. As practitioners retreat from worldly affairs to renew their spiritual and divine energies, they subsist on a sattvic (purity) diet of fruits and water. The aim behind it is to cleanse and rest the mind and body.
All this preparation serves a single purpose: conquering the ego. Shatrunjaya translates to "that which conquers enemies," alluding to how the biggest obstacles in life are not external to us but within bodies made of flesh, blood, and bone.
Much like Buddhism and Hinduism, Jainism stresses attaining moksha (liberation) to escape the endless cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. Jains believe that spiritual journeys can help them attain this release upon their death; however, these pilgrimages are not mandatory, and not all Jains perform them.
Once in Palitana, devotees climb up to Shatrunjaya Hill in the early morning hours. Their first stop is the shrine of Jay Taleti, followed by the temples and sacred sites of Shantinath, Rayan Bruksh, Pundarik Swami, and the Adinatha temple.
The biggest obstacles in life are not external but within bodies made of flesh, blood, and bone
Devotees refrain from consuming water or food throughout their ascent and subsequent descent, though drinking water points have been installed every 300 to 400 steps. Most people can complete two to three circuits per day, with some opting for a palanquin as mechanised transport is forbidden.
While many Jains stay in the dharamshalas (guest house) of Palitana for two to three days, ardent worshippers often remain for up to 45 days to complete 99 circuits of Shatrunjaya Hill. Called the Navanu Yatra, adherents who embark on it are allowed only one meal before sunset. Within 48 hours, they must complete seven ascents and descents without a meal or water touching their lips.
The sacrifice required for such an undertaking is mind-boggling, but, for devotees like Shah, enduring this hardship is spiritually satisfying —fasting, silence, and devotion promise liberation to those who complete it wholeheartedly.
The track to Shatrunjaya Hill forks as pilgrims reach the top. The main entrance, Ram Pole, is reached by bearing left, though the best views are to the right, where, on a clear day, you can see the Gulf of Khambhat. Inside the Nav Tonk gate, a path on the left leads to the shrine of Angar Pir, a Muslim saint who protected the temples from a Mughal attack. To the right, the second tunk is home to Chaumukhji, which contains the chaumukh, a four-faced shrine of Adinatha facing all four cardinal directions. This temple, atop Shatrunjaya’s southern peak, stands as the largest and most magnificent, renowned for its exquisite architecture and intricate carvings.
Upon reaching the summit, Shah said that words fail to describe the serenity and tranquillity one experiences. "It feels like one has come to an entirely unique and special place where emotions, thoughts, and opinions change of their own accord."
It is said that even if someone dies on Shatrunjaya Hill, they too will attain moksha and escape the worldly cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. Whatever the truth, this dazzling complex on the highest point in Palitana beckons pilgrims and secular-minded visitors with the promise of transformation and enlightenment.
1. Why is Palitana important in Jainism?
Palitana is considered the holiest site for Jains, with over 800 intricately carved temples on Shatrunjaya hill.
2. How many steps are there to climb Shatrunjaya hill?
The climb involves around 3,750 stone steps, taking pilgrims to the cluster of temples at the summit.
3. How long does it take to complete the Palitana pilgrimage?
The ascent usually takes 2–3 hours on foot, depending on pace, with the full journey including darshan lasting around 5–6 hours.
4. Are vehicles allowed up to the temples in Palitana?
No motor vehicles are permitted. Pilgrims must climb on foot or use a doli (palanquin).
5. When is the best time to visit Palitana?
The ideal time is between October and March, when the weather is cooler for the climb.
6. Are there any restrictions at the Palitana temples?
Yes, leather items and food are prohibited as the site is highly sacred in Jainism.
7. Is accommodation available in Palitana for pilgrims?
Yes, dharamshalas and hotels are available for pilgrims and travellers near the base of Shatrunjaya hill.
8. What is the Palitana Kartik Purnima fair?
It is one of the most important Jain festivals, when thousands of devotees gather to climb Shatrunjaya hill together.
