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Recently, I counted over thirty Indian gins on the shelves of liquor stores spread around the state of Goa. "Surprising, but not improbable," I told myself, marvelling at the wide range of flavours found infused with traditional botanicals in the usually colourless liquor. And then I was invited to the launch of Nisaki, which claims to change colour with every pour. A bright purple shade given by a signature tea blend, fragrant with blooming roses and a touch of refreshing lavender, makes a bottle of Nisaki quite alluring if I am being honest. Gin has been quite the "star of the show" in alcoholic beverages in India ever since the revival of this juniper-based spirit in the subcontinent came around a decade ago. As World Gin Day is celebrated on the first Saturday of June every year (8th June 2024), we dive deep into gin's growing appeal.
The gin market is projected to experience a volume growth of 6.2 per cent domestically by 2025, with the average consumption per person at home expected to reach 0.27 litres in 2024, according to Statista. As Vikram Achanta, Founder & CEO of Tulleeho—a beverage education, training, and consulting company, says, “Gin as a category is in vogue—due to its simplicity, versatility, and low barrier of entry when it comes to production.”
Anand Virmani, the co-Founder & CEO of Nao Spirits, resonates. “When we launched Greater Than in India in 2017, the overall premium gin category volume was still minuscule—only at about 120,000 bottles. But with over one million bottles of the product sold in FY 24, we now comprise more than 25% of the overall premium gin category by volume”, he says.
Gin's roots in India stretch back to the 18th century when British soldiers and officers stationed in the sweltering heat of the Raj sought a refreshing antidote. The classic gin and tonic, initially concocted to mask the bitter taste of quinine—a crucial anti-malarial agent—became a staple. This colonial concoction faded into the background post-independence, overshadowed by the rise of whisky and rum as the nation's go-to spirits.
However, the early 2010s marked a turning point. The global gin renaissance found fertile ground in India, where burgeoning urban sophistication met a growing curiosity for artisanal and locally crafted products. As India's middle class expanded and its cosmopolitan cities embraced global trends, gin emerged as the quintessential symbol of modern indulgence, and not just for women. Achanta attributes this shift to the evolution of Indian consumers’ drinking habits and preferences. “Their willingness to experiment with diverse styles is now encouraging gin makers to be innovative with botanicals and flavours, creating not just luxury and high-end gins, but also everyday gin options”, he explains.
Bhagath Reddy, CEO & Founder of Comte de Grasse that makes 44° N gin in the French Riviera, attributes the friendliness of gin as a cocktail base to its wide acceptance. "Unlike many other spirits, the juniper profile of gin provides a foundation for mixologists and consumers to experiment and create flavour profiles like citrus, floral, spiced, and even fruit."
Local distilleries played a pivotal role in transforming gin’s image from a colonial hangover to a contemporary favourite. Craft gin brands have infused the spirit with distinctly Indian botanicals — Himalayan juniper, gondhoraj lime, Nagpur orange, kinnow, turmeric, mango and even hemp. These brands are distilling the essence of India’s diverse flora into every bottle, offering a sensory experience that is both novel and nostalgic.
Recently, Nao Spirits, the makers of Greater Than and Hapusa, came up with a new limited edition gin called ‘Punk’, that champions authenticity by forgoing artificial additives, opting instead for the essence of hand-picked strawberries from the picturesque hills of Mahabaleshwar. A delicate hint of hibiscus flower and lemon peel adds a refreshing charm to this pink-hued product, launched in April this year. Their innovation extended to a coffee-infused ‘No Sleep’ gin and ‘Broken Bat’, matured with Kashmir Willow in the past.
A creative infusion of local ingredients has resonated deeply with Indian consumers, who are increasingly drawn to products that reflect their heritage while meeting international standards. Jatin Dev Bobb, founder of Baagh gin, says, “The era of mass-produced, generic brands is over.”
“Any modern Indian gin that’s succeeding today is telling a story. We produce our gin in Nagpur, and know the farmers who supply our sugarcane and the orchards that grow our Nagpur oranges. Our label is hand-painted by a second-generation artist from Jaipur, the font is inspired by the classic Mother India movie poster. Today’s consumers value these stories.”
Led by local ingredients, innovation comes with ease. Kumaon & I, a premium provincial gin crafted from unique Himalayan botanicals like Timur and Black Turmeric, along with local citrus fruits like Galgal deserves a mention. Ansh Khanna, Co-Founder of Himmaleh Spirits says “We wanted to work closely with Kumaon’s local community of harvesters, foragers, and distillers to highlight the rich indigenous resources of this region, creating an earthy essence and a mouthfeel that encapsulate the flavours of Uttarakhand.”
The makers of the popular Stranger & Sons brand of gin have tapped into the potential of leading with a product, to become a house of brands, with an expanding portfolio. Vidur Gupta, Co-founder of Third Eye Distillery believes that the gin revolution is now reaching deeper into tier 2 and 3 cities in India, indicating its vast potential yet to be fully realized. He cites the instance of Perry Road Peru, that combined the potent flavour of pink guavas building a familiarity for the audience - that initially was a limited edition but has been impossible for the brand to drop off the shelves.
The evolution of gin is also due in part to the growth in cocktail culture, and the experimentation by bartenders and mixologists. Stranger & Sons has a dedicated cocktail program that includes Gibsons and Gimlets, taking inspiration from the rich heritage of pickling and making cordials in India, "which have been extremely well received and loved by bartenders and consumers in India and abroad", reports Gupta.
The resurgence of gin in India has been amplified by the power of social media. A quirky approach to sleek designs, colourful cocktails and the stories of local distillers—all find a receptive audience online. This visual and narrative appeal aligns perfectly with the desires of a younger, tech-savvy generation that values both authenticity and novelty. Noticing this, Bombay Sapphire launched its global campaign, 'Saw This, Made This' in India. Featuring city-inspired art installations and crafted cocktail experiences, the initiative celebrates India’s artistic heritage.
Gin festivals, tasting events, and gin-centric bars have sprouted in urban centres, creating communities of enthusiasts who revel in the spirit's versatility, like the Gin Explorers Club and India Cocktail Week, where new age brands can engage with the modern consumer for eclectic concoctions.
Collaborations are an exciting frontier in the next phase of gin-culture in India. On the occasion of World Gin Day, AER, the iconic rooftop bar at Four Seasons Mumbai is transforming into an exclusive AER gin week. Crafted and distilled by Stranger & Sons exclusively for the bar, the gin can be experienced in a series of cocktails and serves which best enhance the botanicals and flavour profile of the ‘Spirit of the City by the Sea’.
The future of gin in India looks promising, with sales soaring and new brands entering the market. Global markets are responding positively too. Gin’s journey from colonial times to contemporary India encapsulates a story of reinvention and resilience—one where the past is honoured even as it is reimagined for the present.
Adventurist Spirits' distillery at Colvale village in Goa is open to public for a distillery tour followed by tasting. The makers of Tamras gin opened up the place at a nominal price of INR 1,250 per person. While you cannot yet visit Greater Than's distillery, you can always drop in at Nao's office cum bar in Panjim. MTW Bar & Toasties, launched in mid-December, serves as an office, bar, lab space, and mixology playground. Located on the ground floor of a historic building in Panaji, the office-cum-bar features a striking red wall and a dark maroon door adorned with Goan oyster shell panes, welcoming visitors into its vibrant, red-themed interior.
By Pearl Fernandes, Bacardi India
Ingredients
Bombay Sapphire Gin - 50 ml
Martini Bianco Vermouth - 15 ml
Ice Cream Soda Reduction - 10 ml
Rose water - 2 drops
Salt mist - spritz over the drink
Garnish - Chocolate dusted with shimmering gold
Method
Pour everything together with ice in a shaker and shake well
Serve in a coupe glass over a block of ice. Garnish with chocolate dusted with shimmering gold and sprinkle some salt spritz on top.
Ingredients
Bombay Sapphire - 60 ml
Cardamom flavoured milk - 20ml
Mint syrup - 10ml
Fresh cream - 15ml
Lemon juice - 15ml
Method
Pour everything together with ice in a shaker or use a hand blender.
Serve in a coupe glass over a block of ice. Garnish with a diamond shaped ice dipped in coconut oil.
Ingredients
Bombay Sapphire - 60ml
Mogra cordial with gold dust - 25ml
Method
Pour all ingredients into a mixing glass full of ice.
Stir 20 times. Pour into a coupe glass. Add a sphere of ice.
Spray rosewater over the drink.
