Keep calm, it's Nashik! A handful of humans and lush trees surround the Nashik International Airport. An expansive exterior makes it even more appealing to travellers visiting the city for the first time. The wider you see, the less populated it gets, so spotting the driver was smooth. He chivalrously opened the door and introduced me to the many legends associated with Nashik on our 40-minute ride to the hotel. One goes that the city's name is derived from an incident from the epic Ramayana when Lord Laxman cut off Ravana's sister Surpanakha's nose, meaning 'Nashika' in Hindi.
As we continued our chitter-chatter, he played some Marathi songs on the go to acquaint me with the local language. All those devotional songs validated Nashik's tryst with Lord Ram. The driver began to sing along and asked me if I understood anything. Discerning my unfamiliarity, he paused the music and began explaining the lyrics. I asked him about the significance of 'Panchvati'.
He elaborated that it is derived from 'Panch,' meaning five and 'Vati,' meaning banyan tree, referring to the Godavari river banks where Goddess Sita bathed while being guarded by the five banyan trees in the vicinity. Following the end of their tenth year of exile, Ram, Sita and Lakshman are believed to have stayed for over two years in Panchvati, he added.
I then peered out the window to feel the sun, only to get mesmerised by the striking combination of shop names like Mathura Lodging and Gujarati Chole Bhature, reflecting the diverse diaspora the ancient city is home to. The massive billboards, painted in saffron, had imprints of the Thackeray family, establishing their party Shiv Sena's sweeping presence in Maharashtra.
Awake since 4 in the morning, I impatiently asked the driver to suggest the best Vada Pao joint, and he pointed to the one on the way, packed with customers. This Maharashtrian street food is served with dry garlic chutney and green chilli and is a must-have.
Not many people know that Nashik is also regarded as the 'Varanasi of Western India.' Our first stop for the day was the heritage walk, brimming with historic temples. We started with the Kala Ram Temple, where we were prohibited from photographing its sanctum sanctorum. The temple's name intrigued us, with a fellow visitor instantly asking the guide if it had anything to do with colourism. The guide, a local of the city, immediately pointed to the walls and explained the use of black stone chalk in the temple's construction, which earned it the name.
The existing temple came into being in 1782, replacing an old wooden temple of the lord. Considered one of the finest modern temples of Ram, the temple also has standing figurines of Sita and Laxman.
The echoes of 'Ram Naam' set the vibe of this place, which is also a community complex. Our guide told us how the site serves various purposes. Its courtyard is enough to accommodate 100-150 people. Bhajans, Yoga and politics run in tandem with the spiritual aura of the temple.
The finely crafted carvings of elephants on the black stone signify their role in the bygone years. We took a quick group picture at the grand enclosure and left for the Gora Ram temple. Constructed using white marble, the temple architecture is embodied by woodwork and magnificent gates, an influential trait of Maratha edifices. Moving further, we grabbed a bite at the local 'bhajiya' (fritters) stall. We savoured 'Pav Vada,' a modified version of the staple Vada Pav. This deep-fried snack is soaked in chickpea powder with mashed potatoes filling and is served hot. My taste buds felt a burst of flavour with the signature green chilli adding to the gastronomical experience.
Old Nashik's alleyways speak of a quaint charm, a fleeting reminder of the dynasty days when Peshwa rulers inhabited here. The visual imagery was all vintage and rustic, with balconies and windows standing out. I noticed that all these houses had their windows facing the road, each with at least four windows.
The shops here were named in the local language, suggesting the vernacular connection of the masses to their roots. However, it was the grocery market that caught my attention. Continuing an age-old practice, it still sells vegetables and flowers in portions instead of kilograms.
Encircled by priests and peace seekers, this spiritual city also hosts the Simhastha Kumbh Mela every 12 years at Ram Kund, making it a prominent pilgrimage destination. It is also the site where you see the culmination of life. Amidst tears, grief and ashes, a divine calm enveloped the ghat, showing me the parallels of life.
Our second stop was Zole. An hour-long drive from Nashik took us to this village in Ahmednagar district. With the sun blazing, we were immediately taken to the tent where the villagers had arranged a small function. I spotted this young girl draped in a Paithani saree and traditional headgear, objecting to being photographed and muttering something in Marathi. Our guide then translated that she would appreciate it if we respected her privacy. Hearing those lines filled me with joy and pride at how that young girl, despite the odds, is well-informed and aware.
As I sat there to hear more tales, drums echoed louder, and the girls performed the folk dance with 'Lezim' (musical instrument). Tokens of warmth like garlands made me realise the joy of little things. "We are so happy to have you in our little world," a villager told us.
A comprehensive view of the village showed me houses located distantly from each other. It further revealed to me the dry terrain and its reliance on rainfall. On taking a tour, I saw from a close distance how Zole actively protects its biodiversity through agriculture and eco-tourism. Known for growing wild greens and crops like Naagli (Raagi), the village is an ideal habitat for those seeking nature's retreat.
From organic farming to making handicrafts using locally available materials, it thrives on sustainable practices. With the support of NGOs like AFARM and welfare programmes by IndiGo and Interglobe Foundation Limited, these villages have furthered their actions towards becoming more tourism-oriented.
"Our CSR programs focus on supporting and strengthening these villagers' quality of living in areas such as education and women empowerment. These programs are implemented in partnership with experienced organisations that have reached out to more than one lakh program participants in 18 states," said Sukhjit S Pasricha, Group Chief Human Resources Officer, IndiGo.
However, what stood out for me was the story of self-reliance. I overheard this group of daughter-in-laws from one family discussing how they no longer depend on their husbands. One of them flashed her passbook and said she knew how to withdraw money from the bank. Another one jokingly noted that her husband is now intimidated by her. Their eyes exuded a sense of self-assurance on how they broke the glass ceiling despite their lack of education.
Tribal food festivals are another interesting phenomenon in Nashik. Clusters like Palghar and Raigarh organise food festivals as a revolution against junk food. These food festivals help visitors acquaint themselves with the tribal cuisine. "We are the primary custodians of the forest food. It is our responsibility to preserve our heritage," said Hemlata. These villagers worship Naagli (Raagi) as the crop is believed to be their all-weather friend, including in distressing times like drought.
By selling these goods, they earn a decent income. However, at times, lack of transportation affects their revenue. The hilly terrain of these areas often prevents movement for travellers and villagers. "It happens quite frequently that we cannot deliver our goods due to lack of transportation options. Jeep and bus facilities cost us between INR 250-1000, leaving us with losses. We request the authorities to look into the matter," said farmer Gulab Chaudhary.
