This Mountain Retreat In Dharamshala Invites You To Embrace Slow Travel

The mountains don’t rush you. They don’t try to impress you either. They open up slowly.

I could feel it happening as we drove in. The road curved without warning, lined with oaks and cedar, light slipping through in patches. Every now and then, a burst of rhododendron broke through the green. The air smelled faintly of damp earth. A chai stall appeared out of nowhere, then disappeared just as quickly. Nothing stayed long enough to hold on to, I just kept moving through them.

There was a transport strike underway in Dharamshala—taxi unions and bus operators had pulled back over a shift to an automated testing system. And so, getting to upper Dharamkot wasn’t an easy ride. No clear route to follow, just a narrow, lesser-used road that cut through the hills. And as if it wasn't enough, the skies had turned unexpectedly generous. Unseasonal rain had just swept across northern India. While cities welcomed the cool reprieve, in the hills it translated into slick, muddy paths and roads that ended sooner than expected. At some point, the car just couldn’t go any further.

After an hour-long drive from the airport and a final 15-minute uphill hike, shoes sinking slightly into damp earth, lungs adjusting to altitude, senses sharpening with every step, I arrived.

Perched quietly above it all was Eagles Nest Dharamshala.

Set against a backdrop of layered mountains and drifting clouds, the retreat seemed to exist in its own time zone. There were no hurried check-ins, no background noise of city life trailing behind. Just the sound of wind moving through trees, the occasional call of a bird, and the distant hum of life far below.

The Stay

Eagles Nest Dharamshala spreads quietly across nearly 2 square kilometres at an altitude of about 7,381 ft. The Kangra Valley stretches endlessly below, while the snow-clad Dhauladhar range holds its ground in the distance.

The retreat, rebuilt from the remains of a 150-year-old stone house, carries fragments of its past in the way it sits within the forest, deeply rooted to the land.

That sense of history carries forward into the way Eagles Nest Dharamshala exists today.

Managed by Aashvim Hospitality Services under its BookMark Hotels portfolio, the property currently houses 20 rooms and suites, with the design leaning into warm wooden textures and earthy tones. Large glass panes take centre stage in each room, opening up to the Dhauladhar range and letting the outdoors quietly seep in.

I stayed in one of the suites called “Crossandra,” named after a species of tropical plant. As I stepped in, the doors opened into a cosy living area, with a day bed that doubled up as an extra sleeping space. I found myself drifting there often, sometimes with a book, sometimes with a cup of tea, and more often than not, simply losing track of time.

The space rose gently into an attic, with a glass window set right above in the ceiling that turned into my own private sky at night. I’d lie there, stargazing, and when it rained, I stayed longer, watching droplets gather and slide across the glass, the sound soft enough to slow everything down.

The bedroom carried the same easy rhythm. I sank into the king-size bed after long walks, the soft linens and gentle warmth easing me in, and before I knew it, my body had begun to unwind on its own.

Spaces Meant For Slow Living

Somewhere between the room and the mountains, I found myself drawn to the spaces in between. The lobby changed through the day as light filtered in through the skylight, giving it a different feel each time I passed through. The ‘Den’ stood out as one of the cosiest corners on the property, with comfortable furniture, its wall of books, a fireplace, and lighting that felt just right.

The two recreational rooms carried the same warmth, set up with books, snug seating, and space for games like carrom, foosball, pool and table tennis.

What fascinated me the most was the on-property greenhouse, filled with all kinds of plants and peaceful corners to sit, where I felt like I could linger for the rest of my stay. It wasn’t just a beautiful space but a reflection of how the retreat functions as a whole—close to the land, mindful in small ways. Rainwater is harvested and stored, drinking water comes from their own spring, and waste is thoughtfully reused or recycled. Everything here felt considered and connected to its surroundings.

Dining, Made Personal

Meals at the Eagles Nest Dharamshala were simple yet soul-warming. It felt deeply comforting, almost intuitive. I’d mention what I was in the mood for, and it would arrive just as I’d imagined, cooked with warmth and generosity. The intimate dining room served a thoughtful mix of Himachali and continental dishes, often using home-grown organic produce. I found myself drawn to the simpler, familiar flavours the most. Even in-room dining followed the same ease, with service that was attentive yet unobtrusive, letting everything unfold at its own pace.

Wellness And Activities Integrated Into The Stay

At Eagles Nest, I experienced a unique kind of luxury—one that does not spoil you with excess but gives you enough to feel relaxed and at peace.

‘Balance’, the yoga room, sits tucked amid pine forests, opening out to valleys and drifting clouds, the kind of space you turn to when you need a moment to pause. For those looking to unwind further, there’s a small spa and sauna that offer just enough to ease the body without taking you out of the rhythm of the place.

There’s more to step into if you want it. ‘The Barn’ houses horses for slow trots along the forest trails, and guided treks can be arranged with local staff who know the terrain well. The retreat works well as a base for everything around it, from short hikes nearby to longer treks further out.

On my last morning, the rain returned, much like the way it had welcomed me in. The same winding roads, the same damp earth, only this time I was moving in the opposite direction. As we drove down towards the airport, my car passed the Tsuglagkhang Complex, and almost instinctively, I paused to say a quiet prayer for His Holiness the Dalai Lama’s long life and good health. It felt like the only way to leave.

Somewhere along that drive, it came together for me. I hadn’t done much, no packed itinerary, no rush to see or cover everything, and yet I felt more rested than I had in a long time. The mountains didn’t ask for more, and neither did the stay. It simply gave me the space to slow down, to take things as they came, and to leave with that same unhurried rhythm.

FAQs

1. Where is Eagles Nest Dharamshala located?

Eagles Nest Dharamshala is located in Dharamkot, a quieter area above McLeodganj in Himachal Pradesh, overlooking the Kangra Valley and the Dhauladhar range.

2. How do you reach Eagles Nest Dharamshala?

The nearest airport is Kangra (Gaggal Airport), about an hour’s drive away. From there, travellers must drive toward Dharamkot and complete a short uphill walk to reach the property.

3. What makes Eagles Nest Dharamshala unique?

The retreat focuses on slow travel, offering minimal distractions, nature-integrated spaces, sustainable practices, and panoramic mountain views rather than activity-heavy itineraries.

4. What kind of rooms and amenities does the retreat offer?

The property has around 20 rooms and suites with large windows, wooden interiors, and mountain views. Amenities include a yoga space, spa, recreational rooms, and a greenhouse.

5. What activities can guests do during their stay?

Guests can enjoy guided treks, horse riding, yoga sessions, stargazing, spa treatments, and simply relaxing within the property’s quiet, nature-led environment.