Your first taste of Goa is that salty sea smell that assails you immediately as you make your way out of the airport. But driving by the little villages gives you a sense of peacethese are often places of refuge, away from everyday routines, imbued with a sense of freedom cities can never offer. Away from the mostly-favoured sandy beaches, I headed to Assagao, a village that offered my mobile device no reception. It was the beginning of a magical detachment, of a new Goa experience


