Journey Beyond The Ethereal Rann Of Kachchh

A tap on my shoulder. “The bus will leave without you,” I turned around to find Iqbal frantically pointing towards the distant bus that drove us from the Dhordo Tent City to the White Rann. “It is 8.30. We told you we will leave by 8 am!” Iqbal, the conductor, scolded as we ran towards the waiting bus.

While I tried to keep up the pace with him, I risked slowing down and turning around to catch a final glimpse of the pristine expansive crystal white blanket. I was at the Rann of Kachchh in Gujarat.

This white beauty only unveils herself during the winter months when the water dries up, leaving behind vast expanses of salt flats at the Rann of Kachchh. This is also the time when the four-months-long Kachchh festival or the Rann Utsav is celebrated. People from all over the country and the world flock to the village of Dhordo to immerse in the festivities–including me.

This year, Rann Utsav started on November 11, 2024 and will continue till March 15, 2025. From the moment I entered Rann at 6.30 am to chase the sun as it rose, the white desert pulled me in like a magnet. It was stunning. With the salt cracking under my feet, I walked till everyone behind me resembled the size of ants. My guide Rahul shouted, “It seems like you will walk till Pakistan today!” A small portion of the White Desert also extends to the Sindh province of Pakistan. 

As I looked away, hoping to get a peek into our neighbour’s land, the white salt blended with the blue sky. Everything beyond was invisible to the eye. I wondered if the white expanse makes itself visible from time to time, to remind us of the peace that once existed between the two nations that now share the land. 

This thought lingered in my head as I was reminded of my most favourite lines by the Chilean Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda. 

“For once on the face of the earth let’s not speak in any language; let’s stop for a second, and not move our arms so much. It would be an exotic moment without rush, without engines; we would all be together in a sudden strangeness.”

Beyond The Rann: Places To Visit In Kachchh

Experience Life And Death At The Smritivan Earthquake Museum

While there is no denying that the Rann is the showstopper at the Kachchh runway, a visit to the Smritivan Earthquake Museum in Bhuj is a must. Only a 1.5-hour drive from the tent city will take you to a city that has risen from ruins caused by the devastating 2001 Bhuj earthquake. Like a phoenix, it rose from the ashes and now stands as a revived and bustling city.

Perched atop the Bhujiyo Dungar (that gives Bhuj its name), the Smritivan Earthquake Museum is a tribute to the 12,932 people who lost their lives in the 2001 natural calamity. With seven galleries and 50 check-dam reservoirs that house the names of the earthquake victims, the museum tells the tale of life. 

While it relies on documentaries, installations, and interactive visuals to explain the origin of humans on Earth, the earthquake simulator at the end allows visitors to feel what the people of Bhuj, and many other districts of Gujarat, felt just moments before their lives and homes were reduced to debris.

I entered the museum following a large winding structure made using aluminium and copper katoris or bowls. “It represents the tail of a snake,” said Manoj Pandey, the Director of the Museum. Curious, I dug deeper to find the reason for the peculiar shape.

Nestled at the Bhujiyo Dungar is a Bhujang Dev (Snake God) Temple that holds significance in the history of the city and the lives of its people. Thus, the snake is an important symbol in Bhuj. Intrigued, I continued my adventures to unearth more gems and stories hidden in Kachchh.

Drive Across The Road To Heaven 

“Madam, you are yet to experience magic,” assured Dinesh Ji, our driver, while I couldn’t stop extolling the thought, detail, and sensitivity of the Earthquake Museum and the ethereality of the Rann as a whole. As someone who enjoys pleasant surprises, I refrained from asking him what he was talking about. “I am excited,” I said as I continued to soak in the serenity of the space.

As we drove away from the Tent City, Dinesh Ji signalled, “We will soon drive across the Road to Heaven.” It is a 30-kilometre-long road connecting Khavda to the historical city of Dholavira.

Soon the view outside my window changed. The arid brown fields dissipated in thin air to give way to a long, unending road, flanked on either side by the white plains of Kachchh. It left me mystified, as though I was transported to a dream.

As you drive across the road, you will find locals selling and renting out colourful Chaniya Cholis (traditional Gujarati attire). The reds and pinks of the dresses stand out against the pristine white, creating a picture-perfect visual. Don’t forget to steal a chance to break into a garba dance with these ever-enthusiastic Gujarati locals!

Breathe History At The Harappan City Of Dholavira

As the heavenly drive comes to a close, you are ushered into the 4,500-year-old Harappan city of Dholavira. One look at the ruins and I am instantly reminded of the photographs from history textbooks.

The settlement, which is spread across an area of 100 hectares, is a great example of meticulous planning, progressive infrastructure, and monumental architecture. Past and progress confront each other at this UNESCO World Heritage site. 

I recommend you hire a guide to help you navigate through the different structures at Dholavira. My guide Ganpat, who spoke and walked at the speed of light, memorised each and every detail. He enlightened me about the granaries, the well-planned water harvesting system, the fortified citadel, and even the funeral ground.

The city’s structures stand as a testament to the progress and development of infrastructure that existed more than four millennia ago. Standing quite literally at the edge of a civilisation is humbling to say the least.

Where To Shop

As soon as you plan a trip, it is imperative to have a list of gifts to take back for your loved ones (and yourself!) At Rann of Kachchh, there’s a bouquet of souvenirs to choose from. From hand woven embroidered shawls and copper windchimes to Rogan-art paintings and mud work keychains, Kachchh is a paradise for shopaholics.

Each village in Kachchh is recognised by a different art and craft. Plan a tour through these villages, not only to get your hands on their rich craftsmanship, but also to interact with artisans and bear witness to great skills. Immense warmth comes in as a bonus.

The Vankar community of the Bhujodi village is known for their beautifully spun shawls and stoles. The village is dotted with shops and workshops where you can buy these fabrics. See the synchronised movement of the artisan’s hands and feet as they spin yarn on their large wooden, thread-draped machine. The end result is a testament to their great skill and workmanship.

The Nirona Gramhat (Craft Centre) is a confluence of different forms of crafts from across Kachchh. In one of the many small rooms at the centre, meet members from the Khatri family, who are the last preservers of the Rogan art in India. The exquisite and perfectly symmetrical artworks are a treat.

At another corner of the centre’s open courtyard, Nanji Maheshwari (or nanji) sits on the floor to create symphonic magic. He folds flat sheets of copper into dainty bells like a magician, pausing for nothing. “I feel delighted when a 40-year-old adult becomes as happy as a child with the sound of my bell,” said Maheshwari. 

His shop is full of wind chimes that tinkle and clang with the air. My ‘Nanji bell’, as I call it, hangs in my balcony making the most pleasing tunes.

What To Eat

While a trip to Gujarat is incomplete without enjoying dhokla, fafda, jalebi, and thepla, you must also try a bowl of Mawa at the Malhar Mawa Center in Bhirandiyara. Served in a paper bowl, the slightly over-sweet mawa melts in your mouth before you know it. “We add sugar to milk and spend hours stirring it, till it becomes dark brown,” explained Usman Bhai who spent his entire day scooping dollops of the sweet treat. 

The seven-decade old Khavda in Bhuj is another stop for the spiciest and yummiest Dabeli. Consider yourself lucky if they serve you small cubes of the often sold out Gulaab Paak, a dessert stuffed with rose petals and dried fruits.