The Kutch region of Gujarat is the home of many indigenous tribes like the Rabaris, Mutwas and Ahirs, many of whom continue to retain their nomadic, semi-nomadic and artisan traditions. Among them is the less well-known community of the Dhaneta Jats.
Originating from present-day Iran, this tribe is believed to have crossed into Sindh and Kutch in the fifth century CE. They now live in the Banni grasslands of northwestern Kutch and practise cattle herding. Credible information about their lives and culture is hard to come by because the community is reticent about being photographed. But here's what we know about one of India's most reclusive communities.
The Dhaneta Jats are a landless tribe of Sunni Muslims who earn a living from selling cattle milk. Their pastoral camps are sparsely populated, and make do with what they can find to build their houses, using sticks and stones, old tarps, and beds of hay.
The division of labour in the community follows a pattern many of us are familiar with: the men herd cattle and search for greener pastures through the day, and the women take care of the houses, children and chores. Information on their population is unknown.
According to accounts by Dr Ian Parker, a professor of neurobiology and biophysics at the University of California, Irvine, the Dhaneta Jats “do not appreciate pictures being taken of their women. The women promptly cover their faces, making it extremely difficult to capture their lives and lifestyle on camera.”
This observation is backed up by Chinese author and adventurer Hong Mei, who has travelled extensively in India and written about her experiences in the 2014 book “The Farther I Walk, The Closer I Get To Me.” When she visited the community, she had to first obtain permission from the police officers of Bhuj, as the northwestern area of Kutch is in close proximity to Pakistan.
When Mei reached the Dhaneta Jats settlement with a guide and her photographer partner, she misinterpreted the cordiality of the laughing women and the smiling men.
“Their friendliness is unexpected. Tom aims his camera and the women instinctively hide their faces. The men become angry and shout. They are Sunni Muslims and strictly forbid photos,” she writes.
Parker says his access to the community “was possible only through the close rapport our local guide had built with the tribe over several years. We allowed some time to introduce ourselves and let the women and children grow accustomed to us before bringing our cameras out, but even then our photography time was curtailed and [we] were restricted to shooting with less than optimal light within their thatched hut.”
For anyone who has visited the community, it is the attire and presentation of the women that is particularly striking. They wear crescent-shaped gold nose rings called nathlis, which are as big as their faces and held upright by strands of thread pinned to their hair.
These ornaments are the sign of a married woman and “lend an unmistakable identity to the Dhaneta women,” says Parker.
As they practise Islam, the Jat community of Kutch retains their religion’s marriage and dowry customs. Some among their community have devoted themselves to the study of the Quran, and are known as Fakirani Jats.
But a changing climate is affecting their livelihood, adding to their penury.
“The water shortage and the drought in the area is having an impact on their only possession—their cattle. Greener pastures are rare, far and few,” Parker says.
The Dhaneta Jats live in this arid grassland ecosystem on the outer southern edge of the Great Rann of Kutch. Known for its rich flora and fauna, including 192 species of plants, 262 species of birds, and several species of mammals, reptiles and amphibians, the reserve is protected by the Indian government.
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