“Dear Kasun,
Life must have whimsy to survive.
Best not to take yourself too seriously!”
That was the response I received when I emailed Madame Helga asking if she was available for an interview.
I had heard much about Helga’s Folly (a self-described “anti-hotel” in Kandy, Sri Lanka) and its proprietor, Helga Desilva Blow Perera (a rigmarole of a name, by her own admission). Previous visitors had likened the place to Cruella’s manor or the Deetz House from Beetlejuice.
Once I received the email, I had to visit.
After a train journey, I hired a three-wheeler to get to the hotel.
A concrete building plastered with murals of dancing skeletons and skulls in a background of black and red greeted me. A signboard in all uppercase letters of golden paint pointed the way to the lobby. I passed a painting of a deer-headed soldier and two guardians made of black clay as I made my way.
The room was painted lemon green and pink and adorned with white floral designs that covered not just the walls but the ceiling. The walls were crowded with framed photographs—mostly black and white, their ages unknown. There was no staff at the front desk, only a grinning plastic skeleton wearing a red bandana and a tag that read, “Welcome to our home.” Talk about a strange reception!
“Either you love this place or you run away immediately.” Madame Helga would later tell me. “This is a home first.”
While I waited for someone to turn up, a door to my right caught my eye. “Jane Lilian Vance Grotto”. Curiosity got the better of me.
Just like the lobby, white space was not a thing here as well. A green leaf pattern on a black background dominated the walls and ceiling. A mural of floating heads of a young girl, alongside a blue apparition of a krasue—a spirit from Thai folklore—seemed to watch over the room, bearing the haunting words, “Help Save the Next Girl.”
The Grotto, I eventually learned from a placard, is dedicated to the memory of Morgan Dana Harrington, a young girl who was murdered. Jane Lilian Vance, the artist, was her teacher. This house seemed a place where grief is transmuted into creative expression.
At a hotel, one assumes the room given to be unoccupied. But Helga’s Folly, the “anti-hotel”, kept subverting my expectations once I checked in.
There wasn’t just one occupant, but four already waiting for me on the walls. A woman in red played a flute beneath what looked like a sal tree. From its branches, a monkey hung nearby, gazing at her. To the right of the four-poster bed loomed an apparition, one hand covering its eye and cheek. And at my feet, as I lay down, a smirking Medusa kept watch.
I had heard that every room at Helga’s Folly was uniquely decorated. But two spirits watching over me as I slept were not on my cards.
“Oh, the spirits here are very friendly.” Madame Helga shared the next day during our chat. I did not ask if she meant those on the walls or more ethereal ones, though I’m inclined to think the latter.
In the evening, I trotted down the staircase, passing a hallway where stood a child’s tricycle that eerily reminded me of Stephen King’s The Shining.
The dinner at Helga’s folly is a five-course affair, but I need to tell you about the candelabra and the goblets! The candles here have decades of melted wax on them, dripwork art piled on metal by time. The silvery goblets may have come right out of a medieval inn. Evening and electricity showed the entire place in a strange light. I could now understand the reason for comparisons with fantasy movies.
After dinner, I lingered to explore and soon stumbled upon history etched into the walls: a photograph of Gandhi, once a guest here, and the handwritten lyrics of Madame Helga, penned by Kelly Jones of Stereophonics, whose 2002 visit inspired the song. Every inch of this house seemed woven with stories.
She wore a black kimono, carried a walking stick that resembled a wizard’s staff, and wore sunglasses rimmed with golden gryphons.
“I like sitting in this room," she said about the Green Room (named after the colour of the walls), where we were enjoying our conversation over tea and birthday cake. “The recliner over there was my father’s and my grandfather’s. And this is a photo of my mother. It’s like sitting with my family.”
To call her life eventful would be an understatement. She ran away from her boarding school as a child, modelled for Dior in her youth, and had been married thrice.
“I was going through a rather dark period of my life. At that point, my father encouraged me to paint. Since then, I have encouraged guests who’ve come here going through tough periods to paint their way out of things. Almost all artwork here is by me, guests, or staff members.”
And her mysterious two-line email?
“You asked me for a quote. Those are the lines I like to live by”.
Thank you, Madame Helga, for having me at your house of whimsy.
1. What is Helga’s Folly in Sri Lanka known for?
Helga’s Folly is famous as an eccentric “anti-hotel” in Kandy, Sri Lanka. It’s filled with surreal murals, skeleton décor, candle wax sculptures, and artwork created by Madame Helga and her guests, making it a living art installation rather than a conventional hotel.
2. Who is Madame Helga Desilva Blow Perera?
Madame Helga is the owner and creative spirit behind Helga’s Folly. A former model for Dior and an artist, she transformed her ancestral mansion into a vibrant sanctuary blending whimsy, art, and haunting charm.
3. Is Helga’s Folly haunted?
Many visitors describe Helga’s Folly as having a mysterious or ghostly vibe, thanks to its eerie murals and antique-filled rooms. While some claim to sense “friendly spirits,” the hotel embraces its supernatural reputation with good humour.
4. Can you stay overnight at Helga’s Folly?
Yes. Helga’s Folly operates as a boutique hotel where guests can book unique, art-filled rooms. Each space is distinctively decorated with murals and artefacts, offering an immersive and unconventional stay experience.
5. How can travellers reach Helga’s Folly in Kandy?
Helga’s Folly is located on Rajapihilla Mawatha, about 2 km from Kandy Lake and easily accessible by tuk-tuk or taxi from Kandy railway station. The scenic hill route offers great views of the city along the way.
