Two of India’s most spectacular festivals—Navratri and Durga Puja—take place almost simultaneously every autumn. Both honour Goddess Durga, but the way they are celebrated, the rituals they involve, and the atmosphere they create are strikingly different. For a traveller, the choice between them means choosing between the vibrant nights of Garba and Dandiya in Gujarat, the devotional austerity of North India, or the dazzling artistry and food culture of Bengal’s Puja pandals.

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