Here's How Samrat Som's 'Romance With Bikes' Made Him A Traveller

"My relationship with motorcycling is a romantic one," said Samrat Som. Underlining that he prefers to be addressed as a motorcyclist over a biker, Som likes the idea of a motorcycle that is classic in its looks, capable of doing the job, not being too powerful, and becoming an ally in a journey as inward as it is outside.

As a kid who grew up in the 70s and 80s, Som was influenced by stories of uncharted trails. He realised that self-reliance was pivotal to exploring an undiscovered terrain and that one had to know the machine to discover the road not taken. Then, with the help of some friends who were already riding long distances on their Royal Enfields, Som’s love for motorcycles grew more profound, and it was about ten years ago when he started riding long distances. There hasn’t been any stopping since then.

Motorcycling has made him more of a traveller than a tourist. He believes that overland travel makes one meet people in a different way than flying in and out of a place. Distinguishing overland travels by car and a bike, Som said the former confines the one in a bubble, as they step out only to pick up supplies and fuel. However, in motorcycling, one can’t escape the heat, wind, and rain, making them realise how little we need.

Taking time from his ongoing solo expedition to Colombia, Som spoke with us about his journey across the South American roads and his “romance with motorcycles.”

Riding through the shadows of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges was captivating, with marvelling at the caves on adobe walls where Buddhist monks once lived. The journey included traversing the sparse, arid lunar landscape and navigating through one of the deepest river gorges globally, all while climbing breathtaking heights within the same day.

Upon reaching Lo Manthang, altitude sickness hit me. Nevertheless, the core of rides like these lies in companionship and the unfolding stories. Another memorable journey took me through Portugal, where, despite avoiding significant highways, the generally good roads led us through fogs and clouds with limited visibility. It was just the two of us without backup, exploring small villages and towns, securing last-minute accommodations, and delving into local history and culture.

Currently, I am on a solo ride through Colombia, a diverse and captivating country. It stands out as one of the most varied nations globally, encompassing terrain, people, flora-fauna, and culture. Embarking on a solo journey across borders demands a different level of research and preparation. The overarching idea is to explore as much of South America as possible, but we can discuss it further as I progress through more regions.

The ride to Lo Manthang stands out as the most physically challenging. Limited skills and shaky confidence made the rocky terrain formidable. I am enthusiastically attempting techniques seen in videos that led to falls and frustration. The experience highlighted the importance of connecting with the motorcycle and the surface below, using the core, and remaining relaxed. Riding with experienced riders provided valuable tips and encouragement, emphasising the need to flirt with one's limits for enjoyment. Riding solo across a foreign country adds a different challenge, testing ingenuity and perseverance while delving into the purpose of the journey.

It could also be that I don't know and want to embark on an indefinite journey, following the wind without a specific agenda. Everything else—route, time, choice of motorcycle, gear, tools, spares, tent—becomes more precise with a defined purpose. My only suggestion is to acknowledge that motorcycle trips can be solitary, so packing something for connection, be it a board game, cards, or stories, can enhance the experience unless I prefer evenings spent drinking and editing pictures for social media.

I don't favour the typical American motorcycle culture shaped by long freeways and big cruisers/choppers. It became a parody of the 20th-century biker aesthetic. I prefer the British motorcycling culture with its deep sense of style, embraced by riders and motorcycles. Rockers, Mods, and contemporary artists and designers like Nick Clements and Conrad Leach contribute to shaping the culture. Despite the decline of the British motorcycle industry, the love for motorcycling culture persisted, leading to a balanced sub-culture. I also appreciate Indonesia's diverse motorcycling culture, extending beyond big bikes. People customise small commuter motorcycles, inspiring clothing labels, making motorcycles a significant part of societal expression and journeys.

Riders often transition from larger groups to smaller ones as they gain confidence in their abilities. The challenges of navigating the Guajira Desert in Colombia highlight the need for local guides and support, making group rides a more cost-effective option. The ideal group size is around six to ten members, balancing support facilities and flexibility. Effective tour leads are crucial in ensuring a successful and enjoyable ride.