Journeying On A Tantalising Tea Trail In Sri Lanka

One is never too far away from tea in Sri Lanka, an impression garnered over my myriad visits to this charming island nation. From sipping and savouring aromatic blends at capital city Colombo’s tea boutiques to plodding through the lush tea-scapes of Nuwara Eliya and Sabaragamuwa Province, the sojourns have been as seductive for the senses as a freshly brewed cuppa.

Sri Lankan high tea experiences are also unique, a gastronomic nod as they are to the country’s rich colonial past. At the ocean-fronted Granbell Colombo, nestled along Kollupitiya Beach, the high tea ceremony at its ninth-floor "all-day dining" restaurant is a big draw for the city’s chai connoisseurs. Every Saturday, a bespoke selection of teas with tasty treats—raisin scones, clotted cream, coconut jaggery fudge, mini tuna mayo finger sandwiches, garlic and cashew mini bagels, mini prawn pies, sticky toffee pudding with cashew nuts, among others—is laid out against the backdrop of stunning ocean views. The atmosphere is festive as families laugh, chat and bond, leading one to conclude that tea isn’t just a beverage in Sri Lanka; it’s an emotion.

A Tea Worthy Of Emperors

The southern coastal city of Galle also offers unique tea experiences. At the ocean-fronted Le Grand Galle hotel overlooking the UNESCO heritage site of Galle Fort, a box of gourmet teas from the country’s seven tea regions forms a part of the suite’s luxe amenities. Light to full-bodied; mild to the heavier dark oolongs (woody, earthy, fruity, oxidised, fermented, caramelised), they reflect the country’s breathtaking tea diversity. I brew a fresh blend every morning to enjoy it in my balcony overlooking the azure ocean as waves crash on rocks. Freshly baked, gossamer gold croissants courtesy of the kitchen make for delightful accompaniments to the piping hot beverage.

It was also at Le Grand Galle that I first heard about the famous Handunugoda Tea Estate, a 200-acre tea plantation nestled within the Sinharaja Rainforest. The hotel organises tours to the sprawling estate which specialises in the artisanal production of virgin white tea. The handcrafted blend, made from the tiniest and newest of leaves, is so unique that it is served only at the luxurious tea salon of Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Central Paris. The price? Only USD 1,500 a kilogram!

For a tea so rare, it’s but natural that it’s production is swathed in myths. Legend has it that in a 4,000-year-old Chinese ritual, the tea was picked by virgins wearing white gloves with golden scissors and placed into a golden bowl. It remained untouched by hand. The first cup was offered to the emperor and then drunk exclusively by his court.

Meeting A Third-Generation Tea Planter And Bestselling Author

Till today, white tea remains untouched by human hand even at Handunugoda, as its gracious owner and third-generation tea planter Malinga Herman Gunaratne, informs me when we tour the estate. It is also perhaps the only low-country tea plantation in the world located closest to the sea. The estate also grows rubber, cinnamon, pepper and coconut. Its location amidst a rainforest also makes it home to exotic flora and fauna including peacocks, monkeys, porcupines and deer. Sweet bird songs and the flutter of butterflies over exotic blooms create a sonorous surround sound as we navigate patches of dry leaves on the ground to inspect tea bushes and watch the ladies pluck its leaves.

I notice the collectors pluck the white tea with a small pair of scissors and transfer it to a bowl immediately. Unsurprisingly, while In a large plantation 23 kilograms of tea would be an average haul per day, the yield of white tea is only 150 grams. But its clearly worth its weight in gold as at 10.11 per cent, virgin white tea contains the highest naturally occurring antioxidants in any drink.

Gunaratne, who has been cultivating tea for 60 years, initially worked for large British companies and later for the estate, adding that currently, over 25 varieties of tea are produced at the estate. Interestingly, the Sri Lankan tea legend is also an acclaimed author. His autobiography, "The Suicide Club: A Virgin Tea Planter's Journey," is a bestseller and an engaging read about his life, tea and Sri Lanka, from the days of the British Raj to today. It is also about to be made into a film. His other books include "The Plantation Raj," "For a Sovereign State" and "Tortured Island." The books “For a Sovereign State” and “The Suicide Club” are in their seventh and sixth reprints, respectively.

“The estate has been in the family for over a century,” Gunaratne explained as his butler served a decadent slice of chocolate cake with a “Springtime Oolong Tea” redolent of a gentle, floral sweetness. The octogenarian explained that white tea is crafted from the handpicked buds of the Camellia Sinensis plant. “The picking is restricted to the most experienced tea pickers to avoid damage to the cells within the bud which can cause fermentation and subsequent bitterness. Harvests are typically done early morning, before sunlight triggers photosynthesis,” he explains.  

An Elixir For Health (And Happiness)

Tea session over, we now slide into Gunaratne’s chauffeured Mercedes S class to visit his tea factory where "most machines were brought down from the United Kingdom and are 150 years old, still working smoothly."  Though the estate produces only a small quantity of special teas, Gunaratne emphasises that it’s their health properties that are most important. “We never use any pesticides or insecticides on our crop,” he elaborates adding that he tries to down eight cups of white tea daily "for optimal health benefits."

There’s also a quaint tea museum on the estate’s first floor plastered with sepia-tinted photos of the British era. Tea-related artefacts pepper the room. Downstairs a tea shop sells dozens of varieties of teas including one named (surprise, surprise) "The Suicide Club." I pick up packs of some of my favourites as souvenirs. Every time I brew a cup back home, I’m transported to the magical Handunugoda Estate.

Neeta Lal is an internationally nominated, Delhi-based editor and journalist who has travelled to 75 countries in search of good stories on travel, gastronomy and culture.