Spain wears many faces—and all of them beckon. Some travellers lose themselves in the coastal rhythm of Barcelona and Valencia, where cycling through Gaudí’s architectural dreams or gliding past orange groves on electric scooters is the new pace of city breaks. Others choose to time-travel aboard luxury trains like the Al Andalús, which weaves through Andalusia in 1920s elegance, or the El Transcantábrico, a five-star hotel on rails that hugs the lush northern coastline. Both routes offer indulgence without the footprint of flying.
But for those in search of a more grounded, quietly immersive Spanish experience, there’s another path. One that meanders northward from the capital, bypassing the well-trodden, and embracing green city living, bikeable boulevards, and a love for local. The journey from Madrid to León and onwards to Oviedo is a masterclass in sustainable discovery—best explored by train, bicycle, and brief, thoughtful drives in hybrid or electric vehicles.
This is Spain for the curious. For those who’d rather follow cider trails through Asturias and walk the Camino de Santiago—a centuries-old pilgrimage route—than follow souvenir maps. And for those who know the best kind of travel is the kind that leaves a place just as beautiful as it was found.
Madrid is a city built for walking—and even better for cycling. Its BiciMAD electric bike-share system, run by the city council and accessible via app, lets you pick up and drop off bikes at docking stations across the capital. Glide through El Retiro Park, loop around the Madrid Río urban path along the Manzanares River, or tackle a stretch of the Anillo Verde Ciclista, a 64 km circular green belt that rings the city.
If you're heading beyond the capital, Cercanías Madrid—the suburban rail network operated by Renfe, Spain’s state-owned rail service—connects Madrid to nearby towns with frequent, affordable service. Hop on a Cercanías train to Alcalá de Henares, a UNESCO-listed town and birthplace of Cervantes, where cobbled streets, historic tapas bars, and local markets give a glimpse into traditional Castilian life.
To go further north, board the Alvia from Madrid-Chamartín station—Renfe’s high-speed, long-distance train that combines high-speed and conventional tracks. In under two hours, you’ll be gliding north on clean-energy tracks, with wide countryside views from your window.
León is made for slow travel. The city centre is compact and walkable, filled with Romanesque and Gothic architecture, including the soaring 13th-century León Cathedral, famous for its vast stained-glass windows, and the Museo de San Isidoro, a former royal monastery and one of the most important Romanesque sites in Spain. Its Royal Pantheon, often dubbed the ‘Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art,’ is renowned for 11th-century frescoes that depict biblical scenes and everyday medieval life with vivid colour and astonishing detail.
Wander into the Barrio Húmedo, León’s lively old quarter, where bars still serve complimentary tapas with every drink. Local specialities—like cecina (air-dried beef), chorizo, mushrooms, and the rich morcilla—are best paired with wines from León or El Bierzo, both regions with denomination of origin status. Markets like the Mercado del Conde Luna support seasonal eating and small-scale producers—an essential part of responsible travel.
Cycling here is easy to arrange through city-supported rental programmes or local tourism offices. For a taste of pilgrimage, follow a short stretch of the Camino de Santiago, which cuts through the city and beyond towards Puente Castro or along the Torío River.
From León, continue your journey to Oviedo aboard Renfe’s Alvia or Media Distancia services—both efficient, low-emission trains that wind through the lush northern landscape. The direct ride takes just over an hour, with several departures daily, offering panoramic views of the Cantabrian Mountains.
A comfortable train ride north brings you into Asturias, where lush hills roll towards the Cantabrian Mountains. Oviedo, the regional capital, is known for its cleanliness, sculpture-dotted streets, and cider-pouring culture.
Walk the historic old town, where the Cathedral of San Salvador stands at the heart of the city. It marks the starting point of the Camino Primitivo, the earliest recorded pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. Spanning approximately 320 km from Oviedo to Santiago, the route is known for its mountainous terrain, scenic landscapes through Asturias and Galicia, and relative solitude compared to more popular Camino routes like the Francés. It remains a favourite among experienced walkers seeking a physically demanding yet historically rich journey.
Rent a bike and climb to Monte Naranco, where the Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo churches—both UNESCO World Heritage Sites—offer sweeping views and a window into pre-Romanesque architecture. Back in town, stop by a traditional sidrería to experience Asturian cider culture firsthand—where cider is poured from above shoulder height in a dramatic arc, a technique called escanciar, designed to aerate the drink and enhance its flavour.
From Oviedo, you’re well-placed to take short eco-trips to the Asturian coast. The Media Distancia network connects the city to Gijón, a lively port city, or to Cangas de Onís, gateway to the Picos de Europa National Park, where limestone cliffs, glacial lakes, and stone bridges await hikers and cyclists alike.
Day 1: Explore Madrid by bike: Parque del Retiro, Crystal Palace, Madrid Río, Anillo Verde Ciclista
Day 2: Day trip by Cercanías to Alcalá de Henares (45 minutes)
Day 3: Travel by Alvia train to León (approx. 2 hours); visit León Cathedral and Casa Botines
Day 4: Walk or cycle Camino de Santiago segments; explore Torío River trails
Day 5: Take Media Distancia train to Astorga (approx. 45 minutes); explore Gaudí palace, Roman ruins
Day 6: Renfe train to Oviedo (just over an hour); stroll old town and cathedral area
Day 7: Cycle to Monte Naranco churches; optional Media Distancia trip to Gijón or Cangas de Onís
Spain’s commitment to sustainable travel runs deep—from its world-class rail network to its support for slow food, local artisans, and green mobility. Whether you're drawn to coastal cycle paths, highland heritage trails, or medieval cities powered by clean energy, there's always another route waiting to be discovered. To plan more low-impact, high-reward journeys across the country, explore curated itineraries and resources at Spain’s official tourism website www.spain.info.
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