Perched atop the limestone cliffs of Erusheti Mountain with a view of the Mtkvari River, Vardzia is more than just a group of mediaeval caverns; it is a striking example of Georgian aspiration, spirituality, and bravery. While originally intended as a fortification and sanctuary in the 12th century, the structure thrived under Queen Tamar and withstood various invasions, earthquakes, and ages of quiet to become one of Georgia's most invigorating historical gems.
Vardzia began under King Giorgi III (reigned 1156–1184), who initially carved out cave dwellings and infrastructure. But it was his daughter, Queen Tamar (1184–1213)—often styled as King Tamar in medieval records—who transformed the site into a vast monastic-fortified city, intended as refuge from Mongol and Seljuk threats and a statement of Georgian power and faith.
A folksy legend has it that Vardzia owes its name to Tamar’s childhood cry of “aq var dzia” (“I am here, uncle”) when she was lost among the caves, echoing through the chambers and giving birth to the site’s enduring name.
In its golden age, Vardzia extended roughly about 500 m along the cliff, reaching thirteen floors in some places and containing up to 6,000 rooms. These rooms entailed chapels, libraries, pharmacies, wine cellars, a forge and living quarters. A carefully engineered aqueduct and irrigation system were also in place, channelling water from the river to cisterns and terraced farmland below, allowing spiritual and physical sustenance in seclusion.
Constructed in the 1180s, Vardzia's Church of the Dormition, also known as the Church of the Assumption, is a major landmark. It has a beautiful bell-hung, double-arched portico that is set into the rock itself. The interior features lofty barrel-vaulted ceilings and remarkable murals from the 12th century that feature biblical events and rare portraits of Giorgi III and Tamar. Notably, Tamar is shown unmarried and without a conventional headgear, making it one of the few true-to-life representations of Georgia's fabled monarch.
A self-sufficient, well-organised civilisation is demonstrated by the caverns' refectory, pharmacy, wine cellars with qvevris still buried in the rock floor, and storage chambers. Hidden transit and defence were made possible by a number of secret tunnels and small staircases, including an escape tunnel to the riverside below.
In 1283, a catastrophic earthquake collapsed large portions of the cliff façade, pushing much of Vardzia into ruin and exposing what had once been a secret city. It destroyed over two-thirds of the structure, silencing its defensive and monastic functions.
Despite later Mongol and Persian invasions—and eventual Ottoman control in the 16th century—Vardzia continued as a monastic site for centuries until widespread abandonment. Rediscovered and partly revived during the Soviet era, it now stands as a protected historical-architectural museum reserve, with restoration of frescoes undertaken in collaboration with institutions such as the Courtauld Institute and Georgia’s heritage bodies.
Visitors typically spend around two hours exploring the labyrinthine chambers. Sturdy footwear is advised; some tunnels are dim, narrow and steep. The bell tower, built after the earthquake, offers striking views of the complex, though the original bell was stolen during a raid.
The heart of the site—the Church of the Dormition—requires modest attire: long trousers for men, skirts and head coverings for women. Inside are precious medieval frescoes of religious scenes and monarchs, now carefully preserved.
Nearby is the “Tears of Tamar” spring, a sacred natural drip water source hidden in a tunnel beside the church; pilgrims may taste its reputed healing water.
A short drive brings you to several noteworthy sites in Samtskhe‑Javakheti. For instance, you can check out the Khertvisi Fortress, a dramatic medieval castle perched above rivers, dating from the 10th–14th centuries. The secluded cave monastery of Vanis Kvabebi, carved in the 8th century and accessible via wooden ladders is also close at hand.
The Zeda Vardzia convent, just 3 km upstream, features a modest 11th-century church and rose gardens tended by resident nuns. Further afield lies Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe, offering restored medieval architecture mingling Georgian, Ottoman and Armenian influences, ideal for pairing with a Vardzia visit.
Culinary experiences in Akhaltsikhe and local villages are rich: try Meskhuri khachapuri, apokhti khinkali, tenili cheese, and fresh trout by the riverbank.
Vardzia is located in the Samtskhe–Javakheti region of southern Georgia, near the Turkish border. The nearest town is Aspindza (30 km away), while Akhaltsikhe (around 60 km) is the closest city with more frequent transport connections.
To reach Vardzia:
From Tbilisi: Take a marshrutka (minibus) to Akhaltsikhe (approx. 3–4 hours), and then a connecting marshrutka or taxi to Vardzia.
By car: The drive from Tbilisi takes about 4.5–5 hours via the scenic Tsalka or Borjomi routes.
By organised tour: Many operators in Tbilisi and Kutaisi offer day or overnight trips to Vardzia.
The highlight of Vardzia is the Vardzia Cave Monastery Complex, an extraordinary 12th-century cave city carved into the cliffs of Erusheti Mountain. Originally built as a fortress and later transformed into a monastic retreat by Queen Tamar, the complex includes:
Over 600 cave rooms, including churches, halls, cells, and wine cellars.
The Church of the Dormition, adorned with 12th-century frescoes, including a rare portrait of Queen Tamar herself.
A functioning monastic section, where monks still live and worship.
A network of tunnels and staircases connecting the levels of the cave system.
The best time to visit Vardzia is during late spring (May–June) and early autumn (September–October) when the weather is pleasant, and the region’s landscapes are lush or autumnal. Summers (July–August) can be hot and dry, while winters (December–February) are cold, with snow making travel more challenging.
Khertvisi Fortress (15 km): One of the oldest fortresses in Georgia, dating back to the 2nd century BC.
Rabati Castle in Akhaltsikhe (60 km): A beautifully restored medieval fortress complex with a mosque, synagogue, and museum.
Vanis Kvabebi (10 km): A lesser-known but fascinating cave monastery predating Vardzia, with multiple levels and a commanding position on a rocky cliff.
Paravani Lake (approx. 80 km): The largest lake in Georgia, ideal for nature lovers and birdwatchers.
Visa-free entry: Citizens of over 90 countries, including the EU, UK, USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and India, can enter Georgia visa-free for up to one year.
e-Visa: Other travellers may apply online for an e-Visa through Georgia’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs e-Visa portal.
Passport validity: Ensure your passport is valid for at least six months beyond the intended date of departure from Georgia.