The year was winding down, and like everyone else, I craved a sense of closure, a chance to end things on a high note. The constant urban humdrum of city life felt suffocating. I needed an escape, a place to breathe deeply and reconnect with nature. So, after months of dreaming, planning, and meticulously crafting my itinerary, I decided to trade the concrete jungle for the serene beauty of the Himalayan Foothills – Kumaon. With a heart full of anticipation and a suitcase overflowing with wanderlust, I set off on a week-long road trip, eager to explore this enchanting land of lakes, forests, and mountains. Here is a guide to the best places to visit and things to do in Kumaon.
My journey began in Kasar Devi, a quaint village in the Almora district. The air was crisp and invigorating, starkly contrasting the urban haze I had left behind. As I ascended the winding road, the views grew more spectacular with each bend—rolling hills carpeted in emerald green, terraced fields ablaze with vibrant flowers, and finally, the majestic Himalayas looming in the distance.
Legend has it that renowned figures like Swami Vivekananda and Jim Corbett meditated here, drawn by the unique energy that pervades this place. Located within the Van Allen Belt, a zone of intense radiation, Kasar Devi possesses an almost palpable mystique.
My first stop was the ancient Kasar Devi Temple, perched on a rocky outcrop. It's a simple structure, yet it exudes an aura of tranquillity. I spent hours exploring the temple grounds, soaking in the peaceful ambience. The views from the temple were simply mesmerising. I watched as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky in a kaleidoscope of colours. But Kasar Devi offers more than just spiritual contemplation. Adventurous souls can explore the trails that wind through the surrounding forests, while birdwatchers can delight in the diverse avian life. I spent a day in this enchanting village, walking, sipping on some soul-satisfying ginger-lemon tea, and simply marvelling at the panoramic vistas. Kasar Devi, with its unique blend of mysticism, natural beauty, and invigorating energy, was a great way to start my trip.
After some soul-searching, it was time to get my twitcher's itch, so I drove to Binsar ( about 45 minutes from Kasar), a charming hill station known for its dense oak forests and abundant birdlife. Zero Point, the highest point in Binsar, offers breathtaking views of the Himalayas, including the majestic peaks of Nanda Devi. I spent two days in the mesmerising Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, exploring nature trails and spotting colourful birds. From warblers, thrushes, woodpeckers, flycatchers, and owls to many species of raptors, the forest was teeming with life.
Pro-tip: always hire a guide to take you around these birdwatching trails, as the forest is dense, and you might miss out on some of these avian beauties. Besides the birds, a 16th-century Bineshwar Mahadev Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is a popular stop for devotees and nature lovers, situated right in the middle of the forest with panoramic views of the Himalayas.
Driving about 3 hours from Binsar, I reached my next abode, Sattal. A cluster of seven interconnected lakes unfolded like a shimmering emerald necklace. The air was cool and crisp, the scent of pine needles filling my senses. With only a day to explore this quaint town, I took off to Garuda Tal ( one of the seven lakes in Sattal) for a leisurely boat ride. I visited the ancient Nalagarh Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, which sits serenely on an island in the middle of one of the lakes.
Beyond the lakes, Sattal offers a wealth of attractions. Birdwatching enthusiasts will delight in the diverse avian life with more than 250 species in this area. A visit to the Butterfly Museum and Research Center is a must for nature lovers, showcasing the region's incredible butterfly diversity. The nearby Kainchi Dham, a renowned ashram, offers a serene and peaceful atmosphere for those seeking spiritual solace.
About 45 minutes from Sattal lies Naukuchiatal, prima donna for nature lovers, and my next pit stop was this small town surrounded by the lake. After a morning of hiking and birdwatching in Sattal, I was ready for some R&R. I spent the afternoon strolling along the idyllic Naukuchiatal lake, the earthy fragrance of the surrounding forests and the sight of rolling mountains in the backdrop creating a sense of profound peace. Naukuchiatal offers a variety of activities for all types of travellers. From a boat ride on the lake or just about 3 km to another stunning lake - Bhimtal, relish some local cuisine at Colonel's Cafe or indulge in paragliding and birdwatching.
My final destination was Nainital, the crown jewel of the Kumaon region. The picturesque Naini Lake, nestled amidst the verdant hills, was the centrepiece of this picturesque hill station.
I spent the morning strolling along the Mall Road, a bustling promenade lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. The vibrant atmosphere was infectious, a delightful blend of local culture and tourist charm. I indulged in some delicious local street food, savouring the region's flavours. Later, I took a leisurely boat ride on the beautiful Naini Lake, enjoying the cool breeze and the stunning views of the surrounding hills.
But Nainital offers more than just scenic beauty. I decided to get my adrenaline pumping with a thrilling cable car ride to Snow View Point. The panoramic vistas that unfolded before me were simply breathtaking. I felt like I was floating above the world, the snow-capped peaks seemingly within reach.
Nainital offers many more adventurous options, from challenging treks to Tiffin's Top and Cheena Peak to leisurely hikes through the surrounding forests. The Nainital Zoo is a must-visit for families. At the same time, spiritual seekers will find solace at the Naina Devi Temple, perched on the banks of the lake, and Hanuman Garhi, a temple offering stunning sunset views. For shopaholics, the Tibetan Market is a treasure trove of unique handicrafts and souvenirs.
As I packed my bags after this week-long trip, I felt rejuvenated and refreshed - ready to take on the new year with renewed vigour and a promise to return to this land of mystique and natural beauty sometime soon.
The best months to visit Kumaon are September to December and April to June.
Fly to Pantnagar Airport, located 40 minutes from Kathgodam, and hire a taxi to explore these destinations. Alternatively, take a train to Kathgodam, with convenient options like the Shatabdi Express and Ranikhet Express from New Delhi.
If you're planning a trip to Uttarakhand, here are some great accommodation options to consider. In Kasar, the Kasar Rainbow Yoga Retreat offers a serene escape for wellness seekers. Binsar is home to The Grand Oak Manor, a charming retreat steeped in colonial heritage. For birdwatchers, Birder's Den in Sattal provides the perfect base to explore the region's rich avian life. In Naukuchiatal, ama Stays & Trails promises a comfortable and scenic stay. Meanwhile, Aarish Homestay in Nainital is an excellent choice for those looking for a cosy and personalised experience.