After a long night of restless tossing and turning, I'm still drowsy as I brush my teeth, willing my eyes (and mind) to open fully. It's not that my bed at the Treehouse Retreat at Silky Oaks Lodge hadn't been comfortable—quite the contrary. It's just that my brain refused to switch off from the excitement of being in the rainforest during the night. Not just any rainforest, but the oldest in the world.
With an estimated age of 180 million years—three times older than the Amazon—the Daintree Rainforest is ancient, revered, and supremely biodiverse. It's an essential part of the Wet Tropics UNESCO World Heritage site in Australia's Tropical North Queensland. I'm staying at the eco-friendly Silky Oaks Lodge, which offers an immersive experience by seamlessly blending indoor comforts with the lush wilderness outside. And I'm buzzed to be here.
So it's not surprising that I don't immediately register the quick movements in the bushes just outside the glass doors of my bathroom. When I finally look up toward the crackling sound of the dry leaves, I see a small, furry figure munching on its breakfast. I freeze, fascinated, not wanting to scare the animal away. It's too small to be a kangaroo—perhaps a wallaby?
As it turns out, it's an agile wallaby, one of the more common marsupials in Northern Australia. Still, it's a rare sighting at Silky Oaks Lodge, as General Manager Ben Brown tells me over breakfast soon after. It's a magical start to the day, and I hum in quiet joy as I tuck into my morning meal of avocado on toast at the open pavilion overlooking the Mossman River.
I've signed up for a day-long excursion with Down Under Tours to explore the region. My first stop: the Mossman Gorge Cultural Centre. This land has always belonged to the Indigenous Kuku Yalanji people, and the in-house gallery features informative exhibits on their deep spiritual connection with the forest and a brilliant showcase of their traditional art and crafts.
After a quick gallery tour, our small group takes a shuttle to the gorge with our guide Joe, a walking encyclopaedia on this fascinating ecosystem. The Mossman River flows in gurgling cascades over giant granite boulders, creating shallow pools perfect for wading. Though I don't have time to step into the water, I run my hands through the icy, crystal-clear stream, letting the rainforest energy seep in.
We then hike a boardwalk trail through the gorge. The silence is near-total, only broken by the hum of cicadas, the occasional birdsong, and the distant roar of the river. It's meditative. I understand now why the Kuku Yalanji people consider this land sacred.
Though I don't have time to step into the water, I run my hands through the icy stream, letting the rainforest energy seep in
Our next adventure is a boat cruise on the Daintree River, one of the best ways to see the area's apex predator—the saltwater crocodile. We're told to always keep our hands safely inside the boat. "Salties," as they're locally known, are cunning, lightning-fast, and deadly. Still, we're excited. We spot three crocodiles sunning themselves lazily on the banks, and one of them silently slips into the water, gliding toward our boat with eerie smoothness. The encounter is both chilling and thrilling.
After a riverside lunch, we head north to Cape Tribulation, from where I get a panoramic view of the place where the two UNESCO World Heritage sites of the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef meet.
The next morning, it's time for a different perspective—this time, from above. I'm heading to Kuranda, a hilltop village near Cairns, using the famous Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. As I ascend in a gondola with glass windows and floors, the Daintree canopy stretches below like an endless green carpet.
At the Red Peak station, I join a ranger-led walk through towering rainforest giants, craning my neck to spot elusive birds and animals at canopy level. We stop next at Barron Falls, a dramatic gorge with red cliffs and rushing water, and though it's just a trickle in the dry season, it remains photogenic.
Kuranda itself is a quirky village with boutique shops and studios selling indigenous art and craft. But I skip the shopping and head straight to the Reforestation Nature Park for a deeper dive into the region's ecology. There's an amphibious army duck ride through the jungle and wetlands, followed by a live Pamagirri Aboriginal performance featuring music, dance, and traditional spear-throwing.
But my favourite part? The wildlife park inside, where I meet the wallabies again, along with koalas, a grumpy Tasmanian devil, and the elusive tree kangaroo. The highlight is spotting a cassowary—a massive, colourful bird believed to be a living dinosaur relative. With its electric blue neck, helmet-like casque, and dagger-like claws, it's both magnificent and mildly terrifying. Seeing these unique animals reminds me of the incredible diversity that thrives in this rainforest. It’s a rare chance to connect with wildlife that feels both wild and timeless.
It's said that Sir David Attenborough counts this region among his top favourite places on Earth. "Really extraordinary, and full of great things," he once said. And just like that, I understand exactly what he meant.
The nearest international airport is Cairns, with easy flight connections from all major Indian cities via Singapore.
Silky Oaks Lodge, located by the Mossman River, is a luxury eco-lodge that champions responsible tourism and rainforest immersion.
Explore the Daintree Rainforest, Cape Tribulation, Mossman Gorge, and Kuranda village. Use Port Douglas as your base to combine your rainforest journey with a day trip or snorkelling adventure at the Great Barrier Reef.
