Your Guide To Lodhruva Village, The Ancient Capital Of Jaisalmer

Just five kilometres from Jaisalmer lies a village that used to be the capital of the Bhati Rajputs dynasty. Lodhruva’s landmarks, which include a Jain temple and a wishing tree, are an offbeat attraction for those embarking on their Rajasthan itinerary. The sprawling sand dunes of the Thar Desert lend an air of mystery and magic when one visits Lodhruva.

Here’s what you should know about going there.

An Ancient City

It is said that Rawal Deoraj of the Bhati clan established Lodhruva as his capital in the 8^th century CE. The city stood on an ancient trade route through the Thar Desert, which made it vulnerable to frequent attacks. Mahmud of Ghazni laid siege to the city in 1025 but when the capital was ransacked by Muhammad Ghori in 1152, it was finally abandoned and the capital moved to Jaisalmer.

What the years have left behind still lure visitors today. The Jain temples, which were rebuilt in the 1970s, are the sole reminders of the city’s former magnificence. The inner sanctum of the main temple enshrines a finely wrought, silver-crowned image of Parasnath, the 23^rd tirthankar (Jain teacher), surrounded by fine sculptures. The small sculptures around the lower course of the inner sanctum are badly damaged and bear the scars of Muslim raids long ago.

Before you enter the temple, and just inside the outer gate, is a beautiful archway or toran. The ornate rosette in the centre of the drum of the dome over the mandapa (pillared pavilion) was carved from a single piece of stone. Behind the inner sanctum is a 200-year-old carved stone slab that bears images of the tirthankars’ feet in miniature. The temple compound is said to be home to a pair of cobras—the sight of either is supposed to bring good luck. Other old temples in the area are dedicated to the deities Rishabhanatha, Sambhavanatha, Hinglaj Mata, Chamunda and Shiva.

According to local lore, the city was once a flourishing oasis blessed with abundant water sources. However, a curse is believed to have befallen Lodhruva, causing its wells to run dry. This curse is attributed to a tragic love story involving Princess Mumal and Prince Mahendra, whose ill-fated romance is said to have invoked the wrath of the gods. The story of Mumal and Mahendra is deeply ingrained in the local culture, and it is often recounted through folk songs and performances.

Other Places To Visit

Spend some time refreshing yourself at the Amar Sagar Lake and then head to the nearby Bada Bagh, a garden complex located about six kilometres north of Jaisalmer. Overlooking a mango grove are a set of royal chhatri cenotaphs constructed by the maharajas of Jaisalmer State in the 18^th, 19^th and early 20^th centuries.

You can also check out the haunted village of Kuldhara that sits west of Jaisalmer. It was a prosperous town three centuries ago but is now an abandoned village shrouded in mystery. A variety of reasons have been put forward to explain this abandonment—which commenced in the early 19^th century—from wells drying up to the cruelty of a government official in the Mughal period. Visitors can come here in the daytime to look at the ruins which are a fine example of the architectural excellence of the 13^th century. The village is a protected monument under the Department of Archaeology and Museums in Rajasthan.

Tourists can also engage in a camel safari and jeep ride experience on the desert dunes of Khuri. Be present for the sunset at Lodhruva if you can—its golden hues offer a glimpse of what the place could have looked like back in its heyday.

Getting There

Land at Jodhpur Airport (JDH) and take a taxi, bus or rental car to cover the 277km to Lodhruva. Alternatively, you can take a train to Jaisalmer railway station (JSM).