Through Tides And Mangroves: Inside Bhitarkanika National Park, The Wild Heart Of Odisha

We were sailing into the depths of the Bhitarkanika National Park, the second-largest mangrove ecosystem in the country after the Sundarbans. Our eight-seater jetty navigated through the murky waters of the Khoda creek, and I was perched at the edge with my binoculars. "Madam, look! That is a huge one!" Ghanshyam pointed out, possibly for the sixth time. Bhitarkanika National Park in Odisha is known to have the highest density of saltwater crocodiles in India, so great spottings were not hard to come across.

Since the catamaran could not enter the creeks, we took the jetty to explore them and go deeper inside the mangrove park on the Khoda River and other tributaries of the Brahmani River. The MV Mahanadi catamaran from Antara Cruises was my abode for a couple of days, moored at Dangamal in the middle of Odisha's Bhitarkanika National Park region. The journey to Bhitarkanika was an opportunity to witness the park in all its glory. As we sailed along, we saw a few more crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks, their eyes unblinking and watchful.

Protectors Of The Land

The lush greenery of the mangrove forests stretched endlessly, their roots dipping into the water in an intricate, almost architectural pattern. The atmosphere was quiet, broken only by the occasional call of a bird or the sound of the boat's engine as we made our way down the river. Spanning over 650 sq km, it is a vital habitat for a rich diversity of flora and fauna, including a number of endangered species, such as the saltwater crocodile and several species of migratory birds. The forest is not only an important biodiversity hotspot but also plays a critical role in protecting the coastline from erosion and storm surges.

"There have been big cyclones, but the villages that border the national park have hardly ever been impacted," said Sanghamitra, my guide and companion on the trip. She explained how, during the 1999 cyclone in Odisha, the villagers only found out about the calamity when they saw the bodies of cattle brought in by the sea floating on the river. Last year, when cyclone Dana made landfall in Bhitarkanika, one of the catamarans was anchored inside a small creek for safekeeping. "Not a single scratch came on the vessel, just as I had predicted. You see, these trees protect us from the worst."

Moored In Comfort

When I landed in Bhubaneswar, it was warm for March. But the heat abated over the three-hour drive from the airport to Gupti Village, the starting point of the voyage. As I arrived at the catamaran anchored in the village, the crew greeted me warmly, their faces reflecting professionalism and a deep connection to the land they called home. They offered a brief tour of the boat, which was well-maintained and had all the necessary amenities.

There were two spacious cabins, both simply furnished with queen-sized beds, built-in closets and minimal lighting fixtures. The bathrooms were fully stocked with herbal toiletries, mosquito repellents, and other essentials, which were more than enough for the duration of my stay.

A Different Kind Of Luxury

Recognised as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, Bhitarkanika has been the subject of conservation efforts, balancing ecological preservation with the livelihood needs of local communities.

Every staff member onboard the Mahanadi catamaran was a local. Most of them were from either Gupti Village or other nearby villages. "None of them are professionals, but all of them are hard workers," said Sanghamitra.

Since prospects are slim, most young people from the villages migrate to bigger cities in search of work. Sanghamitra's village, Pokhariyapada, named after the colloquial term for ponds, is known for its skilful plumbers. "Most young men move away for jobs; some of them have even gone to Dubai because they are in so much demand. So now, there are only women and senior citizens residing in my village."

The chef onboard, Sarat, came from one of the more faraway villages. He whipped up delicacies with local produce that would seriously make you doubt his non-professional pedigree. Everything that was served on board had been either grown on a patch of land near Gupti or, in the case of seafood, caught from the river.

On my last night, in the almost eerie stillness of the surroundings, the simple dinner felt like the perfect end to the journey. Sarat cooked up fresh local fish in a butter garlic sauce, accompanied by roasted vegetables, mashed potatoes, and rice. The meal, like everything else on this journey, felt connected to the land and the river that surrounded us. It was the kind of food that didn’t need to be elaborate to be truly satisfying. Up on the sun deck, as I reflected on this surreal experience, which was so simple in every sense but offered such a rich outlook on life, I realised that if you were lucky, you would get to experience more than one kind of luxury in life.

The Information

Tariff

For booking and more info, visit antaracruises.com

Best time to visit

October to March is a favourable time to visit the mangrove.

How to reach Bhitarkanika

To reach Bhitarkanika National Park, the nearest railway station is Bhadrak, about 70 km away. From Bhadrak, you can hire a taxi or take a bus to a river jetty called Kasturikona, from where a boat ride will take you to Bhitarkanika. If you are flying into Bhubaneswar, the airport is approximately 160 km from Bhitarkanika and then hire a taxi or take a bus. Another option is to drive from Kolkata or Bhubaneswar, which should take around 8-9 hours and 3-4 hours respectively.