Famed as the "Kalamkari of Gujarat," Mata ni Pachedi is a traditional textile art form that has its roots in the spiritual and cultural fabric of the Vaghri people of western India. Dating as far back as 300 years, this elaborate art is an important part of the worship of goddesses, or "matas," as well as a channel of artistic expression.
A Gujarati phrase, "Mata ni Pachedi" translates to "backdrop of the goddess,” which accurately describes its main function as a backdrop or canopy in shrines honouring different gods.
The Vaghri people, who led a life along the banks of the Sabarmati River in Gujarat, were excluded from mainstream Hindu temples due to social isolation. To this tyranny, the demographic responded by innovating Mata ni Pachedi, which are movable shrines that allow them to carry out their religious rituals on their own—a unique act of resistance against social maladies. Everywhere the group landed, these cloth paintings were used to create sacred spaces by decorating temporary wooden shrines with images of cherished deities. The practice didn’t simply make worship accessible and easier, but also strengthened the community's cultural identity and fortitude in the face of social exclusion.
Block printing and hand painting are two methods used in the painstaking process of creating a Mata ni Pachedi. To guarantee that the fabric is ready for dye absorption, artisans start with a cotton cloth that is first soaked, then washed, de-starched, and treated with a harda (Terminalia chebula) solution.
The colour scheme is typically restricted to red, black, and white. Alum, alizarin, tamarind, and dhawadi flowers (Woodfordia fruticosa) are natural sources of red hues, while a combination of iron rust and jaggery is used to create black. The white background is achieved by meticulously bleaching the untreated portions of the cloth. Wooden blocks are often used to print repetitive motifs, especially for borders, whereas intricate details and central figures are rendered using a bamboo kalam (pen) or brushes.
A goddess representing shakti, or divine feminine force, is at the heart of every Mata ni Pachedi. These goddesses are depicted in stylised temple-like buildings with a variety of people, animals, musicians, and legendary characters surrounding them. The works are narrative in nature, depicting stories from ancient epics like the Mahabharata and Ramayana, as well as regional folklore and historical occurrences. For example, the Ramayana's golden deer is frequently portrayed as a two-headed deer, modifying the story to fit the available dye colours and artistic norms.
Vishat Mata, considered the ancestral deity of the Vaghri community; Vahanvati Mata, worshipped by traders and seafarers for protection during journeys; Momai Mata (Dashamaa), a protector of agriculture, livestock, and health in the Kachchh region; Khodiyar Mata, thought to foretell monsoon patterns; and Hadkai Mata, revered for protection against rabies, are some of the goddesses commonly portrayed in Mata ni Pachedi artworks. These gods represent the people's longstanding relationships to agriculture, the natural world, and their dependence on divine intervention for safety and wealth.
For the Vaghri community, Mata ni Pachedi is not only an artistic endeavour but also an essential part of their religious and cultural identity. These textiles are displayed prominently during festivals such as Navaratri, converting spaces into hallowed sites for worship and social gatherings. The art form has changed over time to accommodate shifting social contexts and aesthetic preferences; traditional pieces followed a rigid grid-like structure, but modern interpretations have embraced more fluid compositions, and the introduction of synthetic dyes has broadened the colour palette, allowing for greater variation and satisfying contemporary tastes.
With craftspeople creating both contemporary modifications for commercial use and traditional pieces for ceremonial use, Mata ni Pachedi is still thriving today. Bedspreads, wall hangings, and clothing with Mata ni Pachedi motifs have become popular in urban marketplaces, bridging the gap between modern consumerism and rural handcraft. In order to ensure that the rich legacy of Mata ni Pachedi is preserved for future generations, organisations such as the Sarmaya Arts Foundation have been essential in recording and conserving this art form.
Workshops, exhibitions, and partnerships with designers are all part of the efforts to maintain and revitalise Mata ni Pachedi with the goal of giving craftspeople more visibility and financial prospects. By preserving old art forms and their relevance in a world that is changing quickly, these programs not only provide financial support to the craftspeople but also add to India's cultural fabric.
In Gujarat, Mata ni Pachedi is observed at significant religious celebrations and fairs, especially Navaratri, when temples and public areas prominently display these holy fabrics. Religious festivals like the Tarnetar Fair and the Vautha Mela, where devotees utilise these textiles as temple canopies and ritual backdrops, and Ahmedabad, where traditional artists still produce and display their work, are the greatest venues to see them. Beautiful specimens of Mata ni Pachedi may also be found in the textile museums in Vadodara and Ahmedabad, including the Calico Museum of Textiles, which provides year-round opportunities for tourists to learn about its artistic and cultural significance.