Delving Into The Rich Heritage And Production Of Rajasthan’s Leheriya Fabric

Numerous traditional textiles from Rajasthan, a state renowned for its vivid hues and rich cultural legacy, have been woven into the fold of Indian history. Leheriya is unique among them all because of its captivating wave-like patterns that resemble water ripples. This age-old dyeing method, which originated in Rajasthan's royal courts, captures the colourful culture and exquisite craftsmanship of the region. Leheriya is more than just a fabric; it's a representation of centuries' worth of custom, artistry, and meaning. Let us delve into the history, methods, themes, evolution, and sustainable potential of Leheriya in the modern world.

History and Background

Leheriya's roots can be found in the desert kingdom of Rajasthan more than 300 years ago. The word for "wave" in Hindi, "leher," is the source of its name. The distinctive wavy pattern of the fabric is reflected in its name. Leheriya's historical popularity can be attributed to Rajasthan's aristocracy and royalty, especially in the Mughal era, when India's textile arts were at their height. The Rajput kings and queens particularly liked it because of its aesthetic value and association with Rajasthan's arid terrain, which the enormous Thar Desert typifies.

OT spoke to Shah Nawaz Alam, the son of Badshah Mian, an award-winning craftsperson with a successful Leheriya workshop in Jaipur. The old Badshah Mian has taken a respite from his business and entrusted it to his sons, who now look after it. Nevertheless, he is actively involved in the production process.

Alam shared that Raja Mann Singh brought the Neelgar community, known for working with blue dye (later called indigo by the British), from Iran via Afghanistan to India. "He established 36 different crafts, including the Neelghars. Some made blankets called Pinjare or Pindare, while others were bangle makers (Manihars) and utensil makers (Thatheras)," Alam explained. He added that these crafts shaped old Jaipur, where even today, streets like Manihaaron ka Raasta (bangle makers' road) and Neelgharon ka Raasta (dye workers' road) reflect this heritage. "It was all done to promote craftsmanship," he said.

Alam explained that in the past, Leheriya was primarily used for making turbans, followed by scarves (odhni) and dupattas. "Leheriya was never used for lower clothing for a long time, as it symbolized respect and honour. Only royal families could wear it, and pink was their preferred colour," he said. The pink, known as rhodamine pink, was named after "roda," meaning stone in Hindi, as it came from the mines. Alam also mentioned that people used to dye a single piece of clothing multiple times to extend its use.

Since Leheriya was considered a good omen, it became popular among kings for turbans, which could be 11, 51, 101, or 151 square yards long, tying into traditional shagun (good fortune) customs. "Nowadays, Leheriya is more accessible and is even used as a theme for various events. People still enjoy wearing this old fabric," Alam's son added.

The fabric was mainly worn as a ceremonial garment during the monsoon season. The arrival of the monsoon was a cause for celebration in the arid, scorching desert state of Rajasthan, and Leheriya's water-inspired designs were regarded as a tribute to this significant season. With time, it became an essential component of Rajasthani culture and a mainstay in women's wardrobes all around the state, representing joy, wealth, and the abundance of nature.

Techniques and Trades

Leheriya is made using a labour-intensive tie-and-dye method that calls for the deft hands of seasoned craftspeople. To create resistance points, this age-old art form involves folding the fabric diagonally first, then tying it at intervals with threads. After that, the fabric is dipped in dye, which usually starts out lighter and works its way up to darker hues like red or blue. The undyed areas display distinctive diagonal stripes, which appear to flow like ripples in water when the threads are removed.

The use of natural dyes, which were typically made from plant-based materials like indigo, turmeric, pomegranate, and madder, is one of the technique's distinguishing features. Leheriya was originally only made with cotton or silk fabrics, but in order to accommodate changing fashion trends and tastes, a wide range of fabrics are now used, including chiffon, georgette, and crepe.

Alam explained that in the past, the dyes artisans used would make the land infertile and harm animals when disposed of. However, he noted, "With modern inventions and improvements, that's no longer the case. Before 1856, we used only natural dyes; synthetic dyes came in afterwards. These dyes are as harmless as food colours and pose no threat to the environment or animals."

The entire process of making Leheriya is a time-consuming, labour-driven process that requires high precision. The cloth is very durable in spite of its delicate and detailed designs, which makes it a popular option for everyday wear, particularly in Rajasthan's hot climate.

Motifs and Symbolism

The intricate symbols woven into Leheriya's designs are not merely ornamental; they are deeply ingrained in Rajasthan's topography and customs. The diagonal stripes evoke the much-awaited monsoon season by representing waves of water. These patterns are thought to bring fertility, prosperity, and rejuvenation to a place where water is scarce.

Leheriya's colour scheme also has symbolic significance. Bright hues like red, yellow, and green have historically dominated Leheriya textiles, signifying vigour, happiness, and plenty. Certain hues are linked to specific occasions or seasons of the year; for example, yellow tones symbolise spring, while red tones denote marriage and celebration.

Additionally, different combinations and patterns have distinct meanings. For instance, newlyweds typically wear the "mothra" style of Leheriya during the Teej festival, which uses a crisscross of wavy lines to symbolise marital bliss and fresh starts.

Evolution Over Time

Although Leheriya was first used in the royal courts, it eventually gained popularity and became a preferred option for people from all walks of life. Leheriya was mainly worn by women as sarees, turbans, and dupattas during festivals, marriages, and other auspicious occasions during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The fabric changed with the arrival of modern fashion, adopting new styles without sacrificing its traditional character. Indian designers started fusing Leheriya patterns into contemporary silhouettes such as dresses, skirts, jackets, and scarves. As Leheriya continues to develop and meld with contemporary global fashion sensibilities, it continues to be a beloved textile not only in Rajasthan but also throughout India and overseas.

The use of chemical dyes, which offer a wider variety of colours and lower production costs, has been one of the most noticeable changes. However, because of the impact on sustainability and the loss of the original essence of the art, this has alarmed both environmentalists and traditionalists.

Meanwhile, Alam expressed concern about the future of the Leheriya craft as machinery becomes more prevalent. "It depends on how interested future generations are in continuing the craft," he said. He recalled that after demonetisation in 2016, the number of families involved in Leheriya halved from 2,000 to 1,000, as workers didn't receive wages and switched professions out of fear. "Then came GST, which exploited workers further because they were skilled artisans, not financial experts," he explained, adding that this led to even more families leaving the craft, reducing the number to around 500. "The final blow was Covid, leaving only 200-250 families still working on Leheriya," Alam said.