There was a time when trekking in the Himalaya came with a rough sense of seasonal certainty. Spring meant consolidated snow and blooming rhododendrons. October brought crisp skies and stable post-monsoon weather. Ladakh, shielded by the rain shadow of the Greater Himalaya, remained dry through summer. Experienced trekkers and guides knew what to expect, and so did the mountains, more or less. That rhythm is now breaking down.

