Indian Mountaineers Scale Three Unclimbed Peaks In Ladakh; Propose Names Honouring Edmund, Tenzing Norgay And Netaji

A mountaineering team from West Bengal has completed four ascents in eastern Ladakh, including three first ascents and a new route on Chang Chenmo Kangri. The team has also proposed naming the three newly climbed peaks after mountaineering legends Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, and freedom fighter Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose.

For the team from Sonarpur Arohi, the Chang Chenmo Expedition 2026 was an opportunity to explore a remote mountain region with little documented mountaineering history. The climbs, however, came with their share of challenges, from unexpected route changes to extreme cold and water shortages. The team completed all four ascents without fixed ropes or high-altitude porter support.

Four Summits In A Remote Himalayan Landscape

Led by veteran mountaineer Rudra Prasad Halder, the team began its expedition on August 25, 2026. Satyarup Siddhanta, an Indian mountaineer known for his record-breaking achievements on the world's highest peaks, was among the members.

The idea for the expedition came from the team's interest in exploring virgin peaks across India. For several years, Sonarpur Arohi had been scouting climbing opportunities in Uttarakhand, Sikkim, Himachal Pradesh and Ladakh. Chang Chenmo, however, stood out for its remoteness and the possibility of exploring mountains with little documented climbing history.

“What drew us to the Chang Chenmo region of eastern Ladakh was its remoteness, its strategic significance and the possibility of exploring mountains that till date has no documented mountaineering history,” Siddhanta told Outlook Traveller.

The region's proximity to the historic Tibet border had kept it largely inaccessible to civilians for decades. According to Siddhanta, a news report in May 2023 suggesting that areas around Tsogtsalu might eventually open to tourists for four-wheel-drive excursions towards the hot springs, located near forward patrolling points along the modern Line of Actual Control, further piqued the team's interest.

For the team, the next step was to secure permission to explore the region. “We took a chance and decided to pursue the opportunity, approaching the Indian Army and the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) to secure the necessary permissions,” Siddhanta shared.

After months of waiting and follow-ups, the team received the required permissions just weeks before departure. Its aim was to climb Chang Chenmo Kangri and explore three or four virgin peaks in the surrounding mountains, documenting the possibilities for future mountaineering in the region.

Getting to the climbing area was a challenge in itself. Following instructions from the Indian Army, the team had to abandon its original approach to the Chang Chenmo Glacier and take an alternative route, which required an additional transit camp. Base camp was established at around 5,500 metres on September 3. The climbers then crossed a ridge close to 5,900 metres to establish Camp 1 at 5,690 metres beside the glacier.

The team's principal objective was Chang Chenmo Kangri, a 6,536-metre peak. On September 11, nine climbers reached its summit via a new route. The expedition also recorded first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks, approximately 6,400 metres, 6,420 metres and 6,274 metres high, on September 9, 16 and 20, respectively.

The first summit came on September 9, when three climbers reached an approximately 6,400-metre peak. They climbed along its west ridge and descended by the east ridge, completing a traverse. Two days later, nine members began their attempt on Chang Chenmo Kangri at 4.40 am, reaching the summit at 5.30 pm after a long day on the mountain.

The team believed it might have been the first civilian group to climb Chang Chenmo Kangri. However, members received information about a reported ascent by Indian Army personnel on June 10, 2026. As the expedition had not obtained documentary details of that climb, the claim of the first civilian ascent remains unconfirmed.

All four ascents were completed without fixed ropes or high-altitude porter support. The team negotiated slopes ranging from approximately 55 to 75 degrees and used different descent routes rather than simply retracing its steps. The approach required the climbers to rely on their own technical abilities, preparation and judgement.

When The Mountain Demanded A Retreat

Not every summit attempt went as planned. On September 14, eight climbers attempting another peak spent several hours exposed on a glacier at around 5,900 metres. Temperatures fell to approximately -30°C, with strong winds making conditions even more difficult. The climbers used survival sheets and raincoats to protect themselves from the cold.

When snowfall began after daybreak and conditions continued to worsen, the team abandoned the attempt and returned safely to Camp 1. It was a difficult decision, but one that reflected the importance of assessing conditions rather than pressing on towards a summit at all costs.

The expedition continued over the following days. Camp 2 was established at around 5,900 metres on September 15, and six climbers reached the summit of an approximately 6,420-metre peak the next day. On September 20, the participating team reached the summit of a roughly 6,274-metre peak, completing the third first ascent.

Water became another concern during the final phase. The stream near base camp stopped flowing between September 14 and 23, forcing the climbers to find alternative sources. They collected water from locations 300 to 400 metres away and, at times, walked nearly a kilometre while gaining around 100 metres in elevation to gather glacier ice. The ice was brought back to camp and melted for drinking and cooking.

Siddhanta brought considerable experience to the expedition. A software engineer and motivational speaker, he became the youngest person in the world to climb both the Seven Summits and the Volcanic Seven Summits on January 15, 2019, at the age of 35 years and 262 days. His experience across some of the world's most challenging mountains added to the team's collective expertise.

Three Peaks With Names To Remember

The expedition's achievements extend beyond the summits themselves. Sonarpur Arohi has proposed naming the three newly climbed peaks Mount Edmund Hillary, Mount Tenzing Norgay and Netaji Subhas Parvat.

The proposed names honour three figures associated with exploration and India's history. Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first confirmed climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest on May 29, 1953. Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose remains one of the most recognised figures of India's freedom struggle.

The team has received consent for the proposed names from Peter Hillary, son of Edmund Hillary; Jamling Tenzing Norgay, son of Tenzing Norgay; and representatives of the Netaji Research Bureau. The names, however, remain subject to the relevant official recognition process and should not yet be treated as formally established.

The expedition also made time for the local community. Before heading into the mountains, team members distributed educational materials and sports equipment to students at the Government Secondary School in Phobrang on August 31. The village is the last settlement on the approach to the climbing area.

The climbers returned to the roadhead at Tsogtsalu on September 23, and their return to Kolkata was scheduled for September 30.

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