Sitting on my sea-facing balcony with a cup of fragrant herbal tea reaffirms my long-held belief that there is no better place to watch the sun dip below the horizon than the east coast, specifically Puri. The people further down the beach, the boats on the sea, and the birds flying overhead take on a poetic quality as silhouettes against the evening light. The sky is scattered with large storm clouds that have gathered overhead. Churning waves, whipped up by a stiff breeze, crash against the shore. The grey-blue hues of the land, sea, and sky seem to blend together, becoming indistinguishable in this brooding stormy light. Shafts of sunlight break through in places, illuminating the endless shore in a surreal, dreamlike glow.
I am at Taj Puri Resort & Spa, a beachfront luxury hotel that beautifully combines Kalinga architecture with stunning views.
An early morning flight from Kolkata and a drive from Bhubaneshwar airport brought me to the doors of this luxury hotel, which overlooks miles of sandy beach. After enjoying a sumptuous lunch consisting of an Odisha cuisine thali, I had a memorable encounter with the sea. The hotel hosts a Samudra Arati in the evening, along with a captivating performance of Odissi dance. The former though was truly dramatic, with the gorgeous woven textiles of Odisha worn by the priests billowing in the wind and the arati flames flickering high against the backdrop of the surging sea. The staff informed me that the Samudra Manthan, or the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, took place in Puri. Watching the giant waves rush onto the beach, I could believe the claim.
As the storm seemed to pick up strength, we made our way back to the hotel. I had booked a spa treatment for the night, and while waiting in the foyer, I took in the elegant and minimalist decor. The architecture seamlessly blends ancient aesthetics with contemporary design principles. Inspired by the region’s Kalinga architecture, the interiors showcase traditional stonework, complemented by intricate Pattachitra art, Ikat weaves, and terracotta accents, creating an ambiance of timeless elegance.
Locally sourced materials, such as laterite and Khondalite, echo the centuries-old practices of the region. Each space, including the foyer and lobby, is designed to maximize views of the ocean. The buildings, reflecting the region's rich history, embrace a mix of modern design and local aesthetics, with intricate carved motifs paying homage to Odisha's temples. Large windows and open spaces invite abundant natural light into the hotel.
At the spa, I am served a cup of fragrant detox tea made from jaggery, tulsi leaves, and lemon. The Indian aromatherapy massage, accompanied by signature essential oils, followed by a sauna, is incredibly relaxing after a long day.
For dinner that night, I enjoy an indulgent spread at Jaatra, a restaurant situated by the pool that specialises in Southeast Asian cuisine. The handcrafted décor captures the spirit of Bali Jatra, an ancient maritime expedition that connected Odisha to the distant shores of Southeast Asia and Sri Lanka nearly 2,000 years ago. Motifs of sea voyages are prevalent, including a map of Bali Jatra. The ceiling features Vietnamese fishing nets made of bamboo that scatter the lighting in a surreal manner.
The amuse-bouche here is the Jajana Pasara—boat-shaped charcoal tart shells filled with kosila saag, sesame tuille, and savoury khaja—perfectly blending different influences from Puri. The menu has been designed by Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, widely known as Chef Saby, a celebrated culinary innovator. Seafood takes center stage at this restaurant, highlighted by the stunning Khmer Sea Bass Amok. It's a moment of connection as I savour the tastes reminiscent of the lands people once sailed to in the past.
The staff at Taj Puri Resort & Spa informs me that the hotel embraces sustainable culinary practices that delight the palate while honouring the environment. The chefs skillfully use every part of the ingredients, transforming potential waste into culinary masterpieces. They incorporate vegetable stems into nourishing stocks and soups and source their ingredients locally and seasonally. This approach embodies the 'Glocal Way'—crafting global cuisine with local ingredients while preserving resources for future generations. To minimise their environmental footprint, the resort composts leftovers, explores innovative uses for food waste, and repurposes coffee residue as a sustainable alternative to charcoal.
The next day, I wake up to the sunrise over the sea. The hotel had planned a busy day ahead, starting with a visit to the famous Jagannath Temple, one of the four holy Char Dham pilgrimage sites in India. As we approach, the temple’s spire is visible from a long distance. Built in the 12th century AD, this richly sculpted temple is home to three main deities: Hindu deity Jagannath and his siblings, Subhadra and Balabhadra. A temple priest guided us inside, allowing us to see the deities in the sanctum sanctorum.
The idols undergo a variety of rituals from dawn until bedtime, and the opening and closing of the sanctum for visitors is regulated by these activities. The temple is also known for having the world’s largest kitchen, where Jagannath’s rosaghar (kitchen) is located and where bhog (offering) is prepared.
After picking up prasad from the temple, we headed to Raghurajpur, a UNESCO-recognised "Heritage Crafts Village" known for its Pattachitra paintings. As soon as we entered the village, located about 10 km from Puri, we were greeted by neat rows of houses, their walls adorned with vibrant paintings. In this artist's village, homes also serve as workshops. Once renowned as the keepers of Odisha's ancient Pattachitra art, thanks in large part to the late Jagannath Mohapatra, who won the President of India's award in 1965, the village now houses artists practicing various traditional arts.
After purchasing wooden hand-painted figures and Pattachitras, we wrapped up our day with a visit to the Konark Temple, another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Polymath Rabindranath Tagore aptly called it "poetry in stone," and the exquisite Sun Temple in Konark certainly lives up to that praise.
Even though it ceased to be a living temple a few decades after its consecration in the 13th century, it attracts nearly 12,000 visitors every day, many of whom come with devotion in their hearts. Aside from the celebrated temple, the sleepy town of Konark is a stark contrast to the vibrant atmosphere of Puri.
Back in the hotel after an eventful day, I retire to my room. Located on the fifth floor, the room has glass doors that open onto a private patio overlooking the beach. I spend a significant amount of time here during my stay, soaking up the uninterrupted coastal views of the golden sands. It feels like there is nothing between me and the ocean. This truly is the perfect location for a traditional seaside holiday, I think.
Just a short walk from Puri Beach and only 67 km from Biju Patnaik International Airport, the 90-key Taj Puri Resort & Spa offers stunning panoramic views of the ocean and beautifully landscaped gardens.
Dining
Satisfy your taste buds at three dining outlets: Vista, an all-day dining restaurant; Jaatra, a specialty restaurant serving a fusion of Odia and Indonesian cuisine alongside Southeast Asian dishes, all complemented by breathtaking views of the Bay; and Jaatra Bar, where you can enjoy both classic and innovative cocktails.
For those planning grand celebrations, the expansive 14,000 sq ft lawn is perfect for hosting large events and weddings, creating unforgettable moments in an idyllic setting. Guests can also rejuvenate at the J Wellness Circle, which offers wellness therapies inspired by ancient traditions, and explore the state-of-the-art fitness center.
Address: Sipasarubali, Sipasarubali, Plot No: 545/1546, Puri, Sipasurubili, Odisha 752001
Bookings: Email reservations.puri@tajhotels.com. Or call +91 67526 67788
