Pokhran Beyond The Ordinary

This remote region of the Thar desert has more to offer than its history as the test site for India's first underground nuclear weapon detonations
Pokhran Fort in Rajasthan. Credit Shutterstock
Pokhran Fort in Rajasthan. Credit Shutterstock

Famous as the site of India&rsquos nuclear tests, the small town of Pokhran lies on the highway that links Jodhpur to Jaisalmer. It&rsquos 110km east of Jaisalmer and 171km north of Jodhpur. While the chief attraction here is Fort Pokhran, with its museum and heritage hotel, there is a lot to be explored around Pokhran too. 

Pokhran Fort Built by Marwar Thakur, Rao Maldeo in the 14th Century, the fort in itself is a marvel that showcases ancient Rajasthani architecture. Dating back hundreds of years, immerse yourself in history in the wide courtyards, pillars and arched porticos of the fort. It also houses several palaces, namely Mangal Niwas, Phool Mahal, Hawa Mahal and Rani Mahal, along with a temple dedicated to Goddess Durga. The fort also has a museum, where many 14th-century artifacts such as paintings, portraits, weapons and pottery, collected by the royal family over the years, can be viewed. A part of Fort Pokaran was converted into a heritage hotel by the present Thakur and his wife, with the aim of promoting Pokaran as a tourist destination. The rooms are vibrant, luxurious and very tastefully done. 

Ramdevra Temple About 10km east of Pokhran is Ramdevra, the temple built around the samadhi of Bhagwan Ramdeoji Maharaj, revered by Muslims as Ramshahpir or Ramapir. He was a Tanwa Rajput, who was looked upon as a reincarnation of Lord Krishna by the Hindus. Legend has it that five &lsquopir&rsquo (spiritual guide) from Mecca came to test his miraculous powers and after being convinced of them, paid him homage. He is thus revered by both Hindus and Muslims. Ramdeoji took &lsquosamadhi&rsquo in 1459. A tomb was built at the spot and subsequently, a temple was constructed. Every year, a fair is held around August-September, when devotees from all over throng the temple.  

Village safaris from Pokhran Visit nearby potters&rsquo villages, where people specialised in terracotta work, and weavers&rsquo villages, assisted by the Urmul Marusthali Bunkar Vikas Samiti. This NGO was set up in 1991 with the idea of streamlining the production and marketing of textiles woven by its member villages in Jodhpur and Jaisalmer districts. These textiles are woven in the traditional &lsquopattu&rsquo style of weaving, with &lsquokashida&rsquo or ornamentation on the surface of the fabric. While the original was mostly made of wool, Urmul Trust has also started providing the weavers with cotton yarn to cater to urban tastes and preferences. 

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