In September 2023, I visited one of Himachal Pradesh’s most secluded and untouched regions—Pangi Valley. Located between the Zanskar and Pir Panjal ranges, Pangi remains a land of myth, isolation, and unfiltered Himalayan life.
Historically, Pangi, due to its extreme remoteness, was a place of exile for prisoners during the rule of Chamba kings. Even today, the valley remains isolated, cut off by snow for nearly six months. But for me, visiting Pangi was just not another travel plan; it was personal. Guided by Suraj Prakash, a local companion, I lived with families across villages, sharing their meals, stories, and seasonal rhythms.
During the 12-day journey, I mostly stayed in Dharwas village, just six km away from the main town Killar. Luckily my visit unfolded during the vibrant festival season of Jatar, a celebration marking the onset of the long winter. I attended two such Jatars—one in Dharwas and another in Kumar village—where locals gathered to worship their deities. After rituals and offerings, the entire village erupted in celebration with music, dance, and a display of traditional costumes.
Staying with local families gave me the opportunity to immerse myself into mountain life. My mornings used to start with roti made from mixed millets served with butter-laced salt tea for breakfast. I tasted tilmil ka pani or "sacred" water fetched from a natural spring. Stories say that the Raja of Chamba only drank this water, brought to him daily by dozens of workers. Even today, villagers believe it holds healing properties, hence they regularly walk miles to fetch the water.
One of Dharwas’ most striking features is its traditional architecture. In one part of the village, multiple families live under a shared roof; their homes are interconnected like a living museum, speaking volumes of heritage architecture and the community’s closeness. Taking a walk inside felt like I was time-travelling!
During my stay, I also explored Parmar Bhatori and Sural Bhatori, two of the five traditional Bhatori settlements in the valley. Sural Bhatori is especially popular among bikers, and yet words fall short in capturing its raw beauty. These high-altitude hamlets offer a glimpse into a life where survival and serenity exist side by side.
But the real adventure began when we left.
To exit the valley, we once again took the Sach Pass route—the shortest yet most treacherous of three access roads (the others being via Kishtwar and Kullu-Manali). At 14,500 ft, Sach Pass is not just a mountain crossing—it’s an ordeal. That morning, Prakash and I boarded an HRTC bus from Killar, hoping to reach Chamba on the same day. But nature had other plans. A hailstorm hit about an hour into the journey, forcing the bus to stop a kilometer before the pass base. With no vehicles moving either way, all passengers, including us, began walking towards a roadside dhaba, the last stop from where the ascent to Sach Pass begins.
After having a warm plate of rajma chawal at the dhaba, we debated whether to wait or walk the 14 km to the top. Prakash, well aware of the dangers, was hesitant. But I was persistent. Eventually, two other travellers joined us, and we left our bags in a tempo headed the same way. We began our uphill journey post 11 am.
Nothing could have prepared me for what came next. The hail-slicked trail was unforgiving. My shoes slipped constantly; the wind howled like a warning. At one point, I was paralyzed with fear, unsure if my next step would send me tumbling into the abyss. But Prakash never left my side. When we reached a particularly perilous stony patch, I begged to switch to the main road, even though it would take longer. The weather was worsening, time was slipping, and every turn felt like a new test. Luckily, after an hour of walking, a cab stopped to offer us a ride. We hitched a ride.
But the relief was short-lived. Just a few bends later, visibility dropped to less than ten meters. The road disappeared into a blur of white. And, at one bend, the cab gave up—unable to move. We all got out to push the vehicle uphill but no luck. And just like that, we were walking again.
The final two-three kms to the top of Sach Pass were the most surreal of my life. Snow had swallowed the landscape. The green valley, the forest trail I had seen earlier, was now buried under white sheets. With every step, I felt both more alive and more fragile. It was past 3 PM when we finally reached the top. I had walked, slipped, cried, panicked—and made it. At 14,500 ft, with my shoes drenched, I stood—exhausted and shaking—before a tiny tea shop with fire inside We warmed ourselves, sipped tea, and laughed at our madness. Later, a cab took us down to Bairagarh, where our bags were waiting. We spent the night there, and returned to Chamba the next morning.
Even now, I can close my eyes and return to that landscape—half-beast, half-blessing. What began as a cultural trip ended in a full-blown test of spirit. Pangi taught me that the Himalayas don’t just offer pretty views. They reveal something deeper: humility, resilience, and a renewed sense of what it means to be alive. The mountains don’t just test your strength—they reshape your spirit.
The Pathankot-Dalhousie Road is the most direct route to Sach Pass. Pathankot is 250 km away from Sach Pass.
Near Sach Pass, you can visit Khajjiar, a small hill station in the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary, known for its beautiful scenery and trekking opportunities. Dainkund Peak, the highest point in Dalhousie, offers stunning views of the surrounding valleys and mountains. One can also visit Chamera Lake and Ganji Pahari for additional scenic beauty.
Trekking: Sach Pass is a popular destination for trekking, offering routes through thick forests, past cascading waterfalls, and with expansive vistas.
Driving/Biking: The pass is a favourite route for adventure motorcyclists and those seeking a road adventure.
Pangi Valley Exploration: Sach Pass connects Dalhousie to Pangi Valley, a remote and rugged area home to traditional villages and stunning alpine landscapes.
Cultural Experience: Explore the ancient temples and sacred sites along the route.
Typically, no special permits are required for Indian tourists to visit Sach Pass. However, it's always best to check with local authorities for the latest information before planning a trip.
