Fans of George Orwell, one of the giants of the English literary scene whose books continue to resonate today, will soon be marking his birthday on June 25. The day is an opportunity to engage with the work of a novelist, poet, essayist, journalist and critic who was vehemently opposed to all forms of totalitarianism.
Best known for his novels “Animal Farm” (1945) and “Nineteen Eighty-Four” (1949), Orwell, born Eric Arthur Blair in Motihari, India, left a lasting mark on the English language and broader culture thanks to neologisms like “Big Brother,” “Thought Police” and “Room 101.” In fact, the novelist wrote “Nineteen Eighty-Four” while suffering from a bout of tuberculosis, a disease that would claim his life at the age of 46.
In an effort to recover from the illness, Orwell took his son, niece and nephew to the salubrious climate of Jura, an island in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland. There, his family stayed in Barnhill, a farmhouse at the isolated northern tip of the island. Today, the building has become something of a shrine for his readers, who arrive from all over the world to see where the famed author lived.
If you’re curious about why Orwell would choose Jura, a sparsely populated island covered in peatlands and mountains, for his convalescence, here’s what you should know about it.
The Corryvreckan Whirlpool is situated off the west coast of Scotland between the islands of Jura and Scarba. Said to be the world’s third-largest whirlpool, it is one of the most dangerous stretches of water around the British Isles.
It is formed due to a mixture of strong Atlantic currents and the underwater topography. As the flood tide enters the narrow area between the two islands, it speeds up and forms a deep hole and a rising pinnacle.
At certain times, the roar is so loud that it can be heard 16 km away. At full strength the currents can reach over 10 knots and produce waves over nine metres high. Visitors will find a number of tour operators in the area offering boat trips to the whirlpool and its surrounding waters, known as the Gulf of Corryvreckan.
As mentioned earlier, Barnhill is where Orwell spent much of 1946-48 writing his seminal book. Overlooking the Sound of Jura, the building is situated in an isolated and peaceful spot, making it an ideal spot for the solitude Orwell craved to do his work.
The four-bedroom cottage is still owned by the family that rented it to Orwell, and you can stay in it too. It remains much as it was back during the author’s time, with a generator for electricity, a small gas-powered fridge, a cast iron stove in the sitting room, a cast iron bathtub and heat from a coal-fired Rayburn, taking visitors back to a more simplistic lifestyle.
The Paps of Jura are three mountains on the western side of the island. These steep-sided quartzite hills with distinctive conical shapes resemble human breasts and are so named (pap is an Old Norse word for breast). The highest of the three is Beinn an Oir, “the Mountain of Gold,” at 785 m. Beinn Shiantaidh, “the Sacred Mountain,” is 757 m high and stands to the east of Beinn an Oir, while Beinn a’ Chaolais, “the Mountain of the Sound,” stands to the southwest and is the smallest of the three at 734 m.
There is a commanding view to be obtained from the top of the Paps on a clear day and it is well worth the effort of climbing one of them, if the weather is settled. One of the simplest routes to the Paps starts from Craighouse, the capital of Jura.
Scotland has nearly 150 whisky distilleries that produce Scotch, a tradition that dates back to 1494. There are a few scattered around Jura too, like Jura Whisky, which makes their single malt concoction with the water that flows from the Paps; the Deer Island Distillers, which make small batches of spiced rum in former bourbon casks that is blended with juice orange peel, raisins and punchy spice mix; and Lussa Gin, a woman-led collective who make their gin from 15 botanicals, ten of which are sourced from the Lussa Glen and nearby hills, lochs and wetlands, woods, and the sea.
With its crystal-clear waters and dramatic coastal scenery, the Isle of Jura has some spectacular wild swim spots. Some of the safest and most popular beaches for swimming include the sandy shores around Small Isles Bay, which is sheltered and offers calm waters, and Corran Sands about five km out of Craighouse towards Knockrome. West Loch Tarbert is a safe sea loch to swim in, and it has a peaceful, calm environment.
You can also check out the beaches of Jura, including Glenbatrick Bay on the northwestern coast, which is surrounded by rugged cliffs and lush greenery and is perfect for picnics, sunbathing and wildlife watching, and Glengarrisdale Bay on the northeastern coast, a remote and unspoiled beach accessible via a challenging hike or by boat.
In Jura, people are outnumbered 30 to 1 by red deer, who have been roaming the island for hundreds of years and are said to have pure bloodlines compared to populations found in other parts of Scotland. The island currently has between 6,000 to 7,000 of them.
Majestic golden eagles and sea eagles patrol the skies. Hen harriers and buzzards frequent the skies as well, looking out for prey in the grass and bracken, and in the evening at dusk. At night, the owls take over this task.
The west of the island is more rugged and mountainous, providing excellent habitats for sea birds such as shags and guillemots that nest on the cliffs and sea stacks. In the bracken you will find heather adders warming themselves in the sun before they go out to hunt for prey such as voles, shrews, mice, frogs, lizards and small birds.
Otters and seals can be found almost anywhere on Jura’s shores, which are almost 185 km in length. While seals can be seen easily at daytime in secluded bays basking in the sun on a rock, otters usually show themselves at dawn or dusk, but they are not easy to spot. Arctic terns can be found on the rocky shores where they nest, while out to sea, skuas and gannets patrol the waters of the Atlantic Ocean.
Besides Barnhill, check out the Jura Hotel, Lorne Cottage, Skerrols House and the Bothan Jura Retreat in the capital, Craighouse. You can also check into the Ardlussa House in Inverlussa, a traditional stalking lodge that can be booked for self-catering accommodation for up to 10 people.
The best time to visit Jura is from May to October when the weather is generally warm and sunny, with maximum daytime temperatures reaching up to 30°C. This period offers the most pleasant conditions for outdoor activities and exploring the island.
Take a flight from Glasgow International Airport (GLA) to Islay Glenegadale (ILY) and then a ferry from Port Askaig on Islay to Port Feolin on Jura. The crossing takes only five minutes and the ferry operates all year.
Once on Jura, you can explore the island on foot, by bike or boat. Hire a bike or bring your own, both by ferry from Islay. However, the easiest way to navigate Jura is by car, especially if your visit is short and you want to see more remote spots on the island. You can use the local bus services or use private hires from the tour operators on the island to get around, too.
