If you get out of Panjim and travel roughly 20 km eastwards, you will come across the small town of Marcel on the banks of the Mandovi River. Here, life unfolds amid stunning natural scenery that is a world away from the bustle of urban life.
Despite its small size, Marcel provides a captivating glimpse into the traditional Goan way of life. Every year, the people here celebrate Chikhal Kalo, a festival that commemorates the playful antics of the Hindu deity Krishna and his companions. Literally translating to “mud bath,” it draws participants from all walks of life and has become a major highlight in the state’s monsoon tourism calendar.
But, what exactly is Chikhal Kalo and how is it celebrated? Here’s what you need to know.
The Chikhal Kalo is first and foremost a religious festival that is exclusive to the town of Marcel. Combining devotion and enjoyment, it takes place on the 11th day of the Hindu month of Ashadh on the grounds of the Devki Krishna temple.
The festival is believed to be a way of thanking the rain gods for the much-needed showers that ensure a good harvest. Thus, its timing coincides with the arrival of the monsoon to ensure that the temple premises are transformed into a muddy terrain, a vital component of the festival.
This is because the main attraction of the Chikhal Kalo is the traditional games like chendu fali (mud ball games), khushti (wrestling), tug-of-war and more that take place in the mud to celebrate the playfulness of Krishna. Participants, regardless of their age, apply oil to their bodies and, guided by chants of “Jai Hari Vitthal,” enter a courtyard to immerse themselves in the mud as instruments like cymbals and drums blare around them.
The mud bath also involves sweetmeats—participants dive to catch puran poli, bananas and laddoos thrown from a platform beneath a fig tree. Young men also engage in the dahi handi, where they form a human pyramid to break a clay pot of curd tied high in the tree, echoing Krishna’s exploits. Besides the fun and games, there is traditional dancing and Goan vegetarian dishes to be savoured too.
This year’s Chikhal Kalo takes place from July 5-7.
On the first day, there will be a cooking competition showcasing traditional Goan vegetarian dishes. This will be followed by a devotional musical program featuring renowned artistes. A spiritual music concert marks the formal inauguration, setting a reflective and soulful tone.
On the second day, the Ashadhi Ekadashi is observed with bhajan recitals and community prayers, bringing together devotees for a day of spiritual connection and cultural pride.
The celebrations culminate on July 7 with the traditional mud games. These activities will be held to the sound of Goan instruments like the ghumot and shamel, creating a joyful and energetic atmosphere throughout the temple grounds.
According to Kedar Naik, the director of tourism for Goa, this festival remains a cornerstone of the state’s efforts to promote its cultural heritage.
“As part of our 'Goa Beyond Beaches' campaign, the Department is committed to curating and promoting festivals like Chikhal Kalo that highlight Goa’s spiritual and rural heritage. This festival is a living example of community-led cultural celebration, and we are proud to support and elevate its reach to a wider audience both within and outside Goa,” he said.
Backwater Cruises: Explore the serene backwaters of Goa on a monsoon cruise. Drift along picturesque waterways, pass quaint villages and enjoy the lush landscapes. Many cruises feature live cultural performances showcasing traditional music and dance.
Trekking In The Forest: Embark on a monsoon trek through Goa’s verdant forests, like in Bhagwan Mahavir Wildlife Sanctuary and Mollem National Park. Pack insect repellent, wear moisture-wicking clothes and keep a raincoat close by. To navigate safely, consider trekking with a group or guide.
Spice Plantation Visits: Goa has numerous spice gardens so indulge your senses with a tour of some of the most aromatic ones. The Savoi Plantation and the Pascaol Spice Village are among the top places to visit to learn about various spices and their cultivation methods. Walk through lush green fields, eat traditional Goan cuisine, and buy spices or herbal oils to take home with you.
This year’s festival takes place from July 5-7 at the Devki Krishna temple in Marcel, Goa.
Marcel is 19 km by car from Panjim, the capital of Goa.
