Goa Statehood Day | The demise of a tranquil Goa is upon us. As real estate expands at an alarming rate, the authentic and laid-back essence of old Goa, where families proudly expressed their heritage in cosy, charming spaces, is being overshadowed and replaced by larger spaces that leave little room for tradition to flourish. The Goan avo who prepared a delicious home-cooked meal sits forlorn, uncherished, and ignored, as does the local taverna.
“City dwellers seek the unique essence of Goa, purchase homes here, and then attempt to transform its character to resemble that of a city,” laments Ayesha Barretto, an RJ and activist. She points out that so much is gradually fading away, from traditional dishes like xit kodi to Goa's diverse music scene and more. Once sleepy villages and quiet streets are now overcrowded. “The warmth and camaraderie that once defined this place have been replaced by a pushy culture, rude behaviour, and a scant respect for the Goa of the past and its people.”
The words of late novelist Umberto Eco, who I had interviewed many years back, ring out loud when I think of Goa: Tourism should move away from the clinical to local and indigenous. That is the key to maintaining its inherent character and retaining the charm of the ubiquitous Goan things, such as the taverna or gaddo, which are fading away. Perhaps it's time to rethink tourism.
A few restaurants in Goa have stood firm against the tide. However, even as the Goa government took cognisance of this lack of local flavour, making it mandatory for beach shacks to sell “fish curry-rice,” the refrain is clear—it is not enough.
Tourism Minister Rohan Khaunte wants to showcase the beach states’ rich cuisine. “The integral role that traditional Goan shacks play in shaping the tourism experience,” he says. “A hallmark of our beautiful coastline, they offer a unique and authentic connection to Goan culture and hospitality, and an opportunity to savour local flavours. Recognising the importance of preserving and promoting Goan cuisine, the government mandates all shacks to feature a dedicated section of traditional 'Goan,' which celebrates local flavours.”
Yet, few shacks are Goan, or cater to a discerning clientele.
If you look beyond the surface of multi-cuisine offerings that dominate Goan eateries, you may struggle to find authentic Goan flavours. Victor Hugo Gomes, an artist, curator, and restorer known for his work with Goa Chitra, is developing a museum dedicated to Goa’s culinary and sensory history. He has also authored a book titled "Where to Eat Goan Food 365 Days A Year." Victor argues that the popular thali is “un-Goan” and notes that many culinary practices have become diluted over the years.
“To preserve this culinary heritage, I am opening a museum that explores the history of Goa, its settlers, and the various castes, and how these factors influence its cuisine,” says Gomes. “Many culinary practices are disappearing. For example, an authentic Goan prawn curry is made with double-ground spices, and xacuti includes coconut flakes. The original chorizo was marinated in coconut feni. However, this practice has been improvised due to the decline in distillers and the lack of toddy tappers.”
Flavel Monteiro, a restaurateur and food curator, released the coffee table book, "Savor Goa," to celebrate the finest Goan cuisine. He has personally sampled and endorsed 46 different establishments. Concerned about the homogenisation of cuisine, he emphasises the importance of preserving culinary traditions. Monteiro warns that unless Goa actively maintains its culinary heritage, it risks following a path similar to that of “butter chicken in the UK.” He advocates for a commitment to preserving the unique flavours of Goan food, much like Italy does with its culinary traditions.
Activism is thriving in Goa, a beacon of hope in the fight to preserve the extraordinary Goan, Portuguese, and Konkan way of life that defines our beloved state. Passionate individuals like Divarkar Marius “Festakar” Fernandes are at the forefront, tirelessly reviving local festivals and successfully rejuvenating over 80 such events. Goa's delicate ecology, too, is under siege from various mafias looking to exploit it. Movements such as “Save Mollem” are crucial in the battle to protect our natural treasures, including the Mollem National Park and Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary. Is it too little, too late?
For those interested in exploring authentic Goan cuisine, several places in Goa still preserve traditional flavours and have garnered great success. In the south, Goan Kitchen offers over 70 authentic family recipes. You can visit Kokni Kanteen, and Mum's Kitchen to try traditional fare in Panjim.
For a Portuguese Goan experience, chef Miguel Arcanjo serves delightful dishes at the Taj Exotica. Jiya's Roo Chik, tucked away in the sleepy bylanes of Benaulim, is a culinary gem. You can enjoy a marvellous authentic Goan lunch at Bhatti Village, a home-turned-restaurant. “Places like these preserve family secrets and sauces, maintaining consistency,” says Flavel.
Places like Horseshoe, Bombil, and George's Bar still hold the charm of old Goa. The chef at Horseshoe serves the best Goan sausage pulav and beef roast—if you're lucky enough to find it open! Brancos, Longuinos, Peeps Kitchen, and Ritz continue to serve delicious flaky chonak or modso, accompanied by sol kadi. Legendary breakfast spots such as Café Real remain popular among locals and visitors alike.
Goa's cuisine is shaped by various cultural influences that need to be preserved. Flavel notes, “Goan Catholic and Saraswat preparations are unique, eaten with poi, unde, sanna or rice. In fact, the tisro (clams) is a Saraswat dish that the Catholics tweaked with spice, and so is the drumstick curry.” Restaurants that focus on reimagining Goan cuisine, such as Chef Avinash Martin’s Cavatina, play a significant role in restoring Goa’s culinary heritage. However, the simple Goan meal or jevan—consisting of fish curry, kismur, fried fish, kokum, and seasonal vegetables—deserves more recognition today.
As the unique Goan vibe diminishes, the tourism sector is also facing challenges. “What concerns us is that most tourists are becoming increasingly disappointed and critical of their holidays in Goa,” says activist, green warrior and café owner Ricardo Pinto Rebelo. This dissatisfaction stems from several factors, including rising prices, overloaded infrastructure, and a decline in the quality of our hospitality—the very foundation of our appeal that is now deteriorating.”
Goans want to see clear intent and purpose in policies, focusing on preservation, says Gomes. “Years ago, when Mathany Saldanha was the tourism minister, the government provided grants to restore old homes, requiring that a part of each house be used for tourism,” he points out. “However, this initiative quickly faded away. We need to address this gap. The tourism department must adapt tourism strategies in response to the global scene. We could look at policies that connect local agriculture with hospitality and subsidise local produce, for instance.”
While the government promotes Goan cuisine nationally and internationally, experts believe the focus should be on preservation. Minister Khaunte recently stated that the government's homestay policy encourages community-driven tourism, authentic Goan experiences, and the transformation of old Portuguese houses into homestays. He highlighted that Goa is flourishing, with numerous smaller restaurants and many old Portuguese houses being converted into homestays. “The government of Goa is actively preserving heritage by refurbishing significant sites, such as the Aguada Jail Museum, and renovating historic homes in Fontainhas, Panaji, under the Smart Cities Mission,” he pointed out.
This is encouraging.
However, if you look around, you see that the rapid pace of development has resulted in the destruction of hills, fields, forests, beachfronts, mangroves, and riverfronts in Goa. As experts have suggested across the world, we do not have to follow this model. Tourism can play a crucial role in preserving local traditions and culture in Goa. The government needs to recognise tourism as a balancing mechanism that can protect and maintain the region's heritage.
This story was first published on December 12, 2024; and it has since been updated.
