Guide to Chandni Chowk | What Delhi used to be in its heyday has received great plaudits and praise from all quarters of the world. Some historians go so far as to find Delhi's only parallel, if at all, in Rome and Cairo.
François Bernier, a French physician and traveller, admired Chandni Chowk, particularly its large inn (caravanserai). The fabled Chandni Chowk—which was commissioned in 1650 by Princess Jahanara Begum upon her father Shah Jahan’s vision of a “moonlit square”—was once bisected by a canal that reflected silver light. Hence its name (chandni meaning “moonlight”).
Today, it stands as a ruinous testament to a past of highs and lows and houses one of the largest markets in its battered buildings. In terms of heritage, it doesn’t get better than this in Delhi.
Chandni Chowk emerged as the commercial nucleus of Shahjahanabad (Old Delhi), spanned by 1,560 shops across a half-moon street and original canal system. It witnessed imperial processions during the 1903 Delhi Durbar and housed architectural legacies such as the Ghantaghar clock tower (erected in the 1870s), Delhi Town Hall, and the resplendent Red Fort and Jama Masjid at opposite ends. While the canal has vanished, its memory lingers in the slightly curved layout of the marketplace, still referred to as “Silver Street.”
Around Chandni Chowk, your usual journey begins at the Red Fort, walking through its grand Lahori Gate before stepping into the buzz of Chandni Chowk Bazaar. For many folks who frequent the street, its food—especially breakfast—is taken in some regard. The lane called Paranthe Wali Gali is the precursor of this renown.
Duck through Paranthe Wali Gali, famed since the late 19th century for delivering hearty parathas to Delhiites, and sample cooling faloodas, chaats, and fragrant jalebis.
Browse beyond the main bazaar to uncover Urdu Bazaar’s rare books in shops on their last legs, Khari Baoli’s spice empire, and Mehar Chand & Sons’ aromatic teas.
History and faith converge along the lanes: Gauri Shankar Temple, Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir (with its pigeon rescue centre), and dozens of mosques coexist in close proximity.
Architectural treasures peek through mukhtas (havelis) such as Mirza Ghalib’s erstwhile home and the restored Haveli Dharampura; their hidden courtyards hint at a forgotten colonial aristocracy.
Chandni Chowk is a living, breathing culinary hotspot. In Gali Paranthe Wali you’ll find aloo, paneer, and rabri-stuffed parathas cooked in clarified butter; nearby, at Ghantewala (est. 1790), you could once taste royal sohan halwa until its 2015 closure.
Other street treats include kachori sabzi at Pandit Ji ka Dhaba, samosas at Natraj Dahi Bhalle, and the famed jalebis of Old Famous Jalebi Wala.
For richer fare, head into Karim’s or Jama Masjid’s 150-year-old eateries serving Mughal-style biryanis and kebabs simmered in tandoors passed down for generations. For more detailed information on the culinary scene of the place, jump to this article.
Chandni Chowk’s markets offer more than souvenirs. Khari Baoli, Asia’s largest spice market, is an essential stop for spices, nuts, teas, and dried fruits. The marketplace that dealt in the trade of whole spices attracted a plethora of customers from nearby regions such as Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, and Jammu and Kashmir.
Further, at Mehar Chand & Sons, connoisseurs savour custom-blended teas sourced from across India. Treasure-hunters can explore the narrow alleys of Church Bazaar and Dariba Kalan for traditional jewellery. Urban explorers and literary enthusiasts will enjoy the Urdu Bazar and Nayi Sadak lanes, known for rare books, vintage vinyl and Ghalib-era manuscripts.
In addition to all this, the place also hides away the curious Camera Wali Gali where you can find cameras of all kinds and even get your reel photos developed if you’re into it.
It is advised to dress modestly when visiting temples, gurudwaras or mosques, so large in number around Chandni Chowk.
Bargain with respect—vendors expect friendly negotiation. Wear comfortable shoes to traverse uneven roads.
Carry bottled water, umbrellas, battery fans and snacks if walking long stretches as it can get really hot, especially during the summers.
Ask permission before photographing religious spaces or vendors—they often welcome respectful requests.
Pickpocketing is rare but possible—keep your belongings secured and your eyes peeled on the precious assortments.
Visit early in the day, the earlier the better, preferably between 9 AM and noon, when air is cooler and merchants display their stalls in full glory. The market closes late, around 8 PM, but food vendors often stay open longer.
Festivals such as Ramzan and Diwali see Chandni Chowk transformed by thousands of lights and diyas and coloured lanterns, briefly returning to its moonlit roots.
As the area is vulnerable to heavy congestion, navigation is best done on foot, weaving through pedestrian-only bazaars.
Nevertheless, for quicker transport, traditional e-rickshaws and cycle rickshaws offer a nostalgic ride. Watch the chaotic ballet of motorbikes, handcarts and pedestrians—each weaving indiscriminately in the crowded lanes.
A metro stop at Chandni Chowk (Yellow Line) and proximity to New Delhi and Old Delhi railway stations make it highly accessible.
