Goa's 105-km-long coastline is an almost contiguous stretch of beach, interrupted occasionally by tree-covered cliffs that reach out to kiss the sea. While the state's lush forested interiors have in recent years found a dedicated set of devotees, most visitors still come to Goa for its golden sand and deep blue waters. Yet each of Goa's nearly 33 beaches is distinct, and it is quite possible to arrive at one expecting peace and quiet only to find yourself in the middle of a raucous party. This December, I travelled from the southernmost beach of Goa to the northernmost, covering a full 27 of them—sampling beach food, mingling with hippies, and putting together the Goa beach guide you’ve always wanted.
When I visited Palolem in August, just one beachside guesthouse was open on this lovely crescent-shaped beach, and there were exactly two other tourists. Dogs yapped on the sand, cows lounged around, and a handful of locals sat watching me. This time, I found a string of beach shacks and huts hugging the outer edge of the shore. At night, candlelit tables spilled out onto the sand. Tourists sat alone in silence, watching the waves, or lounged in small groups, talking quietly. There are live music performances, often by travellers who move from beach to beach, earning their stay by performing at these shacks.
The huts at Palolem, starting as low as INR 400 for basic single-room stays with common showers and toilets, are mostly flimsy, and the food is unremarkable. In the morning, the tables on the sand vanish to make way for motorised fishermen’s boats—not for fishing, but for taking tourists on dolphin-spotting rides (from INR 150). Santosh Pagi (contact: 98812 99998) is one of many boat operators offering rides into the sunrise or sunset.
Palolem is the southernmost of Goa’s “developed” beaches and makes a good base for exploring the quieter stretches further south, such as Polem, close to the Goa–Karnataka border. I visited this short beach, framed by two low cliffs, early one morning as the village—hidden among palm trees at the edge of the sand—slowly stirred awake. A lone boat was out at sea, and an old woman sat cleaning wooden boards, waiting for the day’s catch to arrive. I stumbled upon a small teashop with a rear room sometimes let out to tourists (INR 200; contact: 0832-2640145). The owner, Laxman, spoke of plans to start boat trips in April to a nearby island. For now, the only sounds here are the cawing of crows and the whisper of the sea.
About halfway between Palolem and Polem lies Galgibaga, one of Goa’s two turtle nesting sites. There are no tourist facilities here, but the beach is clean, long, and serene. For a bit more action, head to Palolem’s sister beach, Patnem. The beach huts here are fewer than at Palolem but sturdier. Patnem also offers some water sports—kayaks can be hired by the hour at Tantra Café (from INR 150; contact: 9923488491), or you could go sailing with an instructor on a catamaran (from INR 750).
Roughly 10 km north of Palolem lies Agonda. On the road parallel to the beach are Dunhill Beach Resort and Dercy’s Hotel. On the beach itself are a few sturdy huts, each cordoned off by wooden fencing. The best of the lot is Mahanamahnas (from INR 1,000; 264-7864; agondabeach.com). The double-storeyed white-and-blue huts—called “tree houses” for some reason—have a hall and wash area on the ground floor and a sleeping area on the first. The large balconies, strewn with hammocks and chairs, are particularly inviting. Few tourists visit this three-kilometre-long beach, and those who do usually come seeking solitude.
Further north is Cola. To get there, you drive down a dirt track that drops sharply towards the sea. After this spine-cracking ride, walk a few minutes to reach a secluded cove with a strip of beach. You could spend days and nights here, almost undisturbed, contemplating the meaning of life. The Blue Lagoon Paradise Resort (INR 1,000 for tents, INR 800 for huts; 264-7842) is Cola’s only accommodation. More camp than resort, it sits just above the beach.
Colva, just 6km from Margao, is a bustling town lined with hotels, restaurants, and chic stores. The beach here is classic India—crowded, lively, and full of families. You’ll see honeymooners strolling hand-in-hand, children racing along the sand, grandparents lounging in the shade, and the occasional boisterous group of young men. Give the latter a wide berth, and you’ll find Colva to be great fun—especially if you’re into water sports.
This is one of Goa’s best beaches for adrenaline on the water, offering parasailing, water-scooter rides, banana-boat trips, motorboat rides, and speedboat runs, starting from ₹400 per person. Late afternoon to early evening is the ideal time, especially if you can watch the sun dip below the horizon while suspended from a parachute behind a zigzagging speedboat.
There are no beach huts at Colva, but several hotels are close by. Longuinhos (₹4,000 doubles; longuinhosgoa.com) is among the better options, while Vailankanni Cottages (₹500; 2788584) offers simple but clean rooms. The road to the beach is lined with restaurants, many featuring live bands and buzzing crowds, but the best seafood is served in the beach shacks—don’t miss the Goan fish curry rice.
Colva, Sernabatim, and Benaulim together form a single, sweeping stretch of sand, each with its own entry point and character. Colva is the star attraction, buzzing with activity, while Benaulim and Sernabatim play the quieter supporting roles. At Benaulim’s southern end, the luxurious Taj Exotica keeps watch over the shoreline, while the main stretch is dotted with a few inviting shacks. Among them, Pedro’s and Johncy’s are local favourites—Pedro’s (9822389177) also offers boat rides for those eager to head out to sea. Sernabatim, tucked in between, is the most peaceful of the three, perfect for those seeking a slower pace.
There are no beach shacks here—just a lone teashop run by a Kannadiga serving up fresh Malabari parottas for breakfast. For a stay right on the sand, check into Furtado’s Beach House (from ₹1,500).
Calangute (48 km from Dabolim Airport) in North Goa is much like Colva in the south—only far more bustling. Large families shriek with delight in the surf, and parasailing, water scooters, and motorboat rides keep the shoreline lively. Beach shacks dish out a familiar mix of North Indian, Continental, Chinese, and Goan fare. Just north lies Baga, once a sleepy backwater but now buzzing day and night. The beach, which ends at the Baga River, has grown crowded, with over-tourism taking its toll. By day, families flock to the water rides; by night, the shacks overflow with revellers. Beyond the sand, the streets thrum with designer boutiques, restaurants, and nightclubs—Tito’s and Café Mambo remain as vibrant as ever. Nearby, Arpora hosts the Saturday Night Market, often said to outshine Anjuna’s famous Wednesday flea market. Accommodation here spans budget rooms in local homes (from ₹500; ask at the shacks) to a plethora of resorts, villas, and homestays.
Just south of Calangute lie Candolim and Sinquerim. Candolim’s long beach hums with shacks and tourists, while Sinquerim—once wide and sandy—has now almost vanished to the sea. Overlooking it are the Taj Aguada and Holiday Village resorts. Water-scooter rides (from ₹200) remain a popular draw. On the road to Sinquerim, the old-world Ludovici Tourist Home offers a nostalgic stay in a villa set amid a lush garden. Its four large, airy rooms (₹840 with breakfast) are a charming throwback to a slower Goa.
North of Baga lie Anjuna and Vagator, once legendary backpacker haunts where dreadlocks, beach parties, and free spirits defined the vibe. Today, both wear a slightly jaded air, though they still cling to their “party capital” tag—albeit with music winding down by 10.30 pm. The road to Anjuna beach is lined with stalls selling junk jewellery, psychedelic T-shirts, and overpriced mirror-work cushion covers, alongside budget guesthouses. In season, Curly’s Bar at Anjuna’s south end hosts parties, while Paradiso nightclub perches dramatically atop a cliff nearby. Vagator’s scene includes Boom Shankar for party info and Nine Bar, a trance-lover’s perch above the beach.
The newer wave of hippies has migrated further north to Arambol, with its quieter neighbours—Mandrem, Ashwem, and Morjim, the latter a turtle-nesting site. Here, simple beach huts and guesthouses abound. Ashwem’s Rock Bite Huts and Restaurant (₹1,000 in peak season) offers good huts right on the sand.
Arambol is a long-time favourite with Israelis on their post-draft break, many of whom stay for months. The village lanes brim with dreadlock-fixing stalls, internet cafés sporting Hebrew keyboards, and a string of open-air eateries dishing up Israeli, Bulgarian, and assorted European fare. Accommodation here is as basic—and budget-friendly—as it gets: beach huts from ₹300 in peak season, most without attached baths. The vibe is unhurried, the music is never far away, and casual jam sessions have a habit of evolving into all-night beach parties.
Querim, or Keri, is Goa’s northernmost beach—a serene stretch just steps from the historic Tiracol Fort. Far from the party circuit, it remains blissfully untouched, with few visitors venturing this far north. The beach has a steep gradient, making the tides tricky for the unprepared, but its tranquillity is unmatched. Stay options are simple and local: village homes rent out rooms from ₹200, while entire houses can be had for about ₹15,000 a month.
Cavelossim, Mobor, Rajbagh, Majorda, Utorda, and Varca are South Goa’s resort beaches—each beautiful, yet largely dominated by five-star properties. Unless you’re checked into one of these luxury stays, there’s little to keep you here for long.
For something more rustic, head to Velsao, just south of Vasco and 4 km from Verna. This “undeveloped” beach has only a couple of sand-floored shacks and the morning bustle of fishing boats bringing in the day’s catch. The sleepy, storybook village is perfect for a stroll. Stay options are limited to the Horizon Beach Resort (from ₹2,500).
Closer to the cities, Bogmalo and Miramar are Vasco’s and Panaji’s respective beaches. Both are pretty, though best visited if you’re staying nearby. Bogmalo has more life, with a few beachside restaurants—don’t miss the legendary Joet’s (2538072). It’s also a hub for diving, home to Goa Diving (2538204; www.goadiving.com), while Barracuda Diving (6656294; www.barracudadiving.com) operates from Miramar.
Beach-hopping might sound tempting, but it often leads to nothing more than beach fatigue. The better plan? Pick one beach—no excuses about not knowing which—and settle in for a few days. Spend your mornings watching the sunrise from a sun bed on the sand, followed by a hearty choriz-pão breakfast. Lose yourself in a good book, then, as evening falls, take a fishing boat out to watch the sun dip into the horizon. End the day with a comforting plate of fish curry rice at a beach shack, then fall asleep knowing another sunrise awaits tomorrow.
Stay in a Beach Hut for the ultimate coastal experience. There’s usually no need to book in advance—except during year-end or the monsoon peak—since you can find plenty of options on arrival. Simply stroll along your chosen beach, check out a few huts, and negotiate; most owners offer better rates for longer stays. Agonda has some of the most charming and well-kept shacks, while Arambol is where you’ll find the budget-friendly bargains.
Eat at Beach Shacks for affordable, hearty meals. The seafood here is often outstanding, and you can’t go wrong by sticking to traditional Goan dishes for the freshest, most flavourful experience.
Know the Rates: In Goa, many places have two tariffs—one for foreigners and a lower one for Indians. There’s no bias in this; stall owners and operators are generally welcoming to Indian visitors and often cheerfully lower rates. Just remember—bargaining is part of the game.
Which beaches should I visit on my first Goa trip?
First-timers should explore Baga for nightlife, Palolem for tranquillity, and Anjuna for its bohemian vibe.
When is the best time for a Goa trip to enjoy the beaches?
November to February offers pleasant weather, perfect for beach activities.
Are there budget-friendly beaches in Goa?
Yes, beaches like Arambol and Vagator are budget-friendly with affordable stays and food.
Can I enjoy water sports during my Goa trip?
Absolutely—Baga, Calangute, and Candolim are great for parasailing, jet skiing, and banana boat rides.
Which is better for a Goa trip—North Goa or South Goa beaches?
North Goa is lively and party-centric, while South Goa offers peaceful, scenic beaches.
Note: This story was first published in July 2014 and has been republished for your reading. Some details may have changed since its original publication.
