It was getting bone-chillingly cold—the sun had set, taking its warmth with it, and the wind had picked up. It's surprising how the temperature can suddenly drop at dusk when one is at 3,500 msl. Yet we stayed put at our post next to the Mushkoh river, peering up the hillsides of Ladakh, our host confident that we would spot what we'd come looking for. Just as we were about to give up, a black speck some 500 metres above us moved, and our host quickly set up his spotting scope. My very first sighting of a Himalayan brown bear!
We were in Mushkoh village, in the Drass district of Kargil in Ladakh, in late April this year. In the region for some research, our team from Kalpavriksh had decided to take a break and try our luck with bear sighting. We'd been told that Mushkoh was the best place to spot the Himalayan brown bear, and the person who could almost guarantee a sighting was Ghulam Hasan.
We got to Ghulambhai's place by late afternoon, and it was still sunny when, after a hot cup of kahwa chai, we set off on the road running between the mountain ranges within which the village is tucked. We noticed a couple of signboards along the way, mentioning the area's wildlife and advising visitors on responsible behaviour. Ghulambhai pointed ahead of us and said "Tiger Hill is just beyond that hill", and we realised with a small shiver how close we were to where India and Pakistani forces fought the so-called Kargil War in 1999 (fortunately, we did not know that the area would erupt into violence just 10 days after our visit!). A herd of Ibex was almost immediately visible, but the bear took its time appearing. We scrambled up the hillside for a closer look, breathing heavily in the thin atmosphere. After half an hour of waiting in anticipation, but in vain, for the bear to come further down, we reluctantly headed back as darkness began to set in, not to mention the cold!
Back at Ghulambhai's house, black tea warming our bodies, he told us that we would have a better sighting the next morning. Meanwhile, as we waited for dinner, he told us about himself and the Border View Homestay he and his family run. They had come to Mushkoh valley from Gurez in Kashmir several generations back and settled here. Primarily into farming, they had been seeing visitors coming to see bears, or for the summer carpet of wild lilies and other flowers that the valley is famous for. Ghulambhai was encouraged by Dr. Mohammad Deen of the Ladakh Environment and Health Organisation (LEHO) to set up a homestay, since visitors had very few places to stay. At that point, he was already constructing a second floor in his house, so he decided to dedicate a few rooms to tourists. The homestay began in June 2024. He and his wife, Fatima Bano, were supported by LEHO. He has also received informal orientation to nature guiding while working as a wildlife porter with Roots Ladakh, a local responsible tourism company set up by wildlife enthusiast Muzammil Hussain. The Himalayan Brown Bear Trust, another organisation founded by Muzammil, donated the binoculars and a spotting scope he now uses; this Trust and other organisations have put up the wildlife awareness boards we saw on the road. Ghulambhai is due to receive more formal nature guide training by the Trust this year.
As we were chatting, Fatimaji appeared, good-humouredly scolding Ghulambhai for keeping us hungry! Dinner had been laid, and we feasted on the tasty rice-dal-sabji (rice with lentils and vegetables) typical of this mountainous area. Tired from our journey and the walking and climbing, we gladly climbed into the double-razais laid out for us. It was one of those nights when one drifts off into sleep with the pleasant anticipation of an exciting morning ahead.
At 5.30 am, we headed out again; surprisingly, it was not as cold as expected. Dawn was breaking, and the valley with Mushkoh river snaking through the mountains was breathtakingly beautiful. This time we walked down the road toward Drass, the region's headquarters. Magpies and carrion crows protested noisily at being disturbed during their breakfast forays into agricultural fields, and again, we saw Ibex high up on the hillside. Then, after about an hour of searching, Ghulambhai called us excitedly—he'd seen a group of three bears! Try as we might, though, we could not see them even with binoculars, till he set up the spotting scope. A mother with two grown-up cubs, he said; we watched as they indulged in digging, possibly looking for tasty tubers. As the sun came up, they settled into what looked like a depression, soon appearing like just a furry brown lump. Ghulambhai said they'd settled in to escape the day's heat, so we may as well head home.
Back in the homestay, we got more details of his venture. He was not yet advertising it on any site, but he was getting good word-of-mouth publicity from LEHO and Muzammil. It was, in fact, Muzammil who gave us Ghulambhai's contact information. In the one year since the homestay was set up (effectively, about six months of it, since in peak winter there are almost no visitors), they had received about 50–60 visitors. Tourists are coming not only for bears and other wildlife, but also wild flowers, especially tulips, that carpet the valley in June–July.
Non-agricultural occupations (army and government service, labour, commerce, tourism) are, according to Ghulambhai, becoming more important, especially since 1999, when the war led to a severe decline in livestock populations, and as younger generations are less inclined to do heavy agricultural work. On our walks, we noticed a couple of other homestays and were told that there are indeed more supported by LEHO and the tourism and wildlife departments to boost livelihood through tourism.
Bear presence around the village has reportedly increased in the last few years, though, according to Muzammil, numbers are steady. Perhaps there is more active observation. I asked if villagers were scared; Ghulambhai said there had not been any incidence of bears attacking people, and generally, it was easy to drive them away if they came too close to the village. In earlier times, bears would occasionally kill livestock, but since then, almost no one has kept small animals (goats, sheep), so this was no longer an issue. Nevertheless, there was some fear, given the sheer size of the animal. He hoped that with increasing tourism income, villagers would see bear presence as an advantage rather than a nuisance. Muzammil says that retaliatory killing has already gone down, due to awareness programmes by his group and others, and army presence.
Back at the homestay, we packed for an early departure, as we had meetings in Kargil. But the famous Kashmiri–Kargili mehmannawazi (hospitality) would not let us leave without having a hearty breakfast and more chai. It seems that even the valley's bears would not let us depart without making another appearance; as we left the village, I glanced up to where we'd seen the family settling into their little burrow, and to my delight, saw that they were up and about, foraging on the hillside. We could not possibly leave, then, without spending another half hour with them. This time, our binoculars provided a good enough view, and I was perched on the car's roof to try to get some pictures. As the family moved further and vanished behind a rocky outcrop, we returned, feeling blessed by the wonders of nature and the hospitality of the valley's people.
How to Reach: Mushkoh village is about 10 km from Drass town and about 70 km (less than two hours) from Kargil. Drass is on the Kargil–Srinagar highway, which provides good road connectivity, though unseasonal snowfall can sometimes cause blockages.
Where to Stay: Border View Homestay has two double rooms and charges ₹2,000 per person per night, including food. Ghulambhai's nature guiding costs ₹1,500 per trip.
Best Time to Visit: Late April to early October for bear sightings. For wildflowers like tulips, plan your visit between June and July.
Contact:
Ghulam Hasan – 9906445517
Mushkoh is located in the Drass sector of Kargil district in Ladakh, around 10 km from Drass town and 70 km from Kargil.
The region is famous for Himalayan brown bears, ibex, and various alpine birds like magpies and crows.
Late April to early October is ideal for spotting brown bears. Wildflower enthusiasts should visit between June and July.
Yes, though close to the Line of Control, it is generally safe. Always check current advisories before visiting remote areas in Ladakh.
The homestay charges ₹2,000 per person per night including meals. Nature guiding services are offered at ₹1,500 per trip.
