On a good morning at Wilpattu, a leopard lies along a branch above a sand-rimmed lake, its tail hanging loose as it watches a single jeep that has been idling for twenty minutes. There is no queue behind it. Anyone who has waited in line for a tiger at Ranthambore or Tadoba will understand how thrilling that is. This is Sri Lanka’s northwest, and it is shaping up as one of the island’s most rewarding wildlife journeys: leopard, elephant and sloth bear in the forest, followed by dolphins and whales at sea, in one unhurried trip that some now call Sri Lanka’s own Big Five.



